300rwhp (225rwkw)... what does it take?

[Guest Nismo_Freak]

My target is 300rwhp w/o swapping the stock turbo. This would be 300rwhp in American terms if that means anything, I have yet to figure out if there is a difference. What would I need to do this without swapping the turbo and how reliable would it be. I will have a large aluminum radiator for sure since my stock 240SX one would explode.

[meggala]

which engine rb 26

seriously the rb25 turbo you can just squeeze 300 hp may be 320 hp @ the fly wheel they have ceramic wheel not much boost 1bar or so.

but you can get them hiflowed to the 450 hp mark

meggala

[T0nyGTSt]

224kW (300hp) is trivial on a RB25DET.

I'm hoping for 246kW (330hp) from my '25 with minimal mods (ie. FC + AVC-R, FMIC, BOV, pod, 3" pipe etc.)

This is flywheel. I don't expect any more than 200rWkW...

T.

[benm]

I think 225rwkw would be very easy to achieve, to begin with.

My '95 R33 GTS-T

192rwkw @ 12psi

168rwkw @ 8psi

Mods:

Cat back exhaust

HKS Pod Filter

FMIC

2 Stage boost controller

I was only using 96 octane and havent had a tune or oil change in 7,500km either.

http://skylines.pnc.com.au

[meggala]

yeah ben on the dyno you uses even I could get there it seems abit optimisic to me considering the stock r33 turbo is good for 180 rwkw on most dyno's

[benm]

I had it dyno'd 2 weeks ago with about 25 other cars, it went well i thought.

[Guest Nismo_Freak]

Ok heres what I have planned:

RB25DET

Hybrid FMIC w/ Custom Piping

Apexi GT-Spec Exhaust (3.75")

Custom 3.5" Downpipe to Exhaust (No Cat)

Apexi Intake w/ Homemade Cold Air Box

Greddy Profec B Boost Controller

Walbro 255Lph Fuel Pump

HKS SSQV BOV

Single Disc 6-puck Clutch

Cusco LSD (1.5 or 2 way)

Apexi Turbo Timer

Greddy Boost Gauge

Redline 75w140 Gear Oil in Tranny

Amsoil 10w30 in Motor (too thin?)

Boost im prolly gonna set at 12 psi unless the turbo can handle 14psi and be reliable for a while.

Edit* - Replaced S-AFC w/ POWER FC

[meggala]

sounds very good nismo freak which engine is it the seies 1 engine or series 2 engine ?

series 1 engine you can run 14 psi series 2 I would stick to 12 psi

ben I'm not doubting that was the figure you made but some dyno's are very optimistic thats ~~~

drdrifts old car only made 170 rwkw but ran a 108 mph at the drags which says closer to 200 rwkw if you get what I'm, saying some read high some read low its hard to campare apples with apples

meggala

[benm]

I know what your saying.....

only had the car for 2.5mths so after i put abit of money into it i'll get it dyno'd at some other places... Unless SAU has dyno days elsewhere.

[meggala]

you better to go to the same dyno that way you know what your gains are

[Steve]

Nismo_Freak

So far I have the following mods

3" custom dump and front, high flow cat, 3" N1 style cat back

Hybrid FMIC with 3" pipwork

Pod with cold air partition

Power FC with Boost controller

Turbosmart BOV

9 button clutch

plus (irrelevant to this thread) various suspension, TT, boost guage, etc

On a dyno dynamics dyno, made 260rwhp at 0.85 bar (254 at 0.7 bar) when the clutch started slipping and the power curve flat lined. Of further concern was that the AFM maxed out at 4500rpm and the curve 'fell over'. I am sure with the clutch now fixed and a Z32 afm on its way, that I will be able to get a little more, however from what I have read of other peoples experience, and my tuner's advice, a stock R33 turbo would not be able to support 300rwhp (about 408bhp it think). As for your fuel pump, not too sure you would need to replace it as my injectors were running at 77%, perhaps you could get away with just a fuel pressure regulator instead? Also of a bit of concern at the moment is traction. I am running 255/40/17 goodyear revspecs and although they are one of the better gripping tyres, power oversteer (which is alot of fun) and straight line traction off the mark are starting to become issues.

Some food for thought anyways

Steve

EDIT: Just notice you are talking dynojet type dyno? I believe that the figure I quoted above would probably make it past the 300rwhp if it was done on a dynojet - from the comments I have read in other threads about the differences between dynodynamics and dynojet.

[confak]

My mods,

R33 gtst

3" turbo back exhaust.

No cat

custom FMIC

Brass button clutch

higher boost on standard turbo.

HKS airpod.

On a dyno dymatics with 11psi my car did 197rwkw

On a dynodymatics at a skyline meet with 13psi my car did 180rwkw.

This should show the inconsistancy of the dynos.

I think that 180rwkw is the correct figure (and meggala can vowge for that).

[Guest Nismo_Freak]

Ok .... thanks for the info. I need to get a brandname on the clutch. What would hold alot of power and not slip while being cheap and streetable? Also I forgot to include I would run a Z32 MAF. I have also been looking into a pulley kit for the RB since on the VG30DETT UR Pulleys dynoed another 30hp @ the wheels (Dynojet).

[macka]

Key elements on 225kw@wheels would be I think

PowerFC or similar management

Turbo Choice

You should do this with stock injectors and stock AFM

but upgraded fuel pump running no more than 15-16psi on the standard compression

[macka]

Originally posted by Nismo_Freak

Ok .... thanks for the info. I need to get a brandname on the clutch. What would hold alot of power and not slip while being cheap and streetable? Also I forgot to include I would run a Z32 MAF. I have also been looking into a pulley kit for the RB since on the VG30DETT UR Pulleys dynoed another 30hp @ the wheels (Dynojet).

You dont get nothin for nothin Nismo_freak

300rwhp your gonna need a 5puck bruss button clutch minimum or twin plate if u are gonna drag race fairly often.....

I have just under 300hp and cooked my 2500lb clutch last night at the drags on 2nd run of 2nd outing (clutch is 3 months old)

[GTS-t VSPEC]

I agree with Macka, getting the 300rwhp isn't that difficult, but having reliability aswell is not so easy. At 260+hp you may well have to look at a heavy duty or twin-plate clutch, weak points in the engine such as pistons may start to show themselves.

But to get the 300rwhp is going to require you running the turbo at stressful levels. Even though the turbo can just support those levels it is not going to last particularly long at 1bar.

Just some things to keep in mind.

See'ya:burnout:

[croat]

meggala how much does it cost to get your turbo hi-flowed, and how long does it take for them to do it?

[G0DF4Th3R]

meggala, you were saying that boost should be kept to 12 psi on series II but 14 psi on series one....why is that?

[macka]

Sorry ill butt in if Megs cant get online for awhile...

GODF4Th3R Series 2 came out with a Plastic impeller turbo wheel which spools faster but in turn can break away under higher boost!

Croat Your going to be paying $1500-$1800 for a good quality Highflow which is now starting to prove a very good move for alot of owners...no oil or water line changes, no dump pipe or compressor inlet or outlet changes which saves alot of $$ which people sometimes dont consider..

Hope i didnt butt in!

Cheers

[G0DF4Th3R]

thanks macka.....