Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys

went to willowbank test and tune last nite

after doin a 16.1 last time completely stock AUTO

i have improved abit with the help of a FMIC

avcr controller set on 10psi

CES racing split dump .

My time i did last nite was 15.2 with a .640 reaction time .

im off saving for my next lot of things to do to make it quicker

series 1 1993

had 122.3rwkw stock

and after those little mods it did 166.9rwkw

so slowly moving up .

Would this time that i did be accurate to the dyno rating 166.9?

considerin the reaction time and all of that?

my 60 ft time was 2.356

and did 91mph.

so yeah dont know whats goin on there then.

i'll get the car looked at and do what needs to be done

next thing is injectors, fuel rail, fuel pump, cams,

trans cooler, stg 2 quick shift, highflowcat, afm then turbo.

so should be gettin a bit betta from then

well done but im sure you would like to do better. Do you only have a dump pipe with the rest of the exhaust stock?? If this is the case then that will be a big restriction.

Also did you launch the car just by planting down the foot in 'D' or did you stall it up as far as it can go then taking off right when boost comes on??

Good stuff Mate , keep pushing it :)

My auto ( when it was stock turbo & ecu ) made a best of 13.4 @ 106mph (280 rwhp)

I didn't lunch an auto until mid 300s rwhp , & even then it was only heat that killed it!

I'm trying "Redline racing ATF" now ( with a bigger cooler!) , I'll keep you informed.....

GO THE AUTO!

when i went down the quarter

i stalled it up to about 2500 and .4 or .5 boost in 1st gear

then changed to 2nd and drive

Should i try goin down in just drive ?

I have CES racing split dump 3inch

Catback 3 1/4 hyper Medallion exahust

AVCR controller set on 10psi

600X300X75 hybrid intercooler

K&n panel filter

APC did a compression test and found the 6 cylinder was 130 and the rest were 150

I havent been in another auto yet, but it feels like my gearchanges between

2 and 3rd are pretty slow or is it just normal.

pulled a alright skid though hahaha.

What other things should i be lookin at to get myself in the 13's bracket?

  • 3 weeks later...

I aslo have an auto and am about to install a Greddy Profec B-spec II. I want to set the high setting ti 11psi. Will it be OK to have it on high for the entire race. Should I launch on low then go to high. Mines all whell drive so I dont need to worry about traction. Ill have a bigger transmission cooler in by the next meet.

My time i did last nite was 15.2 with a .640 reaction time.
Your R/Times don't count. The timer starts when you leave the staging line and cross the finishing line (otherwise most rotary cars would be doing 2min 1/4's :))
my 60 ft time was 2.356 and did 91mph.
. With some more experience you will easily drop this to around a 2.1sec 60ft which should put you in the mid to high 14's with no mods at all.

bazr33:

Well done on the time. As everyone will continue to tell u....practice on your 60ft times.

Did you have your Power button on & O/D 'off'? Coz I believe that helps with the launches & gear changes.

Gear changes normally are pretty slow in the auto (approx 1 sec....zzzz). If you’re interested, currently theres a group buy for an upgraded valve body (shift kits) from M/V Automatics - highly recommended & will give the manuals a run for their money.

As HR31 mentioned, do the car a favour & get yourself a high flow cat immediately!!! & if after that, given your mods, your tuner cant tune you over 170rwkw, I'd seriously look for a new one.

For a helpful comparison guide search on the drift & drag forums (the ones by 'benm' are insightful). All the best mate :)

burkey22:

I believe with a fairly dead stock Stagea you can safetly tune upwards of 10-11psi - (dont know your mods though). If traction on your launches isnt an issue just stick it on hi.

For a helpful comparison guide search on the drift & drag forums (the ones by 'benm' are insightful). All the best mate :P
12mths, 30 runs, ~$3,700+ spent and only a 0.5sec improvement.... Yup you'll learn lots from me :)
  • 6 months later...

i did 15.1 at wsid. auto r32 gtst 3" exhaust,pod filter and 11psi.

O/D was OFF and power was on,even had my mirrors folded in.

can anyone help with launches in fairly stock auto's? at what rpm should i change to 2nd? it feels like it should change earlier,but it likes to redline.

Does manualy shifting the gears make it change quicker? or is it an illusion?

Edited by RSTME

Go the auto

stalling up in N and smaking it in to drive and i through you would leave your gear box at the start

Greddy e manage with ignision harnes + wider tyers

out of interest i have a 250 rwhp auto

how would that go i wonder

james

Sad to say it but thats still slower than a stock off the showroom floor 265 powered auto 1973 valiant sedan.

Good to see you getting some improvement though..keep it up

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yes, I know🙄 but the sequential is not in my budget... don't want to reduce power neither, so looks like I'm stuck in the rabbit hole🤣
    • You’ll be very upset when you bust that too not to mention the gearing totally sucks. Don’t do it.
    • Is the panel filter one that is oiled? Have you ever cleaned or touched the AFM?
    • So.... the K&N air box thingo was too big, ended up gifting it to a mate, well, by gifting it he actually supplied food and beer at the pub,  which was nice, as it will not sit on a shelf in the garage for the next 10 years I did trim up some of the existing stuff to neaten it all up and gave it some wrinkle paint, unfortunately it currently has a used and abused mish mash of different types of hose clamps, 4 big fat T bolt type (shit), and a few normal clamps of vairing sizes and brands, but..... only until the 6 constant tension black worm clamps that I ordered from EFI solutions turn up next week Currently the current hose clamps are triggering me hard, LOL Is this the final version, probably not, I really want just 2 silicone pieces, a straight bit of silicone from the filter to the MAF is easy and will happen as soon as I head into Just Jap tomorrow, the problematic part is a 30° silicone bend from the MAF to the TB that I can connect the engine breather from the head, I found that there are bulk head fittings for boat bilge pumps that should work, but until I can get a 30° silicone bend the alloy pipe, and the 11ty thousand hose clamps, are there for the foreseeable future 4 hose clamps are golden, 6 are grudgingly acceptable, the 8 currently holding it all together is just taking the piss    I've also ordered 60 more retaining wall blocks for the front yard, I mis-gonculated the height that was required to get above the base of the Photinia's (red robin's) that are the hedge behind the front fence, currently it is 2 blocks high, and about 1/2 a block short, so going 3 blocks high will be above the base of the red robin's, and allow some room for mulch
×
×
  • Create New...