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I am up for pads now, I have searched but I want local guys opinion on this, what is good for my 33, mostly street and some track stuff. What are some expericances you guys have had. Thanks. oh cost and where can I get them

I went looking a bit today and noone was any help, and i need them asap.

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Stevie, Advance or Ultimates?

I have heard some conflicting advice in regards to ultimates. Some say they suck at the track, yet others with similar cars and setups said they were fine at the track.

ATM, I'm running Ultimates but they are almost worn and I have some RB74s on the way. The ultimates have been excellent on the street, a little noisy and dusty but saved me from a few accidents due to Canberra's moronic drivers. I will let you know how the rb74s are as I ordered them last week so they should be arriving mon/tues. Oh, and the reason I went for the rb74s is because I'm considering going to a track day (or two) at wakefield with some friends. Just need to get the boost turned down a little.

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Having tried this, there isn't really such a thing as a good street/track pad... not at a decent price anyway.

Street compounds are not meant to handle continuous high temps (500C+), so are O.K. for supersprint events (2-3 laps), but at an open practise day they start to fall apart if you are running 5-10 lap sessions. I've had Bendix, Ferodo and Pagid street pads start to break up around the edges, and when they cool down the ends of the pads pull away from the backing plate.

Pads which will survive multiple laps are usually very hard on the discs at low temperatures - as in destroy the discs in a couple of days of street driving. The only exception to this that I know of are the ceramic based pads which are not hard on the discs, but have a good temperature range. I priced a set of Pagid Motorsport pads in '99, but it was going to cost me around $430 (fronts only). You might be able to get some suitable pads in a carbon metallic - not something I looked into.

Try ringing Race Brakes in Melbourne. They might have some suggestions on a good dual-purpose pad which won't eat the disc.

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Well I've used the ultimates for heaps of track work, up to 20min sessions.

As long as the rest of your brake system is working OK you won't have a problem.

But you definately need good quality brake fluid, changed every 12 months. This will make the most difference to pedal feel.

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Yep, 1.10 around wakefield on ultimates, .52 at Oran Park South, 1.52 at eastern creek both in a pretty stock r33 gtst. I personally find Eastern Creek to be hardest on them with the big stops at turn 2 and 9.

Suspension and tyre quality really affect the amount your brakes get knocked around, higher corner speed = less braking required.

ALso, be *very*careful using race style pads on the street. Whatever you use *must* have a heat range from 0 since you don't always get a chance to warm pads on the street before you need them :D

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I ended up with a set of Comp9's (QFM) for Wakefield. Too hard for street, but they actually worked better cold than my old regular street pads (QFM "SuperX" compond).

I just looked up the specs of the Ultimates on the Bendix site - they never had anything like that when I was still going to the track! (pre children). 550C temp range!

race_snooze - I changed my mind - try the Ultimates!

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race_snooze - I changed my mind - try the Ultimates!

Thanks guys, I have utimates in it now I think. very dusty, and the guy before me has had the car on the track once or twice. Now where can i get some from 2morrow but. I dont want to order them and wait, I have about 5mm left on them and the wear tab is sounding and shiting me. I just found out as well I need to have the disks machiened **** more money, might think aobut some cross drill slotted stuff

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why do you NEED to have the disks machine i generally get them done if the disc itself has a fair few decent indents/wear marks on them or if its glazed at all but generally it isnt required. Also gl finding them tomorrow i was ringing around for a set and couldnt find any though they can have them ordered in for next day delivery. Try maybe BBS they might have some

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yea if they have a lip take it to a brake place again not trying to promote them but i took mine to BBS in belconnen and they did a great job. Get them to measure the disc (they will probably do it anyways) they will then check the magic book and tell you if their is enough mm left. If its close personally i would just go buy some DBA 4000 slotted rotors like me :) and put your old ones up here in the for sale section. anyways gl shaun let us know what you decide to do. also my discs were about $25 each to get machined from memory (again note this was on the SSS pulsar so they were a little smaller). :D

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Get em machined no matter what.

As i have done my Apprentice mechanic for 2yrs, we had always machined the discs.

If you dont, they will end up squeking. I normally get a mate to come round and machine them for me at home... charges me $50-60 and then you do the rest yourself.

Best way to go.

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The pads I use on the 200 are Ferodo DS-2500's and they are great out at the track, have never had fade problems after some hard laps. They arent cheap (around $250 a set) but if you intend on taking your car to the track I would definately recommend them and know of a local guy who can get them in at pretty reasonable prices. They can be a little noisy around town but I can live with that knowing how good they are when I want to get adventurous (on the track).

With the disc machining, you can get them machined while they are still on the car (I spent a little bit of time helping out a mobile company years ago). Depending on how bad they are you may need new discs though :) Good excuse to upgrade :P

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