Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just thought I'd share my experience with 1.2bar on my HKS GT2535.... I couldn't run much boost before, ie 10psi max without it misfiring.

After replacing the coils with some better ones, I can now take it to 16psi easily. So much more power, and now it really makes me appreciate the HKS quality and response of this turbo. Absolutely remarkable. It went harder on just 10psi before, but now it's completely changed the way I feel about my car.

Anyway - in summary HKS GT2535 + Stainless Split Dump + New coils = Perfect match for the RB25 :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/65757-the-letterbox-magnet-has-a-new-life/
Share on other sites

Kym,

You still on your stock injectors? If so, be careful cause with that much boost, you're injectors are going to be maxxing out big time if you're on stockies. I don't run any more than a bar into my 2535 and that gets me dangerously close to 100% injector duty according to my PFC.

Glad you're enjoying it though, told you it was worth the $$ :)

Jas,

You'll get your stock cat back soon, f*cken pits failed me for a second time! *GRRR*

Dave,

Whoops didn't know about that - might keep it around 1bar then if that's so, either way it's yet to be tuned at CMP soon so that'll tell me what's going on :) and Yep, NOW i can enjoy this turbo to it's fullest potential :)

Brendan,

Standard S2 coils, ie, mine were well shagged out :P

Jason,

I'll post some up soon for ya

Kym,

You still on your stock injectors? If so, be careful cause with that much boost, you're injectors are going to be maxxing out big time if you're on stockies. I don't run any more than a bar into my 2535 and that gets me dangerously close to 100% injector duty according to my PFC.  

Glad you're enjoying it though, told you it was worth the $$ :)

Didnt SST pull much more HP out of the stock injectors in tristans motor because it has a wolf ecu??? I dont drive my skyline much anymore, its for sale, but i dont go much above 12psi and believe there still plenty of fuel in it (on the hyperdrive dyno the afc's were all good even at 1bar) *shrug* If i had another $5k, i'd do some head work, exhaust manifold, set of cams to try and bring boost on earlier and some bigger squirters too. Personally I have to say the td06 has to be another worthy turbo for the rb25det, mine has the largest exhaust housing but i reckon with a slightly smaller one, a decent exhaust manifold it'd be up there for response and top end power too. Pauls GT30 was pretty nice too.

Rob,

I dunno about anyone elses car or how anyone else tunes. All I can tell you that with mine, although my AFR remained perfect at 12:1 at 1 bar, my injector duty was like 98% according to my PFC. That to me reads that I shouldn't be pushing it any harder than that boost wise for risk of my injectors maxing out, my AFR leaning back out and my car detonating.

I hold no opinions in the way SST vs any other people tune, I don't know anything about Tristans car, I don't know anything about the Wolf vs the PFC cause i've only used the latter, I don't know anything about Kym's car or your car. My original comment is based purely on MY experiences with MY car.

I'll close by saying that given another $2K to spend on car (and i'm buying a house so i don't have that money at the moment), it'd go straight to injectors and another PFC tune @~1.4-1.6 bar and be the happiest camper around town.

Cheers!

:bs!:

Pull your head out. For all intents and purposes, all us RB25 boys(and girls) have roughly the same setup, with the only notable difference being our engine management and turbo. Those that are capable of reaching said horsepower usually all have CAI, regulator, bigger pump, bigger turbo, cooler, zorst, boost, ECU and cam gears give or take. Those that SAFELY make that horsepower, would ALL have bigger injectors, end of story. Sure, I'm not saying that he couldn't get there, son of rajab knows I could have got my tuner to just wind 1.6 bar into my turbo, cranked the rail pressure right up and nudged my power figure toward the quoted 400 you speak about but how long would that last? one run? two runs? one month?

I'm not having a pissing competition with anyone. All I know is that after shelling out thousands in an engine rebuild once due to ignorance, I don't want to be having another any time soon and therefore, my warning to Kym stands as far as i'm concerned. No i'm not a mechanic and i'm sure there are lots of workshops that have traded successfully for a lot of years and all that BS that we've all heard before.

Kym, if you're entering a pissing contest, ignore my warning and let them screw as much horsepower as they can possibly get out of your stock injectors. Bear in mind that spray patterns are effected once you crank rail pressure up. End of the day, it's your car and your money. Best of luck mate and I honestly mean that. For me, I'm happy to putt around on 12-14psi until I upgrade my injectors but that's just me.

