Jump to content
SAU Community

RB25/30 in R32

mr_rbman

By mr_rbman,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
Posted

One has to wonder if the turbo you are running is better suited to the rb20 than the HKS2530.

It would be very interesting to see back to back dyno runs.

Well this is a little off topic.. so... this turbo on the rb30 with the larger exhaust a/r might be quite a good responsive thing. :D

  • Replies 101
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

geordie Proficient

geordie

Posted
Posted

Ok, so i know the rb25 (r32) head uses same injectors as R32 gtst, someeon mentioned changing over to GTR items later on, the R32 gtst are high impedence and the gtr low impedence, does this make a difference/complication......will aftermarket computers handle this?? Whats the go with injector impedence. Coz the above mentioned injectors are both top feed...that much i know.......

Cheers

Geordie

mr_rbman Grand Master

mr_rbman

Posted
  • Author
Posted
mr_rbman,

 

For engine mounts head down the Shaun at Boostworx.

 

I bought my R32 RB25 head 2yrs ago from Adelaide jap for $750.

 

Take what Adelaide Jap say with a pinch of salt as they really don't know what parts are from what car.

They claimed my RB25 head was a R33 RB25 as the R32's didn't have a RB25 lol.

This was 2yrs ago so they may be a little more informed these days. :rofl:

engine mounts i will do myself as i am a boilermaker and things like that r a piece of piss, i hope to do most things myself minus the wiring up (no idea with electrical things) and the tuning which i will be seeing Shaun at Boostworx for!

Never deal with Adelaide Jap, have had the same experiences as u with them and will never go to them again!

Sydneykid Grand Master

Sydneykid

Posted
Posted
Its a lot of money to get so little power, i mean POWAH. But if i could be farked i have priced an RB30DET for about $6,500, thats with cams, pistons and rods. $7,000 with a bit of porting

Then i would need to get my TD06 rebuilt and hi-flowed using either a 25G compressor or a GT30 wheel (and back to 10cm exhaust housing) About $1400..RB25 gearbox and twin plate clutch with modded tailshaft. $3100

So to go from 235rwkws to 335-350rwkws it will cost another $11,000

This is not an unusual question faced by R32GTST owners, thinking about RB30/25 in their car. So it is releveant to this thread.

Have you worked out how much you could sell the RB20DET for, complete with turbo, clutch, gearbox etc? Basically everything that you don't need. Keep the PFC, intercooler, exhaust, AVCR etc. Basically everything that complements the RB31.

Secondly, 350 rwkw's is a bit low for a $7K RB31, more like 400 rwkw. And at Philip Island you can use it, you were there and saw the blue car utilise that amount of power to win a National Championship.

It is horses for courses:cheers:

Sydneykid Grand Master

Sydneykid

Posted
Posted
Tunned my car a bit more yesterday, my RB30det made 290 RWKW on 19.5psi, still using the stock RB25 n/a cams, and stock VL bottom end. Cant wait to get some decent cams in it.

That's getting up there in both power and boost. What's the A/F ratios look like?

:cheers:

sky30 Mentor

sky30

Posted
Posted

Joel-cams im getting are tomei 260 degrees 8.8mm lift for both inlet and exhaust, which makes a fair improvement over the stock items.

SK- I set the A/F ratios to run at flat 12:1 at full load, using bosch o44 and rx7 injectors. Its a fair bit of power for a stock motor to handle, be interesting to see how long it lasts. Ive kept the rev limit fairly low at 7000rpm.

Sydneykid Grand Master

Sydneykid

Posted
Posted
SK- I set the A/F ratios to run at flat 12:1 at full load, using bosch o44 and rx7 injectors. Its a fair bit of power for a stock motor to handle, be interesting to see how long it lasts. Ive kept the rev limit fairly low at 7000rpm.

Sounds OK, just don't be tempted into running a "just bit more boost" or "if I lean it out a little bit I can get to 300 rwkw". Resist the temptation.

You will find the cams make a heap of difference. I will be interested to see how much the boost drops with the increased efficiency.

:thumbsup:

sky30 Mentor

sky30

Posted
Posted

SK- If i was to run more boost with the correct a/f ratios and ignition timiing , do you think the motor would handle it??

Joel- On the dyno it makes peak power at around 6000rpm, and starts to drop off, but on the road its hard to notice this, and it seems to pull hard all the way to 7000rpm. not too sure why.

Darren- The tomei cams are RB20det cams, they also fit the rb25de.

Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
Posted

valve float/bounce = pump up. :thumbsup:

Sounds good Sky30, peak at 6000rpm is a nice rpm point. :rofl:

I'm sure you have seen this dyno graph of a GT30r.

The 3ltr definitely looks like it needs that better flowing exhaust housing to get its higher rpm VE up there to prevent power flattening out.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • joshuaho96
      Cas issue

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • joshuaho96
      Jacks that fit under GTR lips that can reach the subframe?

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Duncan
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Duncan · Posted

      Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...