Jump to content
SAU Community

rattle in the stearing wheel


ApleX
 Share

Recommended Posts

Hey guys i was wondering if anyone has had this problem?

I was driving yesterday and then i started hearing a rattle in the stearing wheel when i turned it.. I took the middle bit off and had a look there to see if there was anything looks, but there wasnt. it almost sounds like its on the thin bit round the outside of the wheel....

Anyone know what i should do ?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

yup i had this

theres a peice of plastic that sits between the skin and the horn button, mine had somehow shattered into 1inch shards and they would rattle and clunk around whenever i turned a corner.

I found the cause when i removed my old wheel to put a new momo on. after i removed the front cover and looked inside it i could see all the bits sliding around.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

ApleX,

It's no biggie really.

Mine had been making little sounds for ages of the plastic moving around etc, and I didn't bother with it until my Hicas light started coming on.

Took it apart and found that the small plastic bits had been interfering with the optical signal going through the little slots of the sensor shown above.

Just shook the bits out of the sensor etc etc.

All good.

El Bee

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 6.3-8.3nm....pretty damn light those fine m6 threads in the aluminium retainer plate are very easy to strip
    • What are the torque specs for those 6 bolts on the retainer plate and 4 oil pan bolts? I'm currently tackling this job during an auto to manual conversion... I thought this would a 5 minute job! 
    • Tryna decide if I should get a skirt coating on my cp 2618 forged pistons that im about to order. Anyone have first hand experience with a forged RB with coated or non coated piston skirts? Is it worth it and does it make much difference? And for people who went with 2618 pistons with no skirt coating how long has your engine lasted? The engine is an rb25/30 and main concern is  that It will be a daily car and will probably see a fair bit of short distance driving, have been told by my machine shop and my tuner that generally a forged engine lasts around 40,000kms before needing a rebuild. Would a skirt coating make much of a difference? cheers 
    • From now on read it as minus 5 and minus 7 instead of dash, and you're correct...
    • Opened up the cluster to inspect the gauge itself for signs of damage and it looks good. Got curious since that needle doesn't go back to a "neutral" position by itself (it stays in the same position when ignition is off. so I manually moved it to 1/2. Connected it back, turned on the ignition and the needle started moving up! Not sure what's up with that but before that the needle was way down below empty like fully south west. There's always a chance that the needle moved slightly the first time I tried and I didn't notice because of how slowly it moves and how far it was from the markings. I don't know if the current needle position is accurate so I'll fill it up and see where that brings it. I guess I'll try to adjust it manually if it doesn't get to F. Looks like the needle position is relative and not absolute? Thanks all for your help and patience!
×
×
  • Create New...