Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The Lancer has gone and i have spoken to a few kind people on this forum who have brought to my attention that there cars are for sale which is good to hear...

but before I commit I would like to hear other people opinions as to how easy is it to make a auto go fast I am looking at dump pipe 3" exhaust and I/C is this going to be enough to make this thing move it's butt as good (well nearly as good)as a manual and the car is a R33 GTS

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/71120-r33-autos-how-fast-can/
Share on other sites

gtst u mean :D

if its auto gts.... DONT BUY IT :(

only manual gts is bareable... (just) :)

haha, never mind, But i should think it would pull what... low 14's with that done ?

maybe ?

i know a friends (psikers) does about 15 something and it is basically stocker for memory (psiker if u read this fill her in!)

I didn't really feel like I gained any power from a front mount but I put that down to stock R34 cooler being bigger to start with.

It's not impossibly hard though. I've just fitted a upgraded valvebody to the transmission which should improve things heaps. Check the group buy on it for more info and peoples results.

Yeh the dump and cooler might go to waste on a GTS. :)

Autos are just giving away control. some ppl like it, some dont. Pisses me off that there is no connection between engine and road apart from some viscous fluid. U just dont get the same feeling. Plus i dont trust autos and their changing through corners technique.

Go the auto!

My first setup , with stock ecu / turbo ran 13.4@ 106mph.

2nd setup ran 12.6 @ 114mph & 3rd setup....well I'll tell ya after Drag Combat!

As a sidenote , one of the Forum Members just put an AUTO in his 530rwhp GTR (GTS4 4wd auto) that will be interesting tomorrow

Cheers

Troy Rep.

Generally a front mount will improve cooling of charged air so more boost can be used safely. Higher boost is where the gains are made from the lower pressure drop through fmic and cooler intake temp.

At stock boost there is not much differnce at all in rwhp.

i cant see how it would make no dif but..............

Me either - i kept getting fed bull crap i think.

I get - its not making more HP because you dont have an SAFC/fuel pump/ internal upgrade i put all of those in ....

Last year I got - its not making more HP because it doesnt have a FMIC

i put one of those in .....

Now I get - its not making more HP cos its an auto

:)

My boost controller died - its now got a bleed valve until we get it fixed. Car starts breaking down on higher boost.

Think its time to get rid of the baby hairdryer ..... thats all i can do - most of the cars internals have been upgraded to take HP. I only want 300 out of her is that so friggin hard BLEH! I was expectiong high 260 - 270 yesterday but noooo she almost got 250.

wat is that all..... so wat do u have done to it all up? ohh and an auto aint gonna restrict ure power who ever said that is Full of SH1T...... these autoboxs can take lotsa power then u just bulk them up.....

i use a blled valve and 12 psi..... wats in urz?

next 4 me is internals and turbo....

The auto's in the lines dont sap any real power at all!

They can run more consistant times due to the stall being fixed , they dont shock diffs & tailshafts when you launch unlike a manual/cluctch drop as well as having a torque multiplying effect , but best of all...you can stall em up to make BOOST on the start line! no lag ;)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • They care about emissions, and cost the most. Save weight where possible, and make manufacturing easier. Less material also let's the engine transfer heat to water quicker, and bring the engine up to temp quicker, better for emissions and getting them past their warranty period.
    • I was under the impression the reason why OEMs are going with solutions like relatively thin "right-sized" cylinder walls with technologies like PTWA and open deck is because they care a lot about whatever marginal knock margin benefits they get from that vs the structural rigidity benefits of a closed deck block and thicker cylinder walls. I also see some weird stuff like plastic inserts in the water jacket around the cylinders to try and equalize cylinder wall temperatures. re: the PRP blocks and heads at the end of the day it's hard to know what is and isn't going to work there, just have to see what the initial buyers say about it.
    • Which is why I didn't mention that hardness testing, and specifically mentioned the bore and deck thickness testing. Yeah, not really. The bore temperature will be a lot more even around the top half inch or so, where the material distribution is dominated by the deck, and which is the only place where the bore surface temperature heating any gas in the cylinder is likely to have any effect on detonation. Think about it. Another inch or so down the bore, you might have a hotter spot. The gas there might get a bit hotter, then the piston rises squeezes that gas away from there at high speed and mixes it with other gas from nearby. Instant dilution of the problem. I'd be surprised if it was an issue at any time other than in racing engines or OEM dev engines being run at the ragged edge of tuning. Say what now?
    • https://dsportmag.com/the-tech/education/engine-tech-material-hardness-testing/ The PRP testing on block hardness I'm not sure how much it actually can be trusted. The thinner cylinder walls on RBs is a bit of a problem vs 2JZ but it really depends on the design goal. Siamesed cylinder bores like a 2JZ cause uneven cylinder wall temps too, which means a bit of distortion induced by that + the hotspot can affect knock margin. Something that actually gives me a bit of pause with the PRP block, whether super thick cylinder walls are going to keep it from being drop-in compatible on an otherwise OEM rebuild. 
    • Yeah very valid point. I am waiting for one of the other tuners to come back from vacation so he can help me a bit when the cat is installed again. In the meantime I am going to finish up my polishing and ceramic coating that I have started myself.    N45 Dr Beasley product is highly recommended for a paint primer / polisher. Using this EXO Gtechniq also for the ceramic but next time might use the light serum before hand also. Looks great. 
×
×
  • Create New...