Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

What im asking is if you can state the following.

1. Brand (shock/spring)

2. Type (ie. coilovers/standard)

3. Height (lowered by x"/standard)

4. Reason (What purpose or setup type)

5. Cost (New/Used and where from)

6. Car (R31/32/33/34/GTR/ what ever)

7. Any thoughts on what you would do different. (ie. explain whats good & bad)

The reason i ask is I was after a set of new shocks today for my S2 R33 as their a bit noisy. However not too many people have them aviable and the ones who do have them for $$$$ big dollars. I have looked at a coilover set of struts from white line for less than a grand. Im thinking that if a set of shocks for 400 bucks is too much then i may as well go to adjustable coil overs and spend the bucks on something worthwile. I mainlly want a street setup with speed bumps and rough roads in mind (Brisbane roads... LOL).

I thank you all in advance on you comments.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/70749-what-suspension-are-u-using/
Share on other sites

crikey....$400 for shocks is pretty good in my books.

my 33 has KYB buzzspec adjustables in the back, and nismo struts and shocks in the front, its lowered about 1.5 inches... with the 400r kit its just above 100mm off the ground. they were in there when i bought it. they are ok though.

im looking at getting some Tein coilovers or HKS coilovers. brand new. for drifting....im not too worried about comfort. the 18s with stretched tyres make it rough anyway

for speed, you could prbs go with a shock/spring combo rather then a coilover, they are too stiff and end up with traction problems.

theres a thread on here saying bilstein and king springs i think are the best all round combo.

cheers

Linton

I should say also i am only planing on doing the front as the rear has king springs and KYB standard shocks now. They are nice and tight and perfect for the rear end. They are a very nice combo back there for now. It squats nicelly and you can bag em up if you want. But its just the front that is too tight atm. The springs are original as far as i can see and the shocks are unknown????

All i know is they squek and that pee's me off...

soray them with rost off or wd40, around the base of the spring, where the rod goes into the shock absorber... that should stop the squeaking, as for your dilemma with them being to stiff...get the same as the back if they are that good.

1. Bilstein shocks, apexi springs

2. n/a

3. Lowered front 35mm, rear 25mm

4. General street driving, mountain twisties

5. Shocks $250 each, springs used for $220

6. R33 GTS

7. This is a great setup. Great handling and feel while being relatively comfortable, in fact much more comfortable than using standard springs with the bilsteins, as the apexi springs are progressive. Apparently kings springs go well with the bilsteins as well.

hopefully this helps you

1. Tien HR's

2. Coilovers

3. Lowerd front and back about 2 1/2 inches alround (estimate)

4. Came with the car (unknown to me)

5. When i got the once over to sell it the guy told me they were 5K second hand.

6. 32 Gtst

- Handles like a dream, a mate was woundering why i could drift around a cornor after 2 weeks of owning the car better than he could in his 1 and half years of owning his 180. But is a really bumpy ride.

Michael

I did have a chat to a guy i know who is a suspension expert. (Well those are my words) But yeah he reckons blitsens and kings are the cheaps bang for buck. So ill price up a set tommorrow see what its worth.

Although i think this thread should remain for more people to add to it. Maby a mods can move it to the FAQ's for future searches for bums like me.

1. Bilstein shocks/Whiteline Springs

2. non adjustable (is that standard?)

3. 35mm front, 25mm rear

4. Standard way to high (looks dumb), wanted better handling but not neck cracking hardness

5. New from Unique Auto Sports (price now incressed)

Shocks - $225 x 4 = $900

Springs - = $295

SAU disc %10 = - $119.50

TOTAL = $1075

6. Series II R33, same as you :spank:

7. No complaints at all, love em

Also, installation was done by a forum member for a case of beer!

I did all my research on these forums....Bilsteins seem to be the way to go for daily draiviers with occasional track work...My setup was recommended by Sydney Kid so i can't argue with that..

Bilsteins were first on my list.

Springs were pretty much either Whiteline...Kings or Apexi.

Just went with Whiteline becasue of SK and easy to order thru UAS.

Great info there BIRNIE

I think its a smart choice im just gonna go for a ride in a S2 tommorrow with fully adjustable HKS coil overs worth about 3.5k then i will make my mind up. I was offered a ride by a guy just minutes ago who watchs the forums with a passion....

Maby ill convince him to join up. Seems like a really nice guy.

