Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

lol.. your old clutch didn't look too healthy though cubes :D

there is some good info on stockists and part numbers and all the rest at www.xtremeclutch.com.au - it is the same clutch for R32 and r33 :D

I am not sure whether just to just get an exchange on the old one when i do the manual conv, or go for something else.. like the Excedy.. which i really liked on the old car.

  • Replies 66
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

The pressure plate is fine.

Grab a clutch plate, maybe even the 9puk ceramic and bolt it up. :D

Much cheaper than buying the whole lot. The pressure plate was driven fairly easy (no clutch drops) so its still in good nick. :D

With the 1tonne clutch I find I don't sit with my foot on the clutch.

I always throw it in neutral. Peak hour traffic makes your leg damn sore and begin to shake. :D

The 800kg clutch didn't hurt my leg in peak hour traffic.

For 230rwkw go for a 800kg pressure plate & a 9puk ceramic cushioned clutch plate.

I wouldn't use an organic full face clutch for 200rwkw+. Ride it a little in first and it will slip in second. :(

With the 1tonne clutch I find I don't sit with my foot on the clutch.

I always throw it in neutral. Peak hour traffic makes your leg damn sore and begin to shake. :D

 

The 800kg clutch didn't hurt my leg in peak hour traffic.

 

For 230rwkw go for a 800kg pressure plate & a 9puk ceramic cushioned clutch plate.

I wouldn't use an organic full face clutch for 200rwkw+. Ride it a little in first and it will slip in second. :(

Thanks - I will get that then.

Ceramic cushioned clutch plate...

That's this one right?

Dampened Centre, cushioned segment between lining, Multiple sintered button lining bonded to steel backing. Sintered lining offers greater torque capacity, much higher coefficient of friction and higher heat stability and dissipation.

Offers great driveability with the advantages of using a sintered lining, relatively smooth and positive engagement, suited for street and sprint use.

The same as the 2nd one on the list http://www.xtremeclutch.com.au/knowledge_ratings.htm - if that's the one you're recommending then I'll get that one.

Clutches have been confusing me for the last 2 weeks of been looking for one :D

Thanks again for your help.

Second on the list is the 1000kg. hence XHD and the one I have now that handles around 300rwkw.

The 800kg is the first one on the list, a little lighter on the foot but more than enough performance for 230rwkw.

DCBHD is the one I would look at if I was in your postion.

I have a 9 puck XHD on the way as well after the diaphram in my twin plate snapped in 2 and it was in need of new plates as well on opening it up. As it was only a TS2A (380hp rated) i dont think it would have been up for the caning it would get behind the rb25 anyway.

I'm currently driving around with my stock RB20 clutch in, so nice to drive after a 1000kg bitey unsprung super light clutch and flywheel combo.

So hopefully the new clutch is nice to drive. I'm a bit more confident after reading this thread.

i have the xtreme 9 puk version, its not THAT heavy and drives very nice (espec compared to the triple plate i had) however after doing a couple launches (gtr) it doesnt seem to fully grip as best as id like it to - as in it slips or cant take the load well.. The triple plate was amazing but undrivable as a daily

Second on the list is the 1000kg. hence XHD and the one I have now that handles around 300rwkw.

 

The 800kg is the first one on the list, a little lighter on the foot but more than enough performance for 230rwkw.

 

DCBHD is the one I would look at if I was in your postion.

Thanks Cubes, I'll get that one.

How many puk is this ? (what's a puk!?) :P It's 9 right? the number of contact area things?

Sorry for the questions but I've heard alot of terms and none of them really seem to 'match up'/be comparable.

me.. tuner? heh don't have one :P

I'll take your word for it. I'm basically looking for a clutch 3-4 steps up from a organic HD and 1-2 steps down from a brass button (ie can be hard to use but prefer it to be a little lighter and would prefer a bit of ride).

So - all is good, if it takes my power level that's what I'm mainly concerned with. I just hope it doesn't kill my gearbox + flywheel :)

Cheers for your help.

emailed horsepowerinabox, they offer that clutch Cubes has pictured for $750 delivered.  

"Xtreme DCB unit in Xtra Heavy duty 50% over OEM"

Pretty sure the one for $550 offers 100% over OEM.

Got quoted from them for $625 delivered for KNI24003DCBXHD.

This is the 1 tonne clutch kit (extra hd)..

As Cubes suggested I'm trying to get a quote for the KNI24003DCBHD which is the HD not XHD (the 800kg one) which, is cheaper.

Anyone with a skyline please don't use these part numbers as they are for a SR20DET!

I'm wondering why the quote you got is more than $100 more? Surely the SR and RB clutch kits can't be that different?

  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Just trying to get my head around this. At 5psi of boost, you turn on your wmi pump, and then you're using a 3000cc injector, to allow flow upto the actual engine, where you have your 6x200cc injectors and a 500cc injector. If the above is correct, what advantage are you obtaining by having the 3000cc injector blocking flow, is this just incase a line breaks between that injector and the motor you can stop flow immediately? Or are the 6x200cc and 500cc less injectors and just spray nozzle?
    • Welcome! New member myself, but I had an R33 back in 2002. Best advice I could give, based on my experience: if you're running the factory turbo, be very conservative with boost. I made the mistake of just fiddling around with the boost controller and cranking the boost for fun, and the end result was my intake pipes popping off frequently from the constant deluge of oil that was being blown into the recirc by the stressed-out turbo, which itself was siphoning oil from the engine and farting it out both sides of its centre bearing (or something to that effect). If I could do it all again, I would have gotten a new turbo and had a tune dialled in professionally and then just left it alone! Funny you mention the metal shavings in the gearbox, as I had the same thing - the probe plug (magnetic drain plug, essentially) would come out caked with shavings. At least it was doing its job. Not sure if that's just sacrificial wear and part of the deal, or if my gearbox was shagged, but I wasn't abusing it. Enjoy the R33 - they're a dying breed, and if they weren't $35k+ on CarSales in Queensland, I might have picked up one of those again, instead of the 370GT I own now (though I'm loving the 370GT, that big 3.7L V6 just hits different).
    • Howdy folks. I owned an R33 back in 2002, which was thoroughly beyond my capacity (financially speaking) to maintain/insure, so we parted ways in 2004. Fast forward 21 years (to literally yesterday, in fact) and I'm now the proud owner of a 2007 V36 370GT. I'm happily surprised by how much power the VQ37VHR makes, compared to the RB25DET, considering the latter is turbocharged. I had planned to add a turbo at some point but I'm on the fence about whether I'll even need it (though I do love the sudden onset of extra torque). Any other 370GT owners around the traps, I'd love to hear about your experiences with this car (good and bad).
    • Perhaps the answer is... more jacks!* *proper jacks must be used.  
    • I NEVER think about using a scissor jack unless there is absolutely no other alternative. f**king things are dangerous, annoying and stupid.
×
×
  • Create New...