Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have one of these up for sale on the FOR SALE section as I have been told that they are really hard to drive if you have not driven manual before, but I've also been told that they are also top of the line clutches. Now i don't know whether i should leave it in the for sale section or whether i should keep it for personal use in the future? Whats your suggestions? I have not driven manual and have been told to start off with a standard heavy duty clutch. Do you think i could learn manual on the OS twin plate clutch? I drive daily by the way, heard it could be a bitch through traffic.

So from the aforementioned, what's your opinion on this clutch?

Cheerios

for those that dont know (such as myself :)), what makes them such a hassel to drive? is there a very short space between on/off as you press/depress the clutch? or more so difficult as it makes the pedal stiff and hard to press down on straining your leg?

i dont understand? :S

s.

i am not 100% sure as i have never own a twin or tripple plate clutch, but at the moment i have a brass button clutch (heavy duty styles) the petal is hard etc and if not taken off ride the car shakes like crazy.

anwayz my understanding is that a twin would be hard pedal and yes hurt ur legs :)

i am not 100% sure as i have never own a twin or tripple plate clutch, but at the moment i have a brass button clutch (heavy duty styles) the petal is hard etc and if not taken off ride the car shakes like crazy.

anwayz my understanding is that a twin would be hard pedal and yes hurt ur legs :)

Button clutches are either on or off, if you ride a button clutch the car will shake/shudder causing damage to the clutch.

Basically you have to spin the wheels on every take off to get a smooth take off.

I had a 5 button heavy duty clutch and I wore it out in about 6 months from improper use. :Bang:

If you have never driven a manual car before, the twin plate will be a bit hard to get used to, especially in daily driving.

I dont know first hand how the OS clutches are, but I have a HKS twin plate in mine and its not tooo bad, but it did take alot of getting used to. The pedal is extremely light, it just engages really harshly and if you dont have the revs up it will stall.

Id hang on to it, they are meant to be really good clutches, you just need to get used to it.

OS clutches are meant to be one of the better twin plates.... the HKS Twin plates are a pig to drive compared toe the OS ones.

It will be hard to drive compared to a stock clutch because it will be more on/off, you can still slip it. Its up to you, what kind of power will you be running in the near future?

If your only going to be running 150rwkw for a year or two, then its a bit of overkill/waste and you'd be better off selling it and buying something cheaper/easier to drive..

if your going to be running 300rwkw in the near future then keep it, it will come in good use and you'll learn how to drive it soon enough.

Thanks for your advice guys, well i dont plan to aim for the 250kw+ untill probably another year. As for now I just have an FMIC, full exhaust, bleed valve (running at 12psi) and pod and im getting a power fc soon so basically from what you guys have told me i don't think i will be needing this clutch. I'm also scared about ramming the car in front of me hehehehe

So I guess i'll leave it up for sale.

Thanks alot guys.

One more question though, would this clutch enable my car to pull harder as opposed to say a standard heavy duty or brass button clutch in a straight line race?

The short (and technically correct) answer to that is no.

........ however, if you are able to use it to shift quicker than there is a case that could be argued that the resulting quicker gear shifts meant you could go faster. Also if you're pulling enough power to make the stock clutch slip when you're taking off then there's also a case to be made that this clutch would help you get off the line quicker.

The first one is a flimsy case though, I think the different between organic/brass/double plate with a good driver behind it isn't much if any what-so-ever.

On the other hand I know I can clutch quicker in my flatmate's r32 with his organic than I can with my unknown clutch in my cefiro.

The second case I don't think will pose you too much problems as I think a generic type "heavy duty" will be able to take 200rwkw easily off the line so long as you're not dumping it really really hard, and if you do dump it that hard you're going to wheelspin anyway so.. ...

Why don't you just keep it till you get your car, drive it around for a while and see how you go? You can always sell it later it's not like the clutch is wearing down if it's sittin in your garage.

You could also keep it for a while untill you have sorted manual driving with a more user friendly clutch and then get along to a cruise in your state and get somebody to let you have a spin around a car park with a twin plate and decide if its for you or not.

Another side effect of some twin plates if they dont have dampers (does the OS?) is the loud rattle they make when the pedal is depressed. I have a twin and I cant stand the rattling.

