Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey ppl, i got some issues with the speedo in my ceffy. It seems to be out by aroung 20 km/h at 100, like i'm doin 100 but it says im doin 120. it seems to get progressivly further out, like at 60 it says im doin 70 and at 160, well the speedo is off the clock, and the speed limiter still hasn't cut in. at first i thought i had a lower diff ratio, but that doesn't explain the different variations. Also when I accelerate slowly the needle goes round smooth, but if i boot it the needle jumps 20 km/h at a time, like from 140 straight to 160. Anyone have any ideas???

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/66617-speedo-problems/
Share on other sites

same problem here... (also the km readings are higher by around 20%, ie. clocks 1.2kms every 1km i travel... :D will be - factor when i sell the car)

in my case, the problem most definately is the small tyres that came with the car as my mechanical-minded friend told me (read sky80y) ;) the tyres on the car atm are 195/55/15s... i'm getting 205/60/15s soon...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/66617-speedo-problems/#findComment-1239750
Share on other sites

I think your needle is toast, I replaced my speedo because that happened to me, I have an aftermarket diff and 18"s on mine and my new speedo is only 5km/h out. When im doing 100 speedo reads 95. I got that information courtesy of a dyno

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/66617-speedo-problems/#findComment-1239773
Share on other sites

205/60/15 are what i run, i thought my tires were to big, but if they were too big i'd be goin faster than what my speedy said, just on a side note, nissaner, do you go to the off street drift at oran park?

hmm... maybe the problem wasn't my tyres...

and no i'm yet to goto those drift meets in my ceffy... public streets are challenging enough for novice drivers like myself... :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/66617-speedo-problems/#findComment-1239890
Share on other sites

I have been told also that they Ceffys have a common fault with Speedo cables breaking as I have been through 2 so far. ( have a few (4) coming from jap in the next container)

Also the sensor in the G/box has been know to do the jumpy thing in speed as it does it with my ARC-R

Will follow this up when it all arrives

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/66617-speedo-problems/#findComment-1240503
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

my cef does the same thing with the speedo, i.e doin 100km/h on speedo but only doing 85km/h on the road. But mine has stock size rims/tires, i.e 195/60 15in. But i have a locked diff aftermarket manual conversion.

By the sounds of it this is a common problem.

David

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/66617-speedo-problems/#findComment-1252448
Share on other sites

My speedo is consistantly 10% higher than what I'm actually doing, I base this on the speed reported by my Impakt DigiDash (takes it's data from the diagnostic port) and other traffic.

The needle also "floats" if you know what i mean, it just doesn't seem to move right and wobbles a bit back and forth from time to time, I have a feeling it might be the cable where it hooks up the back or gearbox isn't quite right but have yet to check it out.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/66617-speedo-problems/#findComment-1253545
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

I seem to be having the same problem with my cheffy. I just picked it up at Freo port today an it seems to be out around 10-15km at 60km/h. I know it has been converted from auto to manual, maybe they didnt get the manual sheepo cord.?

that is all I can think it might be as putting on bigger rims shouldnt change affect the speedo that much.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/66617-speedo-problems/#findComment-1277373
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I had 3 counts over the last couple of weeks once where i got stranded at a jdm paint yard booking in some work. 2nd time was moving the car into the drive way for the inspection and the 3rd was during the inspection for the co2 leak test. Fix: 1st, car off for a hour and half disconnected battery 10mins 4th try car started 2nd, 5th try started 3rd, countless time starting disconnected battery dude was under the hood listening to the starting sequence fuel pump ect.   
    • This. As for your options - I suggest remote mounting the Nissan sensor further away on a length of steel tube. That tube to have a loop in it to handle vibration, etc etc. You will need to either put a tee and a bleed fitting near the sensor, or crack the fitting at the sensor to bleed it full of oil when you first set it up, otherwise you won't get the line filled. But this is a small problem. Just needs enough access to get it done.
    • The time is always correct. Only the date is wrong. It currently thinks it is January 19. Tomorrow it will say it is January 20. The date and time are ( should be ! ) retrieved from the GPS navigation system.
    • Buy yourself a set of easy outs. See if they will get a good bite in and unthread it.   Very very lucky the whole sender didn't let go while on the track and cost you a motor!
    • Well GTSBoy, prepare yourself further. I did a track day with 1/2 a day prep on Friday, inpromptu. The good news is that I got home, and didn't drive the car into a wall. Everything seemed mostly okay. The car was even a little faster than it was last time. I also got to get some good datalog data too. I also noticed a tiny bit of knock which was (luckily?) recorded. All I know is the knock sensors got recalibrated.... and are notorious for false knock. So I don't know if they are too sensitive, not sensitive enough... or some other third option. But I reduced timing anyway. It wasn't every pull through the session either. Think along the lines of -1 degree of timing for say, three instances while at the top of 4th in a 20 minute all-hot-lap session. Unfortunately at the end of session 2... I noticed a little oil. I borrowed some jack stands and a jack and took a look under there, but as is often the case, messing around with it kinda half cleaned it up, it was not conclusive where it was coming from. I decided to give it another go and see how it was. The amount of oil was maybe one/two small drops. I did another 20 minute session and car went well, and I was just starting to get into it and not be terrified of driving on track. I pulled over and checked in the pits and saw this: This is where I called it, packed up and went home as I live ~20 min from the track with a VERY VERY CLOSE EYE on Oil Pressure on the way home. The volume wasn't much but you never know. I checked it today when I had my own space/tools/time to find out what was going on, wanted to clean it up, run the car and see if any of the fittings from around the oil filter were causing it. I have like.. 5 fittings there, so I suspected one was (hopefully?) the culprit. It became immediately apparent as soon as I looked around more closely. 795d266d-a034-4b8c-89c9-d83860f5d00a.mp4       This is the R34 GTT oil sender connected via an adapter to an oil cooler block I have installed which runs AN lines to my cooler (and back). There's also an oil temp sensor on top.  Just after that video, I attempted to unthread the sensor to see if it's loose/worn and it disintegrated in my hand. So yes. I am glad I noticed that oil because it would appear that complete and utter catastrophic engine failure was about 1 second of engine runtime away. I did try to drill the fitting out, and only succeeded in drilling the middle hole much larger and now there's a... smooth hole in there with what looks like a damn sleeve still incredibly tight in there. Not really sure how to proceed from here. My options: 1) Find someone who can remove the stuck fitting, and use a steel adapter so it won't fatigue? (Female BSPT for the R34 sender to 1/8NPT male - HARD to find). IF it isn't possible to remove - Buy a new block ($320) and have someone tap a new 1/8NPT in the top of it ($????) and hope the steel adapter works better. 2) Buy a new block and give up on the OEM pressure sender for the dash entirely, and use the supplied 1/8 NPT for the oil temp sender. Having the oil pressure read 0 in the dash with the warning lamp will give me a lot of anxiety driving around. I do have the actual GM sensor/sender working, but it needs OBD2 as a gauge. If I'm datalogging I don't actually have a readout of what the gauge is currently displaying. 3) Other? Find a new location for the OEM sender? Though I don't know of anywhere that will work. I also don't know if a steel adapter is actually functionally smart here. It's clearly leveraged itself through vibration of the motor and snapped in half. This doesn't seem like a setup a smart person would replicate given the weight of the OEM sender. Still pretty happy being lucky for once and seeing this at the absolute last moment before bye bye motor in a big way, even if an adapter is apparently 6 weeks+ delivery and I have no way to free the current stuck/potentially destroyed threads in the current oil block.
×
×
  • Create New...