Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Howdy all,

I've just recieved my new happy A'pexi Super Happy Fun Power Funnel airfilter, and I was pondering what I had read in the AFM cleaning thread, whether I should do it or not.

Well, I did it. Here's the pictures for the people who aren't sure.

116-1605_IMG_small.jpg116-1606_IMG_small.jpg

Here's the old HKS filter pod, dirty as a dog's bum, along with the rest of the engine bay. On the right is the AFM, waiting for the cleaning of a lifetime.

116-1607_IMG_small.jpg116-1608_IMG_small.jpg

I decided to take the HKS pod and the AFM off in one piece, here on the left, I've undone the hose clamp and wiggled the AFM out... tight fit. There's the sensor data cable, give that tab on the left a really really good squeeze, it should click, and it should pop straight off.

116-1614_IMG_small.jpg116-1615_IMG_small.jpg

That's the front mesh there, it was utterly black when I got it out, I wiped all the gunk off the front, but I still ran a towel inside it later on. You can see some of the crap inside the afm, and this was after a blast with the contact cleaner

116-1616_IMG_small.jpg116-1619_IMG_small.jpg

Oh, here's the contact cleaner now, getting to know the AFM on their first date. The large chunks of wood are from an unrelated project. The rear mesh, or remains thereof, is on the right.

116-1620_IMG_small.jpg116-1622_IMG_small.jpg

The new air pod and the AFM meet, you can see on the right the total reaming of the old mesh area place thingy. That first photo is quite arty, with the ScibyLine just out of focus on the right... I could be a marketing photographer... or... er... maybe not.

116-1624_IMG_small.jpg116-1625_IMG_small.jpg

The pod and afm move in together, they certainly seem happy together so far, and all their bits fit perfectly. Maybe I'll here the sucky-sucky of little filters in the engine bay soon... and yes, the socket set is a new mod, good for another 30hp at the wheels. With a bit of tweaking on the 12mm socket, the ScibyLine will run 9's. True shit, bro.

Also reset the computer, and it all seems happy. Runs and idles much better, revs much freer down low and I accidentally... well... almost accidentally... okay fine, I dropped the clutch at about 5k and burnt the clutch for the 3rd time. You happy now?? :D

(Cleaning out the AFM seems to not hurt anything and I can see how it would be beneficial. It's part of my servicing now.)

okay fine, I dropped the clutch at about 5k and burnt the clutch for the 3rd time. You happy now??  

speaking of burning clutches I "accidently" did the same thing and had a horrible smell lingering around for a while....

is this a good thing? im thinking not how much abuse will the standard clutch take...(maybe this should be a new thread) oh well..

Originally posted by akeenan

 

speaking of burning clutches I "accidently" did the same thing and had a horrible smell lingering around for a while....

is this a good thing? im thinking not how much abuse will the standard clutch take...(maybe this should be a new thread) oh well..

Meh, I started the thread, so I'll forgive you...

No, stinky stinks are bad.

In this case, if you give it a bit and it feels like the engine is bellowing but the car ain't moving like it should, or like the wheels might be spinning, but there's no screeching, then the clutch is slipping. You'll get a horrible smell through the aircon. Just buy a new clutch plate because once they start dying, they die faster and faster.

Just buy a new clutch plate because once they start dying, they die faster and faster.

they certainly do!!!

i've just picked up an OS Twin Plate clutch... so hopefully no more slippage.

I'm looking at getting one of those Filters... i don't have an AFM at the moment, running MAP. But as i am in melbourne and there isn't anyone to tune HKS FCON's properly, i'm thinking of changing over to a Power FC and Z32 AFM

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
×
×
  • Create New...