Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

just had my gt30 500hp turbo with internal wastegate fitted, my rb25 pulled 260rwkws at 20psi and 229 rwkws at 13psi. just wanting any feed back from anyone else who maybe running similar combo. car goes really hard now, even though im very happy with the results would upgrading my cams make any difference tp peak power or would the results be miniscule compared to the outlay and cost???? would be interested in peoples thoughts and opinions?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/69833-gt-30-dyno-results/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 159
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I have a mate with a GT30 with the smallest ex housing (0.63) making 353rwhp at 19 psi on a FJ20. Engine standard apart from cams + pistons. He made this on pump fuel.

I think your car being a 2.5 has much much left in it. Fuel limits the FJs to about 350rwhp so you should make 430 rwhp no probs. Obviously you have problems with airflow into the engine and in addition maybe the tune is conservative. My advice for making the 430rwhp: Get some tomei cams and upgrade from those pissy 240 degree 7.8mm cams....they're holding you back enormously. Get some 270s and your power will be there.

I get my car tuned next week tuesday so Ill let you know how it goes.

exactly.

my 600HP GT30 - with the GT series wheel (6 blade) makes 270rwkw on 16psi.

So an int Gated version of the 500HP variety wont make anymore.

I'd be very happy wtih the result.

CAMS might get you a little, but stock 25DET heads are pretty good for 300rwkw with the stockers

There are .63 ARR housings and .63 ARR housings . If its the poor old Nissan cast T3 housing reprofiled your on your own . This combination is known not to work properly . Garrett does make a proper .63 version of the GT30 84 trim housing which works well on FJ20's . If you must have an integral waste gate housing HKS do them in .68 and .87 for the PRO S version of their GT3037 which is the same CHRA as the GT30R and has the T3 flange . These housings are expensive but cheap compared to external gates and custom manifolds and good enough for the street .

My opinions cheers A .

Yes , that CHRA in Garrett speak in Pt no 700382-12 for the same thing . Some Garrett BB CHRA's need the locating groove machined 1-2 mm deeper into

early HkS housings but its a std thing nowdays . There was once a string at a US SR20 site about someone using one of ATP's (Garretts) GT3071R's in a T28 flanged .73 ARR HKS housing and it needed this mod . In that case the 3071R CHRA was being substituted for a damaged 3037 core so the original assembly was an early build HKS turbo . 90% of them go bolt .

GCG said they can get them for about $800 though I enquired some time ago . These use HKS's GT Pro outlet on the back so you may need to make a dump pipe for it .

Cheers A .

I have a mate with a GT30 with the smallest ex housing (0.63) making 353rwhp at 19 psi on a FJ20. Engine standard apart from cams + pistons. He made this on pump fuel.

I think your car being a 2.5 has much much left in it. Fuel limits the FJs to about 350rwhp so you should make 430 rwhp no probs. Obviously you have problems with airflow into the engine and in addition maybe the tune is conservative. My advice for making the 430rwhp: Get some tomei cams and upgrade from those pissy 240 degree 7.8mm cams....they're holding you back enormously. Get some 270s and your power will be there.

I get my car tuned next week tuesday so Ill let you know how it goes.

hey dude,

just wondering, do u feel that the GT30R is laggy on the street with the A/R .82 exhaust housing?

when do u roughly get full boost?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
    • Pull codes via the self-diagnosis procedure. As far as I can tell this is just a sign of transmission issues but not a code unto itself.
    • Hi All, putting the engine back together and everything is perfect except have this plug left over.. any ideas what it is for and where it goes? Is on cold side under the intake plenum *note not a stock plug, as everything has been modified Cheers
×
×
  • Create New...