Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi there guys, just trying to find myself a new replacement set of bulbs or just bulb for my r32.

The bulb is H3C is that right?

Any suggestions/reccommendations would be appreciated. I tried that little 'car accessories' shop in carousel, they said they ran out.

Anyways, cheers.

I had success with my bolbs at Carquest in East Perth, Shop 9 Piccadilly Square, 5 Short St. They have website but you prob wont find the bolbs listed on there www.carquest.com.au

I'd go in there, I hunted everywhere and found most of the stuff there.

Ciao!

Im pretty sure mine are not H4 (r32 gtr), as ive tried those and its a total different design, my mechanic said they were H3C - i think he said they were same as s13 sil, not 100% sure but its def not H4 for mine.

Most places i found dont stock the H3C.

Thanks every one for your help, cheers.

When trying to find parts for an import ure best bet is to ripp it out and take it in and match it up with what ever they have, usually they have some crazy ass number on the side that gets you nowhere but the part is exactly the same as a standard part from a commo or something. just a bit of advice coming from the guy who get weird looks when he says

Me- "its a nissan auster"

Repco/any car guy- "Nissan what?!?!?!"

My right hand indicator bulb has blown twice in two months :D

Stop overtaking people so much, then you wont need to use your right indicator so much (haha)

speaking of blown bulbs, my ute has chewed 3 LHS bulbs in a month....sus, must be something im doing wrong

hey speaking of bulbs? i have a gtst, its has park light, projector and high light in one cluster (like gtr) but are those bulbs (main light, projector) H1 or H3C cos i am trying to find white/blue lights for my line? any advice anyone?

hey speaking of bulbs? i have a gtst, its has park light, projector and high light in one cluster (like gtr) but are those bulbs (main light, projector) H1 or H3C cos i am trying to find white/blue lights for my line? any advice anyone?

Pretty sure it would be h3c, but i could be wrong, the H3C just has 2 big prongs on the bottom, just do what the others said and rip one out and take them out and about.

As for blue/white in H3C - i found them virtually impossible to find in Perth, maybe some where east has them readily available not quite sure, i found them hard enough to find 'normal' globes in the H3C pattern.

if you really want the blue/white look, id personally go a HID conversion, theres a bloke in the Forsale/parts section selling them for about 350-400 i think. Id pick up a set straight away, if i didnt have to buy so many uni books this semester :P

neways, good luck :)

  • 4 weeks later...
ok, i was looking at ebay, is there any difference between H3 and H3C? just want confirmation cos they do sell blue/white lights in both these codes..

Yep, they are different - take a look at www.narva.com.au/Globes_16.html and you will see the difference.

The main difference is that H3 has one prong, whereas H3C has two prongs (positive and ground).

My r32 has H3C bulbs in them aswell, but i was told that you can put in H3 and just attach it using the positive side of your plug. In saying this, does it mean that the H3 (and the H1 for that matter) doesn't need a ground wire since they only have 1 attachment?

Most companies only stock the standard light colour for the H3C, whereas you can get blue, white, arctic blue etc in the H3.

Anyone tried replacing the bulbs like this?

Just replaced my H3C bulbs with H3 bulbs...

Since the h3c bulb has 2 connectors and the h3 has 1, all you need to do is solder a piece of wire to the metal base of the h3 bulb and attach it to the ground wire in your headlight loom. The other wire just plugs into the positive side.

**The headlights that normally use h3 bulbs are already grounded hence no need for an extra wire.**

Works perfectly. :(

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @666DAN sorry to bring you and old thread.     I've got my de+t done and it's all running great other than 1 small issue.    Car has remained auto with the na auto and tcm, I've used a stagea ecu with. NIstune board and everything is great other than my gear selection on the dash. It illuminates park, reverse, neutral, 3rd and 2nd when selected . But nothing when in  drive or what gear your in when you pop it into tiptronic. I'm sure there is maybe 1 wire in the ecu plug I need to move to rectify this. Do ya have any ideas?     Cheers man
    • Well I recently changed my rear axles and was thinking if I bumped anything, I have been driving the car for a while now though... But it has been raining today so everything is wet under the wheel arches. Brakes feel fine and can't hear any of the metal screamers, I had a squeak coming from one of the handbrake drums but that seems to have gone away a while ago. I was going down a hill when it lit up and I did feel the abs bite for a second and question why it did it?
    • Correct. Um. I dunno. I haven't cared enough about the way that the NA cars work to know for sure. But..... The 33/34 turbo manual cars have an electronic speed sensor in the gearbox that outputs a +/- (ie, sawtooth AC) voltage signal. That is connected to the speedo. The speedo then outputs a 0-5v square wave (ie, PWM) signal that the ECU (and any other CU on the bus) sees. The speed sensor is NOT directly connected to the ECU. So here's the problem. Your new ECU expects to see the PWM signal, but must somehow be getting a direct signal from the diff speed sensor. Which would suggest that the wiring of the NA car is not the same as the turbo cars. I think you will need to spend some time with (hopefully the wiring diagram for the car) and a multimeter to see what is connected to what. Then, presuming I am correct**, you would then want to separate the ECU speed signal input from the rest of the car's wiring, and probably either buy a speed signal converter, or build one using an arduino (or similar). That would take in the speed sensor signal and output a scaled (and suitably rearranged) signal for the ECU. ** We shouldn't presume that I am correct here, because there might be something else crazy going on. I don't think you could convert the speedo to be fed from the gearbox sensor, because the pulse rate from that sensor is probably different to the diff sensor and then the speedo would read wrongly. And this also wouldn't fix the ECU's problem either, because the ECU doesn't want to see the gearbox signal direct either (assuming that they are all on the same wiring, for some odd NA related reason, see above caveat!) Does this help? Probably not. Can you make it work? Almost certainly. With the above work. You should buy a handheld oscilloscope from Aliexpress so that you can view these signals directly. Connect up the probes and drive the car. Show photos of the screen when drving at known speeds and connected to different places, and we'll see what we can learn about it.
    • Assuming your brake pads are not worn right down, I'd add a little brake fluid. Is there any sign of a brake fluid leak?
    • Hello all,  I need of some help. On my drive home my handbrake light lit up and started flashing. When I got home I checked my handbrake sensor under the centre console and nothing seemed out of the ordinary. I have scanned my car via the consult port, no codes shown. Checked my brake fluid as well which is half full. Tried unplugging the brake master but it didn't change anything. Thoughts on what it could be? The master float doesn't seem to be stuck. My car is an 1998 ER34 sedan GT. No hicas but has ABS Photos below 👇🏾 
×
×
  • Create New...