/end rant

Dave,

Definitely not a pissing contest on my part, I don't give two hoots about peak power output or screwing as much horsepower as possible, Steve knows this too. I'm after clean usable response over the stock variants.

As for SAFE horsepower and recommendations, I'll leave that to my tuner's experience based on my CURRENT level of modifications.

Thanks for the advice as we pretty much have the same setup in terms of bolt-ons :D

You'll get your stock cat back soon, f*cken pits failed me for a second time! *GRRR*

and this Kym is why u get a chick to take the car over.... so much easier ;)

have gotten heaps of mates cars over and never a word.. apart from Mikes sil... that had issues :(

good to see ur car is working better ;)

-pie

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Fark what are the changes of that snapping like that, clean. Nek minnit, custom radiator goes in, with built in oil cooler like those discontinued PWR ones from yesterdeacades ago
    • I thought I'd do a write up on an auto transmission fluid change for a the nissan 7 speed Automatic. At some stage the genius engineers decided that the fluid in the trans was "for the life of the transmission", (which seems kind of self supporting to me) and removed the dip stick and fill tube (funnily enough there is still a casting for it). Anyway, for this job you do need 2 specialist tools in addition to regular hand tools, jack and good chassis stands. You need a way to pump fluid up to the transmission; I got one of these but there are plenty of other options: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/364584087070 Don't trust the generic listing though, it does not come with the required adapter for the Nissan 7 Speed. You need one of these, can't do the job without it: https://navarapart.com.au/product/genuine-nissan-patrol-y62-d23-np300-navara-re7-dipstick-fill-connector1 You need a heap of compatible transmission oil. Could be Nissan, could be anything else rated for Nissan Matic S. You need at least 10 litres, I had 15 to give it a better flush... Also, you need some biiig oil catch trays, at least one of these, or bigger if possible (volume was fine, size was very marginal): https://autobarn.com.au/ab/Autobarn-Category/Tools-%26-Garage/Specialty-Tools/Oil-Service/Garage-Tough-Oil-Drain-Pan-Black-16L---GT1068/p/TO03191 Finally, a measuring jug is very useful if your pump does not have volumes marked on it, I got a 6l one: https://www.repco.com.au/oils-fluids/fluid-accessories/measuring-jugs/penrite-measuring-jug-6l-pmj006/p/A5322648 Oh, and gloves.....this stuff is horrible (not as bad as diff oil, but getting there) ....First, jack up your car.....
    • So I mentioned the apprentice, @LachyK helped take the bonnet off. We just undid the nuts on the hinges and unclipped the gas struts, then pulled the bonnet back a little as the front was catching on the front bar.  I had a good look at everything today and have removed the rams, repaired/reset the hinges and bolted it back together like it never happened. I'll do a separate write up on the repair, and I also removed the poppers from the Fuga today too to save grief down the road.....as said above it is at least $5k to repair retail. I'm also happier about my ability to prepare a race car, and less happy about Nis-nault's engineering (I can hear @GTSBoy sAfrican Americaning) because the top hose of the radiator didn't slip off.......it snapped clean off. By practice I put the hose clamp hard up against the flare on a neck to make it least likely to ever move (thanks @Neil!). I guess that puts a little more pressure on the end of the pipe as it is further away from the rad, but still, that is pretty shit. I've put it back on for now as there was a fair bit of neck still there, but obviously there is no lip on the neck any more so I don't think I'll track it again until I have a new rad. Speaking of which....more research required. It looks like Koyo makes a standard size radiator in ally which I'll grab in the meantime, but I really want something thicker so might have to go custom in the medium term (ouch) Coolant still needs a refill and I have the pressure tester on it over night, but other than a wash down of the engine bay it seems alright. And @MBS206 noted something noisy on the front of the engine and I think I agree....time for a new accessory belt and tensioners I think.
    • our good friends at nismo make a diff for it, I have one (and a spare housing to put the centre in) on the way. https://www.nismo.co.jp/products/web_catalogue/lsd/mechanical_lsd_v37.html AMS also make a helical one, but I prefer mechanical for track use in 2wd (I do run a quaife in the front, but not rear of the R32)
×
×
  • Create New...