Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 70
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I try not to shift gear at 3000 too often, any more is abit ouchie for the engine i think. Most of the time in good trafic condition I rev to 2500 then shift.

hehe, i think your missing all the fun, rb25 is quite capable of handling double theses revs happily :headspin: .

very rarely do i shift at anything less than 2.5k, unless in traffic.

does that make me a hoon?? :D

I use 3rd around town, only really get into fifth once I'm on a highway or something... I can't imagine using 5th in my car around town would be very punchy...

Um, I stay in 5th gear at any speed I want, even if its 50kph. It dosent take that much to keep your speed on the flats.

If I want more torque, I use the clutch and shift gears to whatever gear is appropriate (ie 4th or 3rd). When I'm done though it always goes back to 5th.

u guys are either petrol conservative or grannys in the making :P

You should never labor your car in high gear be that 2nd ,3rd th or 5th under 1500-2000rpm. I shift Up to 3000-3300rpm and change every gear unless my car is cold. Also 5th gear doesnt come into effect till im at LEAST 80KPH and drop bak to 4th till im at 60 KPH and into 3rd . :( call me a lead foot but thats just me

Some of you guys need to get some RB30ET torque up ya :(

When i'm in the mood I regularly just trundle around my suburb etc in 5th which is from around 50kmh.

I also quite regularly skip gears ie Only use 1st 2nd 4th.

Hope soon to come RB26DETT has some useableable down low torque, as I'm becoming quite fond of it :P

Granny Driving...

revs stay at 2000rpm when cruising, drop down when below and shift up at 3000

3rd - 40kph - 60kph

4th - 60kph - 80kph

5th - 80kph or greater

Normal driving...

a tad different.... the 2000 rpm cruise rule is kept, but gears become...

3rd - 40:D

One thing to remember is that you want yr rpm to be such that if you change down you end up in the meaty rev range, this means that dropping a gear and hammering is always an option and you'll avoid bogging the turbo down.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • A 1.5 way is a 2 way. It is just a 2 way with a less aggressive ramp on overrun.
    • The ABS and/or TCS being missing/broken will not cause the engine to misbehave. It just casues CEL to come on and annoy you. The CEL is useless if it is always on, so you have to do the things you have to do to get rid of it, so it can be useful. Being a Stag ECU, then yes, it will not expect TCS to be present. But it will expect ABS to be present and working. You will need to either make the ABS CU talk to the ECU (don't ask me what that will take on an NA R34), and make sure the hardware is working....or, you just need to blank it out in Nistune. Do not persist with the stock ECU. You will just have problems. Gte it Nistuned. Start from there. DO YOU HAVE A BOOST SENSOR? The ECU's boost sensor that it. It is connected to the loom at the rear of the coil cover. Usually rides on the firewall on an R34, but is usually bolted down to a bracket along with all the other crap at the back of the coil cover when a Neo is dropped into another car. If you do not have it, the ECU will shit the bed. So, do you have one?
    • So sadly the fuel pump etc was not it. The pump and filter is new and it is still cutting around 4000 rpm. A read something about ABS/TCS (engine is from stagea and ECU too so no TCS) and i dont know for 100% that my car has ABS. It has ABS "cube" in engine bay but i dont think it works(or at least from my braking experience). Can be something like that?  I will be driving the car next week to Nistune tuner to properly see what is wrong...  
    • the Tomei LSD fluid with lsd kit. frustrated that it was shaking the car to crap and affecting everything else negatively, I pulled the diff last night, and removed the lsd carrier, could not find anything wrong, however it seem to be 100 locked up acceleration, and deacceleration, wondering if they sent me a 2 way not a 1.5??  either way I installed the stock open carrier back in place. test drove everything smooth as butter again. no shake, shutter, random, what felt like clutch slip and grab or drive shaft play, etc. something differently wrong in side the lsd. I might bother taking it apart (if possible) to figure out what's going on inside this carrier, as bought too long ago to return.  only draw back is its back to a one wheel wonder.
×
×
  • Create New...