Used to have HKS hyper-D, they were too stiff for my liking, and did not offer a good compromise between grip and comfort..

since about 2 weeks ago i have

whiteline springs (25mm low)

bilstein shocks

Searched lots to get stock strut tops!!

cost was 1140 for shocks and springs,

plus 80 for new dust covers, and 60 for strut tops and bump stops, i installed them myself with a friend..

so with all the bits and pieces $1280

and i got a 4 wheel alignment (not always necessary) for $110

1. JIC Magic (Suspension Project)

2. Coil Overs

3. they are adjustable height / lowered at the moment by 2inchs front and rear roughly

4. eventually for drift and track use

5. 2nd hand from a forum member

6. HR31 coupe

7. not buy 2nd hand and fit them straight away if theyve been sitting for ANY length of time ..... my scenario ..shitty local streets (corigations) on the test drive blew the right front shock ....needs to be rebuilt /replace..... my advice ..thoroughly pull them apart and insure the shock is "pumped" up just to check the valving wont be shocked into blowing out its arsehole.

i'm considering getting another set of rear springs ...and have the originals rated for consistancy...having a few issues with platform heights on the rear shocks at the moment.... nothing major

Buy new if u can afford it .....or make sure u know what your buying if u get 2nd hand.

Matt

I got bilsteins/kings setup

not coilovers.

it was lower when i had standard shocks in, but with stiff bilsteins about 5 mils between guard and top of wheel ( if that makes sense)

just wanted handling improvements

kings fitted for 350 i think. bilsteins $600 used japan auctions

33

very happy chappy.

cheers,M

1. HKS HIPER D

2. adjustable coilovers/ damper adjustable

3.i fink atound 1.5 inchs

4. Got it for a real bargain really

5. AS i said, it was a bargain

6.34 gt-t sedan

7.very bumpy....feel every lump on the nsw roads..lol...but handling is incredible..very happy with it

:P

1. JIC magic

2. adjustable hight/damper

3. standard (im still on my P's... the cops would have a field day)

4. got it with the car

5. same as above....

6. GT-R32

7. its a nice and firm ride, a little bumpy, and a pane in the arse then you go up drive ways that are steep and your ballencing on 2 wheals...

but im happy

1. Brand (olims)

2. Type (coilovers)

3. Height (adjustable)

4. Reason (street, track, drag)

5. Cost (New ($500 -$1000 each/Used ( wrecked car)

6. Car (33 GTST)

7. Any thoughts on what you would do different. (too bloody hard on the street.) but other wise very good handling and easy ride hight change

1. Brand (shock/spring)

Tein something or other

2. Type (ie. coilovers/standard)

coilover

3. Height (lowered by x"/standard)

100mm from ground (no idea what standard is sorry)

4. Reason (What purpose or setup type)

came with car

5. Cost (New/Used and where from)

no idea

6. Car (R31/32/33/34/GTR/ what ever)

A31

7. Any thoughts on what you would do different. (ie. explain whats good & bad)

With the struts I say they handle excellent and I don't think they are stiff Teins - I'm not sure what type they are but are height adjustable. They ride very well on the street and respond well when driving enthusiastically. Off course they don't take bumps as well as a taxi but I think they could stand to be even harder, they won't "bottom out" on anything but the most vicious potholes (which you shouldn't be hitting anyway).

I really noticed the difference after putting in some pineapples and rear camber kit so I would highly recommend PU pineapples if you're doing your suspension anyway.

What im asking is if you can state the following.

1. Brand (shock/spring)

Zeal/Endless

2. Type (ie. coilovers/standard)

Coilovers -Fully adjustable for height, spring preload, bump/ rebound.

3. Height (lowered by x"/standard)

Very low :P (legal height - just)

4. Reason (What purpose or setup type)

Came as a bonus with the purchase from Japan - brand new!!! (the car was set up for circuit work)

5. Cost (New/Used and where from)

Unknown - a place in Qld reckons about $4.5k for a set?!?!

6. Car (R31/32/33/34/GTR/ what ever)

R32 GTR

7. Any thoughts on what you would do different. (ie. explain whats good & bad)

I think they are great! not overly hard like some brands - car sticks very well to the road (I live on a rough country road and it is not uncomfortable). easy to adjust for stiffer ride / height. the tops have a 6 stage adjuster, which I set the on the 2 setting. highly rate and recommend them (plus the look great in chrome / silver with nice bright blue springs!)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
×
×
  • Create New...