Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok, I lied about the prize but you'll have my admiration for your knowledge...

I'm wondering what the little beige coloured box slung underneath the big gray box is. It's on the right side of the boot. The big gray one would be the HICAS controller I think? So the little beige one would be...(fill in blank:))

Hoping it's A-LSD...I've never seen a "slip" light go on but I don't nail the car that hard around turns and only had it for two weeks. There are 15 lights in the dash and never seen any of them come on except the ones at startup etc. (so handbrake, HICAS, ABS, oil, overdrive, airbag, engine - don't think I've seen any others)

ihnp-320609thumb.jpg

ihnp-320619thumb.jpg

ihnp-320626thumb.jpg

Is there a part number on it?

/edit: it could be ABS controller - my brother's 32 has ABS and HICAS and it's two boxes. I don't have ABS on my 33 and I just have the HICAS box.

Q2: Do you have Active-LSD? It consists of two lights right in the middle of the tacho; "A-LSD" and "SLIP."

Hmm no there's no lights in the tacho itself :D But it's an auto so the tacho is prolly different? There's two groupings of 5 lights each on either side of the dials, plus various other lights scattered around but most of the lights have never come on and when they're not on they're completely black I can't see what they are.

Well what made me wonder is in another post someone suggested that in the model code for R33 if the 18th letter (factory options) is 'C' (which mine is) that means it has ALSD and ABS. I haven't seen this confirmed anywhere else though or anywhere to decode it...it definitely has ABS anyway.

The TOMEI HICAS locks are much smaller that that, and they are usually a small black plastic box, not metal. And I dare say that if it was a HKS one it'd be stamped with HKS all over it - you know how they love to stamp their stuff..

Have a look at the mounting brackets on the box, looks very factory to me.

J

EDIT: Just put the car into HICAS diagnostic mode and the HICAS works fine...rear wheels were doing their little turns etc

Hmm I dunno what HICAS feels like or if it's engaging...I do get a HICAS light when I start the car tho, would I still get that if the HICAS was disengaged?

I just have to know....it's eating me up.

What intrigues me most is it appears some skylines have "mystery-boxes" and some don't - factory option? Or have some original/previous owners removed their mystery-boxes for some reason??

Someone's gotta know...it's probably something incredibly mundane

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
    • Heh. I copied the link to the video direct, instead of the thread I mentioned. But the video is the main value content anyway. Otherwise, yes, in Europe, surely you'd be expected to buy local. Being whichever flavour of Michelin, Continental or Pirelli suits your usage model.
×
×
  • Create New...