Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all

I have a Huge turbo for sale. Its been fully rebuilt has internal wastegate, and a T3/T4 Flange. It would suit a car that wants to run big PSI and would get big HP from it. It has a 360 degree thrust collar in it so it would be capable of running 20 - 30 psi easy.

In the pictures there is one that has a T25g next to it have a look at the difference in size, Its HUGE!!!!!!!

Had Porbs with pics so they are below in next post

Looking for around $1000

Thanks Craig

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/66982-huge-turbo-for-sale/
Share on other sites

It sure ain't bigger than 500hp as it is internally gated. 500+hp requires an external waste gate, no matter what brand. I honestly think that about 20psi would be approuching the peak of this turbo's effiency range.

Is it water and oil cooled, or just oil?

It sure ain't bigger than 500hp as it is internally gated.

Biggest myth ever.

XR6 Turbos are 600 - 700 hp and they are internally gated.

I know many people with Garret 700hp Turbos, internally gated. One good friend of mine, has a supra, internally gated 700hp garret turbo.

If you don't believe me, I'll post pics...

It sure ain't bigger than 500hp as it is internally gated.

Biggest myth ever.

XR6 Turbos are 600 - 700 hp and they are internally gated.

I know many people with Garret 700hp Turbos, internally gated. One good friend of mine, has a supra, internally gated 700hp garret turbo.

If you don't believe me, I'll post pics...

Thanks Mafia people just thing internal gated are shit but there not.

It got rebuilt by my mates work. Its bigger than a T04e by a bit but is simular in perfomance but this turbo will put out a bit more. Thats about all i no about it.

I have a Familia and it wont fit on it or i would put it on. It hit my radiator support so in real life it is big.

Alf unless your interested dont post s##t.

Thanks

where did you hear the XR6 turbos are 600hp? i hope your talking upgraded, instead of stock.

Stock turbo is massive on XR6T. They're a GT3540/GT40 (Can't remember the exact trims or anything) and they are internally gated and rated at 600hp+

wats ya mates work but? im not asking random shit i want to know if its been rebuilt by somone in the know or just some dude working in his back shed

im not going to buy a turbo no matter how big it is if its gona shit itslef due to a dodgy history

being a t3 flange it will bolt straight onto a skyline yeah? i didnt think to4e`s had a t3 flange? but i may be wrong:)

otherwise, i am in curumbin and may pay ya a visit

Your right mate just over the other people who post crap. Mates works at a diesel place that have one person that just rebuilds turbos all day. They have done some work for me but dont realy do it for public. So done proplery not a shed job. It has a t3/t4 flange so im not sure does yours have a four bolt flange?????. yeah im just around the corner in palm beach.

Biggest myth ever.

XR6 Turbos are 600 - 700 hp and they are internally gated.

I know many people with Garret 700hp Turbos, internally gated. One good friend of mine, has a supra, internally gated 700hp garret turbo.

If you don't believe me, I'll post pics...

:bs!:

XR6 turbos have been resticted, the original housings are too small (internally), therefor clamping their power to about 350hp. If you hi-flow (port the original housings; front and rear) then yes, an easy 700hp with external gate. A actuator has not yet been designed to reliably handle 700hp without boost spikes, etc. But if you want to say they have, well i wont stop you, but please state a known brand turbo that is internally gated and can reliably hold boost at 600+hp.

well if you guys are so smart why do truck turbo come with internal waste gates that can turn big power?????  Have you ever seen a turbo like this on a skyline cos if you had you would no that they go well.!!!!!!!!!
Sorry my bad, i thought you said this was suitable for a car. Truck turbos have massive exhaust housings and will hardly even hit boost when mounted on a car. These turbos are also built for high torque at low rpm, thus they only need to be oil cooled as trucks can move massive amounts of air at the lower rev range.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
    • There is a really fun solution to this problem, buy a Haltech (or ECU of your choice) and put the MAF in the bin.  I'm assuming your going to want more power in future, so you'll need to get the ECU at some stage. I'd put the new MAF money towards the new ECU. 
×
×
  • Create New...