Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I think I have located a rumbly (noisy) wheel bearing in my R33 gtst (friont passenger side). In previous cars I have taken the hub off and got a mechanic to put the new bearing in. I had a look today and I can take off the steering arm, strut etc off. But I was just wondering if when poeple take the hub off they disconnect the whole steering axis pivot aswell, hence having to diconnect from top wishbone. Or do you disconnect at this point. There are covers etc so I didn't want to muck around. Is there a manual that would explain this

How long does getting the hub off take and what do you end up with in your hand ...ie. the whole bit where the hub rotates around and the bit that blts to top wishbone ..or not?

Thanks

Umm, you should be aware that the reason you are not getting much of a response here is because Skylines rarely do wheel bearings. I thought I had done one once but it turned out that I had just stuffed my rotor and all it needed was machining to fix it.

I swear it felt and sounded just like a wheel bearing but it wasn't.

Interesting. Maybe I should take off the calipers and see if when I spin it I still get the rumble. Thanks for the idea.

Spins very free though. More so than the other side that is not noisy..like in my corolla, the bearings were a lot stiffer once I put the new ones in..i.e. the wheel was not as free spinning.

As previously posted by Abo Bob, wheel bearing wear on Skylines is most unusual. It can be confirmed by checking the sideways play in the bearing. Simply jack up the suspect wheel, grab the tyre with one hand at the front and the other at the rear and attempt to rock the tyre in and out. Do the same with one hand at the top and the other at the bottom. Compare the amounts of movement.

The next test is to remove the dust cover and the split pin and see if there is any looseness in the retaining nut. Also a visual inspection of the amount and condition of the grease usually reveals any bearing wear.

Hope that is of some help:cheers:

Do you mean the dust cover at the back? I'll investigate. But when I spin that hub there is quite a rumbly noise.

So if I find it is the bearing how does it all come apart - what shoul I end up with in my hand. THhe whole hub with the steering axis atached to it?

Thanks

Well i took the caliper off and the noise was still there. There was so many dead insects caught in the back between the disc and hub. I took them all out and there was less noise. There is a dust cap at the BACK and the big nut is at the back also. I think I'm going to have to pull it apart and some stage to replace.

The bearing is quite noisy when you spin the wheel orr disk. Also you can see the disk is moving axially when you spin it. I guess it could be warped slightly but possibly the bearing is causing this.

Anybody got a manual for an R33 showing this. The S15 manual I have shows a nut at the front!

There is a cap over the nut at the back. Remove the cap, remove the nut (which is not easy, as the hub will spin). You may need the wheel on the ground to hold it down, and chock it.

I think it will be 30mm thread - big sucker.

Yes it comes off very easy once the nut is off, maybe just some gentle coaxing with an all purpose adjusting tool (put the nut back on 90% first so you dont damage the thread).

To undo the nut, just get someone to stand on the brakes.....then find a reaaaaaly big breaker bar and off she comes

Hey thanks Predator and Duncan

I found this for an R34 - it makes sense now I think R33 will be the same. I'll give it a go, I've been fixing my brothers camry onto the the skyline soon.

Does anybody have the part no for the front wheel bearing of an R33? will I have trouble getting the bearing out of the hub? I will probably take the hub to a mechanic and let them do it with the press etc. I priced Nissan and they were $76 - I think I can do better.

axle7xm.jpg

I guess once I get the hub nut undone I will disconnect the hub at points below. I think it will be easier to undo the axle nut while it is in car so I can use the brake as Duncan was saying. THanks

assembly8ow.jpg

lol I hope your japanese is up to scratch!

The bit to worry about is 206-284nm....it is damn tight....you will need plenty of leverage if you are doing it yourself :D

Bearings should be available aftermarket, give ACL a call, they will be half the price of nissan ones and may be better quality as well

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...