Keep the twin plate!! Puck/brass button clutches they are all cops to drive, at least with a twin plate there is a little bit of give, i have an OS Giken twin plate in my car and its sensational, i wouldn't go back to a single ever!! Conversly i can jump into my mates R33 which has a Nismo twin plate in it and drive it like i own it, the clutch's are that easy to use!!

Like has been said, keep the twin plate, drive the car with what ever clutch is in there now (stock im assuming), learn how to drive a manual, then when the standard clutch starts slipping put the twin plate in there!!

my 33 had a brass button in it and i didnt really like it, lots of shuddering, my 34 has a OS giken twin plate, and i find it better and easier than the brass button, took a little bit of getting used to but once i did it was fine, as someone else said they are fairly light (lighter than brass button) but just engage like instantly, and if u dont have the revs up it will stall, but all in all they are good, and id keep it if i were you :rofl::P

sell it, start with a stock heavy duty, you dont need a twin plate at this stage anyway....although if you did want to use it (and it would be overkill) it wouldnt be as hard to use as you are probably thinking. You could get use to it....just means you'll either stall or spin the wheels alot. IMO though i stick to saying sell it, you dont need it for its purpose and it will only cause extra problems.

i have a OS giken triple plate and it is quite... direct. It is quite on/off but there is a tiny bit of slip there.

Im used to it but it failed pit inspection yesterday so will need to think of a solution. I might just take it to another one. The clutch is great when driving spiritedly, but during peak traffic etc if its your daily, its not good at all.

I had one in my rb20det. It was a single plate brass button OS Geiken with a OS Geiken Lightened flywheel as well. Awesome clutch, i used it for a daily driver and it worked your left leg but after a month of use it's nothing. They are a great clutch and i replaced mine with a heavy duty one i got for free, now im about to rebuild the OS Geiken one and will be throwing it back in soon.

I've gone through my fair share of clutches and the OS twin was one of the best I've used. Mine wore out pretty quickly though coz I used it at 3 different drag sessions with around the 400+rwkw mark and the clutch couldn't handle the slipping off the line to launch the car. The simple problem with it for me was that it heated up too quickly and began slipping.

On the street, it was awesome to use. Plenty of give and not like the HKS twins with the on/off feeling. The OS would slip nicely into gear off the line everytime.

As a new manual driver, my suggestion is to stick to the heavy duty single plate and learn to drive that first. Once you have that worked out, the twin is a natural progession. The procedure is the same, it's just that the clutch is heavier. If you don't intend on having more than 250+ rwkw for some time (12 months+), sell it now and get another one later.

