Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well I've just pulled the turbo off my GTT which is 7/99 series one and put it next to one from an R33 series one.

First thing is that on the side of the compressor covers the R33 one has 45 v 1 whereas the R34 one has 45 v 4 on it.

The compressor covers appear identical.

Now I know this goes contrary to popular opinion but the R34 compressor wheel appears to be metal just like the R33 one.

On the R33 compressor side outlet there is a 1 cast on the outside and a 3 printed on the inside. On the R34 these are both 2's.

On the exhaust housing on the r33 one is cast 307B 2IU, a bit further round there is an 8.. The equivalent on the R34 one is 527A OP6 and further round a 9.

On the other side of the exhaust housing we have F 2IU (R33) and E OP6 (R34).

One thing that is definitely noticable but a bit hard to measure is that the R34 exhaust housing is bigger than the other one. Also the entry port from the manifold is wider on the R34 by about 1mm or so in both directions.

Anyway, I just thought I'd post this for general information. Perhaps people can add their knowledge to it. Maybe if someone has an R33 series 2 turbo or R32 one off the car in front of them they could post the equivalent details.

post-7957-1151318629.jpg

post-7957-1151318643.jpg

Search words : identify R33 R34 NEO turbo difference 45v1 45v2 45v3 45v4

What kind of sound does it make when you tap it with your fingernail?

I had assumed my R34 turbo was plastic/nylon/whatever till I did this and it sounded tinny so I dug out the old one to check and they seem to be the same. They also look the same as the pic you have posted.

Hmm, What does yours say, 45v????

Yeah, we should link this to the Stock Boost for R34 thread. The R34 compressor wheel is nylon plastic crap and isnt as strong as the 33.

But as I also mentioned, some series 2's came with a steel wheel but, as soon as i find solid evidence, ill post.

Hmm, it's looking like the other turbo I have is series 2 R33. Can one of you R33 owners look at that link I posted above and tell if the car is series one or two. That's the car this turbo came from.

Anyone want to post a pic of the turbo side on so we can see the size of the exhaust housing?

This 45v1.2.3. thing is weird.

Abo i'm 95% sure that's a SII R33.

* Bonnet lips down over the center grill.

* Headlights (im pretty sure on this part).

* The panel at the rear between the bottom of the boot and the top-middle of the bumper (S1 is a clear plastic from memory).

  • 4 months later...

Series 1, S2, S3 GTT use different turbo

"14411-AA100"

s1 is nylon plastic with single blade

post-1812-1124278430.jpg

"14411-AA110"

s2 is metal with twin blade, same size as s1

post-1812-1124278548.jpgpost-1812-1124278746.jpg

"14411-AB000"

s3 is metal with twin blade, made by garrett instead of nissan, bigger than s2

post-1812-1124278846.jpgpost-1812-1124278960.jpg

basicly, If your NEO engine cover W/O RED wording...that's S2 or S3

more detail about difference between s1,2,3 (japanese)

http://2style.net/r34sedan/hikaku/hikakutop.htm

Edited by Maxx

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ha, well, it's been.... a bit of a journey. Things have taken much longer than I'd hoped. I'll probably put up a thread at some stage. Hopefully soon. The car's not done any kms since my update in June though, put it that way.
    • Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
    • Those comp test results are not hideous. Whether they are accurate or not (ie, when that comp tester says 140 psi, is the real pressure120, 140 or 160?) is unknown to us. The state of the battery used to crank it over is unknown, etc etc. Many people around here would say that the absolute values and the spread are perfectly fine to just add boost and keep going. I personally would be happier with a narrower spread than that, but even the diff between 125 and 145 is not terrible. That one cylinder at 125 though, has probably copped some damage relative to the others. You should inspect the valves seeing as you've got it open. Do you know how to measure installed ring gaps? That, and an inspection of the rings themselves, is how you will determine whether they need to be replaced. If you're not good to do these things, take the block and the pistons and rings to a shop that is, and ask them for the go/no-go on them. Do the bores need a hone at all? If so, you might well be justified in getting some different pistons in order to get away from the ring supply problem. Whether you're happy to spend a lot more money right now, on more gear, rather than less money, but an amount that looks stupid given that you will only get a handful of rings in exchange for that money, is for you to decide.
    • also possibly backed up to my filler and shat down it! 🤣
    • Ok so i would love some advice here please, i purchased an R33 a few months back and its had a few mods done to the engine, its an RB25det running a Master ECU, 1200cc injectors, bigger turbo, oil cooler, oil filter relocation kit, Spool H-beam rods, acl/ross pistons. When i removed the motor from the vehicle (as its getting a respray) i thought i would compression test it and these are the following results. Cylinder 1-145psi, Cylinder 2-143psi, Cylinder 3-125psi, Cylinder 4-145psi, Cylinder 5-140psi, Cylinder 6-135psi this test was done with the motor on the ground and powering up the starter motor. I dropped the sump and found broken oil squirters on cylinder 3,5 and 6. I was told my rings are probably worn so i stripped the motor completely to get a new set of rings for it. The trouble is no one has these rings anywhere and they have to be custom made by Ross over in the states and will cost about $600+$200 delivery. My question is how can i tell if my rings are at fault and if they are still ok and is this price ok for a set of rings?
×
×
  • Create New...