Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 123
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

HBF every time!!! theyve insured all my imports excellent service and cheap cheap!! my stag fully comp just shy of $600 a year not bad for a turbo import ... my 300zx TT was the same and my 180 and silvia were a lil more cos they were the first cars i insured with them.

When my 180 got broken into they were awesome ... got it sorted in a day =)

im with just cars im 99% sure and with a rb25 its $1000 a year for 21 year old with 65% no claims and garage storage etc, and for the rb26 engine without increasing the value (insured for 19K) its $1100 a year instead, not bad i dont reckon. wait till i mention i want to up the value to 30K or something and then we shall see what they charge.

cheers

Brad

Tried to contact HBF - Health Benefit Fund. They are WA based and wont cover any cars registered outside WA.

If I wasn't living in God's own state I would think about moving..

Oh well, life wasn't meant to be easy - just sunny...every day.

CruiseLiner,

If you have any dramas insuring it for $30K, PM me :D

hey mate, do u happen to work at just cars? i've actually spent around 35k on the car in the past 6 months (thats just parts, not the car itself, not the rb26 engine conversion, and not labour)

how would i go about getting it valued for more than that? its getting out of control and last thing i want is it getting stolen and losing 30K worth of gear cause its only insured for 30K, 30k wouldnt even cover a stock rb26 conversion at all, let alone the engine build, brembo brakes, susp, etc etc.

any info appreciated

Brad

Any one after;

Agreed Value

Choice of Repairer (lifetime guarantee on those repairs)

Pay by the Month (at no extra charge)

Free Windscreen cover

Blanket cover for modifications

Professional driving course cover

21yo+ with a relatively clean driving record

PM me for a comprehensive quote :D

yeah PM him, this guy is really good and he will look after members of SAU!

and mate, i will be in touch with you soon for my policy. cheers

Gday Brad,

You may, or may not, remember me. I came and looked at your VL Calais when you were selling it!

I work for Shannons Ins, Im unsure as to our Just Cars would go about insuring your Stagea for $30K+, but I can tell you now, that that value wouldnt be a problem with us especially after reading about your build up so far.

Gday Brad,

You may, or may not, remember me. I came and looked at your VL Calais when you were selling it!

I work for Shannons Ins, Im unsure as to our Just Cars would go about insuring your Stagea for $30K+, but I can tell you now, that that value wouldnt be a problem with us especially after reading about your build up so far.

arrh k, no sorry i dont remember u exactly, had lots of lookers for the VL in the end, and how do i go about value, is it the reciepts u have for brand new parts added up or what?

ill definately be in contact when i get it running again :D

I have a cover note with Unique for $1135. 40 yo, never had a claim, A1 rating etc etc. Seems a bit high, Shannons was higher.... although I would reconsider if they come up with a better rate :(

Huge thanks to 8005TED for organising the insurance on the stagea. 

i am already a customer of Shannon's (for my GTS-t), the prompt response and price provided was great. 

happy little wolv.  :(

Glad to help out mate :P

I have a cover note with Unique for $1135.  40 yo, never had a claim, A1 rating etc etc.  Seems a bit high, Shannons was higher.... although I would reconsider if they come up with a better rate  :D

Luke, PM sent :wub:

  • 1 month later...
is price the single only issue when looking for insurance?

Nope,

Reputation & Service, Shannons wasn't the cheapest quote I got but I went with them as they did give me a better deal, agreed value, extras and cover for additional items (at no extra cost), excess is also an important issue, you don't want your car insurance to be like private health cover and be left with massive gaps if you need to call on it! (I sound a liitle too much like the TV ad now)

Cost is the most important thing, until you need to make a claim... then you want the other stuff to kick in big time I'd say!

Speaking as a policy holder and not having made a claim.

Luke

Great to hear your happy with the cover Luke, and Im happy to continue helping SAU members where I can.

I guess you never really appreciate your insurer and the cover they offer until you find yourself making a claim.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
×
×
  • Create New...