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in the engine bay there is a fuse you can take out marked 4wd fuse, or under your dash i think its the top left or top right one, you can try by removing thefuse while the car is on, it will bring up the 4wd light, negative aspect is you will destroy a lot of rubber ripping hellies.

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hahaha glazed donuts!

i am told that you should take out the front driveshaft as to not damage the clutch pack. On street its fine cos the front wheels are in motion but on a 2wd dyno, the fronts are stationery.

There is a single power wire (according to the wiring diagram) that runs to the motor which pressurises the 4wd clutch pack. Putting this through a switch should provide an easy on/off. Unfortuantley last tme I just found the wire for the 4wd light....and have been too lazy to fix it. When I get it back I might try again.

  • 4 months later...
Guest DIRTgarage
At which end? The front diff (sump) or the transfer case? Isn't the flange on the front diff? If you disconnect there, won't the shaft turn and hit the bottom of the car?

Just remove the four bolts in the front of the shaft and lift it out....the socket it fits in is sealed from the transfer case...i.e. no oil/fluid will escape.

all too much effort removing front drive shaft...

just pull the 4wd fuse in the engine bay on a 32 gtr...

on 33 and 34 gtr s pull fuse and then crack the bleeder nipple on the transfer case to release the presure in the line which 33 & 34 s keep pressure in even when in 2wd mode.

hope this helps.

Yeah but all that means a pinch of poop to me as I am a noob at this whole "knowing mechanical parts" thing ;)

Just pulling a plug and pumping the brake is just about the limit of my minds ability :thumbsup:.

So question is which way is the correct way, Jay's pulling plug and pumping brake or Mark's pull fuse, crack bleeder nipple and release pressure?

And again with both methods, what is the correct proceedure for re-instating 4wd mode?

Thanks!

  • 1 month later...

Hiyas,

Just wanting to see if anyone had an update on the situation. Obviously the computer method sounds easiest but has anyone actually used it on the dyno?? any potential for damage, no chance of fronts engaging, etc?

Secondly just wondering if someone could step me through slowly the method to disconnect the front driveshaft (ie, raise on hoist, etc). Maybe deservers a FAQ.

Cheers,

Penfold

Just undo the 4 bolts connecting the front shaft to the transfer case, remove shaft and dyno away!

No need to pull fuses, no need to bleed stuff. It's a very simply 3 minute operation. You don't need to be a rocket scientist to do this.

This topic comes up every couple months now. Can a mod PLEASE sticky this thread before another pops up in the near future.

  • 2 weeks later...

Cool,

So I check it out. Just undo the 4 bolts from the front of the driveshaft (connecting to the front diff) and it should just pull out from the socket where it conect the transfer case. Looks good.

But, I just wanted to check how long the can be driven like this. Is there any potential for damage aside from the possibility of dirt/rocks accumulating in the sockets, etc. So say a 20 minute drive to dyno after hoist would be fine & then 20 minutes back to put driveshaft in should be fine.

I'll post a pic of driveshaft later & also when i do it a few shots of it coming out.

I've pulled the fuse in my dash a couple of times to finish off my rears before I get new rubber and have noticed the air-con doesn't work. Fan works fine but just not cooling down?? I wouldn't have thought these are interconnected. Strange....

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