Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi All,

Just to give you a run down, i have been using this forum for a little while just reading posts etc, but i finally found the skyline i wanted and i have something to talk about, i use to own a R33 Series 1 93' non-turbo and sold that but I just bought myself an R33 Series 2 Turbo in black well i think it is, its a 95 model on the compliance plates, but it has Dual Airbags, and looks like a Series 2, apart from no ABS feature tho, but interior etc etc looks like a Series 2, I think it is a 96' but they stuffed up the compliance??, but apart from that, i have to ask if this is normal, i have been searching around for some answers but nothing really, i know that the stock boost guage is crap but as soon as i start the car up the guage goes upto -3.5 or near there and stays there is this normal? all ive got is an 3" Exhaust Cat Back, and when its boosting hits about +3.5, i know this is not in PSI but any help would be appreicated, ill post some pictures up soon!

Thanks!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/65760-just-bought-my-r33-gts-t-series-2/
Share on other sites

You could have a Series 1.5 there. do a search on this site and you will find out.

Your boost guage sounds about normal for a stocker. Ihat guage reads in some stupid units like "Hundreds of millimeters of mercury" Buy a real boost guage before you start doing anything to up the boost.

The stocker is a shocker!

Best mod you can do is to get a short piece of pipe and pull the two hoses off the boost control solenoid (just behind the air filter) and join the two hoses together. Gets rid of the Two stage boost and will give you about 7 or 8 PSI all the time. (That's about the limit you want to go to with stock intercooler but)

Really makes a difference. It's the best free horsepower you will ever get.

Hey,

Thanks for that, clear's up some of my concerns, im going to have to flush out the radiator on the car tho, it seems no one put any coolant in, or they did but they haven't changed it, its not too bad but looking like its getting abit rusty, hopefully it anit damaged or anything, i went and took a quick pic of the car also, so you can have a look, also i have an "Advanced Turbo Timer" i noticed it does not disable when i put the hand break down, i thought these things were meant to turn off so no one steals your car? that true?

Thanks

yeah you have a seires 2 on your hands..good work. Mine is complianced as 95 aswell??? but it is a series 2. Series 1.5 didnt have the whole series 2 front end, engine, interior, dual airbags etc

Hope u enjoy it

Yeh, thats what i thought too might be a late '95 eitherway, i just flushed the radiator 50/50 contains Ethylene Glycol 1060 grams per litre and mixed in demineralised water it seems to have only taken about 5 to 6 litres! thought it took something like 8.5 litres, i opened the bleed valve to allow all the air out of the system etc, also changed the oil the Mobil 10W-40 Synth S, so will see how we go, the only other problem i have is i think the Coil Packs or Spark Plugs require replacing as it seems the car is misfiring or when i try start it seems to struggle abit and turn off, then the next go its fine, this happend before the changeover of oil/coolant etc..

Very nice looking car, gotta love that front lip as well, don't see many getting around with that (at least, i don't in Canberra). Series II's look best in black, though my opinion may be slightly biased!

Have fun with her mate!

Noice, Noice.

Yeah, I got me a '95 plated Series II GTS-T too. Dual airbags, no ABS. (white with GTR rear wing). I got it checked out by the guys in the FAST thread - all seems 100% legit.

All the ABS R33's I drove had soggy, vague brake pedals, anyway - so I'm pretty stoked to have a non-ABS car ! ! !

I had my mod-list finalised a week after bought my new toy. Now I've chosen all my brands, specs etc except for switchable boost-control. any ideas?- just gotta sell my old car and I can order it all in from Japan - JOY ! !

Hi There,

I am planning to buy a Skyline. I never had a performance car so don’t have much idea about it. I am getting the following configuration

NISSAN SKYLINE GT ST AUTOMATIC R33, SERIES 1, TURBO

No of Cylinders: 6

Year: 1994

Speedo Reading: 60000 km

My search raised some question about the vehicle (which i am posting here) … It will be great if some can guide me ….

1. How good is the configuration of a beginner

2. How genuine is the configuration

3. Any drawbacks in the model

4. What price should it be...

Or if any one can direct me to ifo bank for this particular model..

cheers

raj

Drawbacks? Well you need deep pockets to run them when something goes wrong :P

Seriously, take a look at this thread about purchasing a Skyline. Gives you some good info that will help you out.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=35129

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
    • Heh. I copied the link to the video direct, instead of the thread I mentioned. But the video is the main value content anyway. Otherwise, yes, in Europe, surely you'd be expected to buy local. Being whichever flavour of Michelin, Continental or Pirelli suits your usage model.
×
×
  • Create New...