Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok I have some more questions for you guys, just to get everything cleared up, becuase I keep hearing different things from a bunch of knowledgable people. Would rather here it from those that have done this before. I am going to be taking the block to the machine shop and will be ordering my RB26 rods this week.

I am going to be putting some RB26 rods in my SII RB25DET, so here are the questions I have for you guys:

1.I have been told from some that these will fit right in with no modification or grinding down and then from others I have been told that the rods are not a perfect fit and that you will have to grind away the rod slightly. Does anyone know which is true?

2. Do all (R32-R34) RB26 rods fit the same?....are they all the same?

3. Doing RB26 rods in my RB25, should I get the RB25 Wiseco's or the RB26 Wiseco's?....or are they all identical?

***(becuase from what I know Wiseco makes 86.5 and 87mm in the RB25's, but with the RB26 they only make the 87mm......that would creat a problem, becuase I do not want that low of a compression ratio...which from my knowledge...doing Wiseco 87mm for the RB and running a 1.2mm head gasket will creat a 7.9:1 compression ratio (which I am wanting more of a 8.3:1- 8.5:1 ratio))

It depends on the RB26 Rods you are talking about, Are you doing stock Rb26 Rods or Forged rb26 Rods?

I know that Stock rb26 rods fit, with out any problems and Crower Forged Rb26 Rods fit with out any problems into an Rb25 Block, You have to make sure you get stock rb25 bearings though.

If you don't want to change your compression to much, then don't go 87mm bore. Go either standard bore size if you can find forged pistons to suit or just go .20thou over. And with a 1.2mm head gasket you will still be around the 8:5 to 8:3 compression region.

I personally would go arias forged (stock Replacement) pisons, as they are identical to stock in terms of dish wisco pistons. Wich will have an impact on compression.

You also have to look at other factors, Eg what size turbo you are bolting on and how much boost you want to run, to be able to determine the best size head gasket or the best suited bore size.

I am talking about stock RB26 rods. So it doesn't matter what gen I get (R32-R34) RB26 rods...they should all work fine in my SII RB25DET?

I am going to most likely going to have to deck the block and mill the head a good .5-.8mm, to get that compression up. Wiseco's make some great pistons for the money, the only down side is that for some reason they make it dished which will throw it at a 7.9:1 c/r. Decking the block and milling the head down a little should put me around 8.5:1+.

I would go to another piston, but the Wiseco's are $650 (US currancy) and after that comes the CP which runs $780, but I have heard more positive feedback from Wiseco then CP.

For the turbo I am going to be running a T61 with a .83 a/r. Is capable of 700hp, so the top end is not going to be the problem. I am going to have to make up for the lower end power, which I am going to be making custom intake manifold which will have some long runners and velocity stacks...to make as much velocity as I can to make some torque for the lower end.

I am talking about stock RB26 rods. So it doesn't matter what gen I get (R32-R34) RB26 rods...they should all work fine in my SII RB25DET?

For the turbo I am going to be running a T61 with a .83 a/r. Is capable of 700hp, so the top end is not going to be the problem. I am going to have to make up for the lower end power, which I am going to be making custom intake manifold which will have some long runners and velocity stacks...to make as much velocity as I can to make some torque for the lower end.

I'm not sure about the R32 or the R34, but I know that the R33 will fit fine; I haven't compared the R32 or R34 rods against the R33.

I would think that the R32 and the R33 should be identical But the R34 I'm not 100% sure on, Maby some one else could confirm that for me?

As for the head gasket, if you’re going to be running such a large turbo, I would be looking at a different size head gasket? perhaps 1.8mm ?

As you will probably be running around 20+ psi ?

I am talking about stock RB26 rods. So it doesn't matter what gen I get (R32-R34) RB26 rods...they should all work fine in my SII RB25DET?

they will indeed.

SPHYNX[x']aren't stock RB26 rods forged anyway? :S

Nope, dont think so.

Just a better grade than 25 ones. They are also bigger if you compare them side by side.

Lot meatier around the link points

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
    • Actually, I'd say all three are the automatic option. Just the different trim levels. The manual would be RSFS, no? 
×
×
  • Create New...