Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

I have another mid week track day coming up. If you are interested PM me your email address and I'll get all the details out to you and put you on the list.

So far there are over 20 reservations for this day and filling to the max of 40.

Cost is $110

Most people do over 30 laps with the really keen getting over 40

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/68930-track-day-monday-may-9th/
Share on other sites

How it works:

I have a mailing list with everyone on it. When the next track day is coming around I send out an email and the first back to confirm get the spots.

We also have a pizza night about 2 weeks before track day for all the new people to meet and for the group to get together.

We have a maximum of 40 starters. This forms 5 groups of 8 cars. The cars are grouped based on lap times to minimise overtaking. We only allow overtaking on the long straights.

You get 1 warm up lap, 5 hot laps and a cool down lap per session. You can jump into other sessions as the day goes on and people pull out.

Typical to get between 30 and 40 laps depending how keen you are.

I have electronic timing gear that records to 1/100th of a second. I have also added a trap speed on the main straight. You will get an end of day print-out with all your laps and the best lap of everyone else on the day. Recently I have added track temp and ambient temp to the printout. We are also working on a giant sign so you can see lap times live.

You have to have the normal sprint day clothing and helmet.

All the rest of the info is in the email I send you when you PM me your details.

I'd love to see some regulars make any further comment on the day !!

I will probably be at the May 9th day, seeing as the other one I think is going to struggle to find numbers. And apparently everybody thinks their skyline is the most fragile car ever made.

I have been to two days so far, one in my clapped out daily driver R31 (as i was still waiting on the 32 at the time), which did fine in warm heat.. this is a car nearly 20 years old, still pretty much stock as they come and past the 300,000km mark. Sure I was probably the slowest, but I had great fun and learned a heap about the whole day. Nothing broke.

The other was in the R32 as stock as they come auto (with only brakes and decent tyres), and again in 37 degree track temperature the car had no dramas, and I had a blast. Nothing broke.

I think the main fear seems to be car failure and of the wallet.. but of all the cars the other week.. all left under their own steam.

Just get out there. It's $200 at the end of the day, and maybe a day off work, but boy.. is it one awesome day if you love driving hard! I couldn't really think of a better way to spend $200 myself -- there is not much better you can do, and I've done a few of the adventure things over the years.

p.s. it impresses the chicks.. lol

I got the email, thanks GTRman.. I'm going to try and rope in one of my best mates who just imported a TT 300zx, and my neighbour who has a WRX :)

If my car is ready for the day, I will be doing the run in a completely stock standard r32 gtr. It will be great to get a time to work from.

Excellent. Get them to send me an email and I'll put them on the list.

I'd love to see a Stock GTR run, gives you an idea if mods are going in the right direction.

I'm assuming that this is at Queensland Raceway? I should have my GTR back together by then after popping a turbo in the hot laps at Cruisetime

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @Haggerty you still haven't answered my question.  Many things you are saying do not make sense for someone who can tune, yet I would not expect someone who cannot tune to be playing with the things in the ECU that you are.  This process would be a lot quicker to figure out if we can remove user error from the equation. 
    • If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
×
×
  • Create New...