Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 63
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Just curious as to what everyone is running component wise in there ride and where abouts have they installed everything???

Nissan CW726 head unit (5" lcd display, useless ntsc tv tuner, am/fm, eq)

Nissan 6 CD Stacker

factory speakers in rear and doors, all of which have just about fallen to bits)

I'm off to Freeway car audio in dandenong asap to get some decent speakers fitted all round. Think i'll leave the CW726 in place for the moment, the TV wont tune our TV stations but the rest of it works just fine.

I hope to get them to fit some 6x9" (with an adaptor) in the rears and some decent 6" with splits for the doors. Dunno if I should go a subby or not, we'll see.....

mike

Finally recieved the HU and DSP at MAS and the Focal Utopias arrived yesterday :cheers: probably finish off with 2 SoundStream XTA720.4 and an Eclipse sub. I will be starting the ripping out of interiour bits and measuring on the w/e. Hmmm should take pics and write up a tute from a noob's perspective while riping everything out.

Finally recieved the HU and DSP at MAS and the Focal Utopias arrived yesterday :D probably finish off with 2 SoundStream XTA720.4 and an Eclipse sub. I will be starting the ripping out of interiour bits and measuring on the w/e. Hmmm should take pics and write up a tute from a noob's perspective while riping everything out.

Sounds like a pretty sweet set up you going to put in, two thumbs up for the pics and tute, sounds like a good idea there. Help noob's out as you say :D

eurovox cassette deck

kmart 2" speakers on the dash

**** smiths 4" 2ohm speakers in the rear doors

and a sony discman with a tape in adapter

c'mon as if mine isn't the best ever :D how good was eurovox

all class

c'mon as if mine isn't the best ever :D how good was eurovox

 

all class

Mate, me still thinks yours would win contests for sure (not going to say which ones though :wassup: )

And yeah your right champ, Eurovox is all ar.... SORRY my BAD. You said class didn't you :headspin:

  • 2 weeks later...
ok so we have learned from experience that sony is shit has anyone ever installed a vdo head unit and how do they compare with the likes of say pioneer  :ghost:

Its all personal preference really tin, its if you like the HU, its got the features looking for and will do for the install you looking at. Its the price range and easy to use. VDO are a good budget HU but dont go past the JVC MP3 range either. Pioneer are a good deck with dual and sub pre outs (sub control) and are fairly easier to use. Any HU that has at aleast 2 pre outs (and sub control if your running them) that has a frequency range and mp3 then your laughing all the way to the bank mate :P

Have just been down to the local guys to see what they can do to help replace the cassette player that is in the car at the moment and ended up walking out of there with half the gear but ended up with a nice Alpine H/U CDA 9851 and some splits for the front also Alpine SPR-17LS and hopefully in 2 weeks time will get the rest being a 4 channel amp and Type R 61/2" for the rear that should give me a bit better sound... just have to decide on if I am going to need the sub or not

ok so we have learned from experience that sony is shit

mate, experience the cdx-c90 / 4000 processor combo or any xES ranges and say that again. sony makes a LOT of garbage, but too many people forget they have some seriously, seriously serious gear too! i wouldn't part with my sony ES home redbook cd player for the world!!!

anyway, my system isnt installed yet. its driving me nuts!!! and i still haven't gotten off my backside to get it in! all this nice gear and its on my shelf.... :D been seriously considering just leaving it to marty to do for me cos i don't have the free time. plus, fibreglassing in a canberra winter is about as fun as poking yourself in the eye.

bits consist of:

headunit: clarion drx-9255

processor: orion concept 97.2 (limited ed. deq30 in funky enclosure, basically...) (balance line)

xover: phoenix gold zpx2 3way active (balance line)

amps: 2x phoenix gold zpa0.3v2 amps (balance line)

midbass: dynaudio mw160

tweet: either morel supremo or dynaudio esotar (undecided)

ambient tweet: dynaudio mw100 if i use them.

sub: image dynamics idmax, adire audio brahma or 2x soundstream reference ss12r (depending on what sort of enclosure i use - ap enclosure for the SS's or sealed for the brahma/max)

cables will be custom for the audio side of things and stinger/aerpro for power. got a yellowtop waiting in the wings as well.

sound deading will be g-spot and heavy duty dense-as felt i get for a song down here in ACT.

when it all goes in i'll make a song and dance about it.... otherwise my system is useless ! :cuss:

hehe

d

Kenwood 9020R deck

MB Quart DSD 213 front splits running of a 2000q cadence amp

JL 10inch 10W3v2 running off a 600s coustic amp, still in a prefab box.