Oh, and BTW, I love the rattling sound!! I'd take that noise over the BOV whooshing crud anyday.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So, that is it! It is a pretty expensive process with the ATF costing 50-100 per 5 litres, and a mechanic will probably charge plenty because they don't want to do it. Still, considering how dirty my fluid was at 120,000klm I think it would be worth doing more like every 80,000 to keep the trans happy, they are very expensive to replace. The job is not that hard if you have the specialist tools so you can save a bit of money and do it yourself!
    • OK, onto filling. So I don't really have any pics, but will describe the process as best I can. The USDM workshop manual also covers it from TM-285 onwards. First, make sure the drain plug (17mm) is snug. Not too tight yet because it is coming off again. Note it does have a copper washer that you could replace or anneal (heat up with a blow torch) to seal nicely. Remove the fill plug, which has an inhex (I think it was 6mm but didn't check). Then, screw in the fill fitting, making sure it has a suitable o-ring (mine came without but I think it is meant to be supplied). It is important that you only screw it in hand tight. I didn't get a good pic of it, but the fill plug leads to a tube about 70mm long inside the transmission. This sets the factory level for fluid in the trans (above the join line for the pan!) and will take about 3l to fill. You then need to connect your fluid pump to the fitting via a hose, and pump in whatever amount of fluid you removed (maybe 3 litres, in my case 7 litres). If you put in more than 3l, it will spill out when you remove the fitting, so do quickly and with a drain pan underneath. Once you have pumped in the required amount of clean ATF, you start the engine and run it for 3 minutes to let the fluid circulate. Don't run it longer and if possible check the fluid temp is under 40oC (Ecutek shows Auto Trans Fluid temp now, or you could use an infrared temp gun on the bottom of the pan). The manual stresses the bit about fluid temperature because it expands when hot an might result in an underfil. So from here, the factory manual says to do the "spill and fill" again, and I did. That is, put an oil pan under the drain plug and undo it with a 17mm spanner, then watch your expensive fluid fall back out again, you should get about 3 litres.  Then, put the drain plug back in, pump 3 litres back in through the fill plug with the fitting and pump, disconnect the fill fitting and replace the fill plug, start the car and run for another 3 minutes (making sure the temp is still under 40oC). The manual then asks for a 3rd "spill and fill" just like above. I also did that and so had put 13l in by now.  This time they want you to keep the engine running and run the transmission through R and D (I hope the wheels are still off the ground!) for a while, and allow the trans temp to get to 40oC, then engine off. Finally, back under the car and undo the fill plug to let the overfill drain out; it will stop running when fluid is at the top of the levelling tube. According to the factory, that is job done! Post that, I reconnected the fill fitting and pumped in an extra 0.5l. AMS says 1.5l overfill is safe, but I started with less to see how it goes, I will add another 1.0 litres later if I'm still not happy with the hot shifts.
    • OK, so regardless of whether you did Step 1 - Spill Step 2 - Trans pan removal Step 3 - TCM removal we are on to the clean and refill. First, have a good look at the oil pan. While you might see dirty oil and some carbony build up (I did), what you don't want to see is any metal particles on the magnets, or sparkles in the oil (thankfully not). Give it all a good clean, particularly the magnets, and put the new gasket on if you have one (or, just cross your fingers) Replacement of the Valve body (if you removed it) is the "reverse of assembly". Thread the electrical socket back up through the trans case, hold the valve body up and put in the bolts you removed, with the correct lengths in the correct locations Torque for the bolts in 8Nm only so I hope you have that torque wrench handy (it feels really loose). Plug the output speed sensor back in and clip the wiring into the 2 clips, replace the spring clip on the TCM socket and plug it back into the car loom. For the pan, the workshop manual states the following order: Again, the torque is 8Nm only.
    • One other thing to mention from my car before we reassemble and refill. Per that earlier diagram,   There should be 2x B length (40mm) and 6x C length (54mm). So I had incorrectly removed one extra bolt, which I assume was 40mm, but even so I have 4x B and 5x C.  Either, the factory made an assembly error (very unlikely), or someone had been in there before me. I vote for the latter because the TCM part number doesn't match my build date, I suspect the TCM was changed under warranty. This indeed led to much unbolting, rebolting, checking, measuring and swearing under the car.... In the end I left out 1x B bolt and put in a 54mm M6 bolt I already had to make sure it was all correct
    • A couple of notes about the TCM. Firstly, it is integrated into the valve body. If you need to replace the TCM for any reason you are following the procedure above The seppos say these fail all the time. I haven't seen or heard of one on here or locally, but that doesn't mean it can't happen. Finally, Ecutek are now offering tuning for the 7 speed TCM. It is basically like ECU tuning in that you have to buy a license for the computer, and then known parameters can be reset. This is all very new and at the moment they are focussing on more aggressive gear holding in sports or sports+ mode, 2 gear launches for drag racing etc. It doesn't seem to affect shift speed like you can on some transmissions. Importantly for me, by having controllable shift points you can now raise the shift point as well as the ECU rev limit, together allowing it to rev a little higher when that is useful. In manual mode, my car shifts up automatically regardless of what I do which is good (because I don't have to worry about it) but bad (because I can't choose to rev a little higher when convenient).  TCMs can only be tuned from late 2016 onwards, and mine is apparently not one of those although the car build date was August 2016 (presumably a batch of ADM cars were done together, so this will probably be the situation for most ADM cars). No idea about JDM cars, and I'm looking into importing a later model valve body I can swap in. This is the top of my TCM A couple of numbers but no part number. Amayama can't find my specific car but it does say the following for Asia-RHD (interestingly, all out of stock....): So it looks like programable TCM are probably post September 2018 for "Asia RHD". When I read my part number out from Ecutek it was 31705-75X6D which did not match Amayama for my build date (Aug-2016)
×
×
  • Create New...