Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 96
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

West: what size tyres are you running? You know its bad to run different size rims/tyres on a GTR right? messes with the ATTESA.

Yeah, i got the car like that, it has 235 front and 265rear. Benno warn me about the ATTESA as well. Also you guys know what rims are these?

Looks like i'll be getting it depend on the financial situation.

Dumping the clutch or side stepping it will break driveshafts, stuff uni's and stuff your clutch center... If you watch all the japs how they do it is the nicest possible way for the best result.

Pull your handbrake on and leave your hand on it pulled up bring the revs to around 6.5+ and pull the clutch out till you can feel the car fighting the handbrake, from here release the handbrake and clutch at the same time and your away.... SOunds hard but by doing this the clutch is already semi engaged and nearly up to speed and all the slack has been taken from all your driveline components. Sure it burns the clutch a little but its no worse than any other method!!!!

The man speaks the truth. This is the only method I have ever used

Yeah, i got the car like that, it has 235 front and 265rear. Benno warn me about the ATTESA as well. Also you guys know what rims are these?

Looks like i'll be getting it depend on the financial situation.

These be Enkei's

elem_detail_nt03m_s.jpg

Gotta say, I have to agree with GZ R33.

I have never seen or heard of a standard GTR pull an 11 sec quarter.  :bs!:

Its common for a std GTR to pull an 11 - but when people say std they mean std engine/turbos... usually aftermarket exaust/air filter and more boost....

Its the only mod i could do for it :P

I think i recognise that gtr in your avatar :aroused:

It has a trust 6 speed box and gold centre bbs wheels if its the one i think it is ;)

Very nice car..... any bigger pics of it? i currently have a crappy small pic as my wallpaper. :wassup:

Its common for a std GTR to pull an 11 - but when people say std they mean std engine/turbos... usually aftermarket exaust/air filter and more boost....

Lightly modified would be better said. Must of been one hell of a driver to pull an 11sec even with boost, exhaust and filter. :wizard:

there was a guy on here with an R32 GTR std turbos/injectors etc.. that pulled 11.7's consistently...

Personally my best as 12.4 but that was only on 5 or so runs then my gearbox went bang :)

I think i could of got alot closer to a 12 flat.. track wasn't in the best condition and i couldn't launch right...

exaust/filter/boost and cam gears tuned i make 260-280rwkw (depending on dyno) std turbos/injectors... I have pretty hard suspension and stuff setup more for track work than drag work.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
×
×
  • Create New...