Kenwood 10stacker.

Sound deadening consitis of!

1x road kill door kit

1x tac mat kit

1x 1/2 focal plain chant kit (ie 2 bricks per door)

and fresh made speaker pods.

Thats my gear. In time I will eventually get around to a better sub install, set up properly etc, probably use my cadence amp for the 5 1/4 inch drivers, put them in as rear fill, then get a new amp and some 6 1/2 inch reference drivers (they are sold as just a driver) and put them as an upgrade to the front. I think for what Im trying to achive that will be fine. At least until I get money for something insane.

Headunit; Pioneer DEXP1.

Amps;

Pioneer GMX904x Driving Subwoofers

Clarion APA 4 channel running mains.

Speakers;

PG Tantrum X 6.0cs Components

Alpine TypeS 6.5" coaxls

Subs;

Pioneer TSW303c's x2 In custom Sealed Inclosure.

Stinnger 1/2farrad Cap.

Headunits:

Kenwood M505 (MD Player, TV Tuner)

Kenwood C505 (CD Player, Equalizer)

Amp:

Avalanche (Bullshit cheap 800Watt 4 Channel amp i got for $100 :cheers:)

Speakers:

JBL 6.5 inch fronts and JBL tweeters

3 way Kenwoods in the back

Sub:

Pioneer 12 inch VCCS in custom box

Hey guys,

Got a question....

I've got the choice at the mo to buy either:

Focal - Polyglass 165V 6-1/2" Splits for the front

2*6" or 6-1/2" 3-ways in the back

Pioneer - TS-C160R 6" 2 way splits for the front

TS-A1681S 6" 4-Ways in the back

I can get the focal for around $500, and the pioneer for around $400 - but I just dont know which to choose!!!

Ny help?

Hey guys,

Got a question....

I've got the choice at the mo to buy either:

Focal - Polyglass 165V  6-1/2" Splits for the front

          2*6" or 6-1/2" 3-ways in the back

Pioneer - TS-C160R 6" 2 way splits for the front

              TS-A1681S 6" 4-Ways in the back

I can get the focal for around $500, and the pioneer for around $400 - but I just dont know which to choose!!!

Ny help?

DUDE you would be mad to not go the focals, but thats just my choice. At the end of the day it depends on what you like really, have a listen to both and see which one's your prefer. Everyone is different.

I have the TS-C160R components and there a good split, but nothing on the focals in my book.

I agree. Focals win hands down in my book too.

Out of those two I reckon 99 times in 100 we would sell Focal over Pioneer.

You heard it from the man, now do you really have to ask the question :wassup:

I haved changed my amp plans to be a Zapco matching pair from FHRX. So anyone want a XTA720.4 for less than 1/2 rrp pm me before I put it up for sale (not exactly sure I want to part with it yet).

So now the focal utopias will run off a Zapco Reference 350.2 and a Zapco Reference 500.1 to run a yet to be decided sub. Finding it very hard to choose, needs to be 12" 4Ohm DVC or single 2Ohm with excelllent SQ able to take the 500W RMS nicely.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For DBA, check out their guide table here. https://dba.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2023/01/Direct_Replacement-Guide-2021.2.pdf   Additionally they have some other guides and info on how to make sure you choose the right pad.
    • Sorry, just assumed that talk of coloured pads meant EBC red/green/yellow/shit stuff. I don't know the DBA pads, but it's a reasonable bet that they will be OK. DBA make good stuff generally. Those 4000 series rotors I linked to are very good. I may well replace the RDA rotors I have with those when required.
    • The average previous owner for these cars were basically S-chassis owners in the US. Teenagers or teenager-adjacent. I often tell people that neglect is easier to fix than something that was actively "repaired" by previous owners.
    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
×
×
  • Create New...