Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

My no. 2 injector is weeping a tiny bit of fuel through the o-ring. I went and got some replacement o-rings from an EFI place only to find they are too big (after pulling the fuel rail off of course).

I have o-rings that will fit - but they came out of one of those big packs from Supercheap - my question is - will these do - they look like good quality? Or do I need ones that are made out of a special fuel+heat resistant rubber ?

Paul

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/67845-injector-o-rings/
Share on other sites

Ignore above - the answer is yes they are specific fuel type o-rings.

I have been told that these o-rings for gtr injectors need to be genuine nissan ones for r-32 gtr's

Just to confirm you got these o-rings from supercheap auto and they fit your r32 gtr injectors? So what I was told could be misleading?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/67845-injector-o-rings/#findComment-1258357
Share on other sites

Yeah sounds right - will give nissan a call tomorrow morning.

I was just wondering if the normal off the shelf rubber o-rings you get at Supercheap/Autobarn/Repco would do for injectors - however it seems not.

Now I wonder what Nissan want for 6 of these little things .... better make sure I am sitting down when I call them ....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/67845-injector-o-rings/#findComment-1258426
Share on other sites

Part numbers if anyone needs em in future:

R32 GTR / RB26DETT

Rear O-ring - 16412F - $9.50

Rear Insulator - 16603F - $13.35

Front seal - 16603G - $5.35

Faxed me the diagram - got all the part nos for fuel rail etc - wish I had that damn software they use.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/67845-injector-o-rings/#findComment-1259534
Share on other sites

Turns out it is the injector body that is actually weeping fuel.

The first thing the guy at EFI hardware said was "are you sure it's not the injector itself, those injectors are prone to leaking through the body" - guy at nissan was also doubtful that the o-ring would fail.

Damn shame because now I gotta waste money on a replacement stock injector when I should be purchasing a bigger set for use with the PFC when it arrives.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/67845-injector-o-rings/#findComment-1262653
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
A few of mine weeped. I replaced all seals, still leaked. Ended up putting the new seals on a set of late model R33 GTR set of injectors I bought. Annoying, but you can't fck around with fuel leaking in the engine bay..

Were these a straight replacement with the stock ECU ? No difference between R32 and R33 variants ?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/67845-injector-o-rings/#findComment-1284550
Share on other sites

yes 32-34 injectors are identical.

I also tried and failed with some cheapie aftermarket o rings....stick to the real thing from Nissan.

BTW while we are on it, get them cleaned and flow tested. I run 4 sets of injectors thru that process before I actually found a set that flowed over 400cc/min (they are rated at 440cc/min new). Some of them were *dangerously* low....cheaper to test your injectors than to rebuild the motor :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/67845-injector-o-rings/#findComment-1286664
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You Gregged a whole racetrack!?
    • Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
    • 310mm rotors will be avilable from Australia, Japan, and probably a few other places. Nothing for the front can be put on the back.
×
×
  • Create New...