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Introduction

Ok, I've just spent an hour drawing this up. So hope its useful for you guys!

This is basically the exact plan of the spacers you will need to make up to fit either 6.5", 6", smaller, and probably larger ones, in the front doors of an R32.

If you are *not* using 6.5" speakers (and not all 6.5" are exactly the same size), ignore the speaker cutout on the schematics, and circle in your own

Material

I used 16mm MDF, which allowed me to mount my 6.5" splits with a depth of 66.2mm with clearance of about 10mm - 15mm left to the window when down.

16mm *just* allowed me to clip the doorskins back over, and pop the corner toggle in but it was very very close. To be more comfortable I'd probably go for 14mm or even 12mm MDF. But then if you go too narrow, you may have fouling issues with your window, depending on the depth of your speakers used. So you may have to find the best compromise

The schematics

I have included two formats, one is standard GIF.. the other is industry standard EPS , for import into any vector program.

The GIF is done in 300dpi, so please set your printer, or program to this when printing to get the dimensions all correct.

To use these, basically you *should* (although haven't tested myself yet) fit this onto 1x A4 sheet in landscape, as long as your printer can print right to the edge of the page . The dimensions of each edge are marked, so once printed, get out the ruler and check. If your "160mm" matches the 160mm in the diagram, then you are on the right track!

* The overall max dimensions are 258mm length x 204mm height (that is from largest point to point). I didn't have room to include this on the GIF version unfortunately *

Application

This involved a lot of trial and error, and me stuffing around, so this should save you a lot of time. Simply print, cutout to size, and then trace onto your MDF.

Get out the jigsaw, and get to work. Drill out the main screw/attach points as marked. You will need 12g screws for the mount points.. I used 12g x 30mm self tapper screws which fit fine.

If you are using 6.5" splits, jigsaw out the center hole (I used a line of drill points to allow the jigsaw to get in there). If using another size, use the template that comes with your speakers, or make your own on paper with a compass to the correct diameter.

The files!

Here is the GIF version (300dpi): http://www.project32.net/misc/r32_spacer.gif

Here is the EPS (Illustrator 8 compatible) version: http://www.project32.net/misc/r32_spacer.zip

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/71256-r32-spacer-schematics-here/
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I had a go at doing this a while ago but found that even though I got the door trim back on over the speaker, the speaker surround hit inside the top of the factory grilles when I cranked it. This was because my speakers had a long excursion. A lot of other speakers wouldn't have that problem though.

One other thing that almost caught me out was the power window mechanism.

A quadrant gear enters the space where the speaker magnet goes as the window is would up.

I didn't see it when the window was right down and had already cut a baffle out when I checked to see if the magnet cleared as I wound the window up.

I had to cut a new baffle with the speaker mounted lower and further forward so it would clear it.

Mate thanks for the post, should make a lot of peeps life easier with the diagram. One question for you though, on the diagram for the spacer you have the speaker hole as a total of 140mm is that correct or a mistake?

One question for you though, on the diagram for the spacer you have the speaker hole as a total of 140mm is that correct or a mistake?

That is 140mm across in diameter = 5.5" - that is the inner diameter for the speaker to fit through.. but the outer edge is actually 6.5" (165mm).. Like I was saying, one manufacturers '6.5 inch' can be different to another's '6.5 inch', so it may vary.

You are probably best off to measure the diameter of your speakers (or go off the charts in the manual or box) before you cut out the center piece.

That is 140mm across in diameter = 5.5" - that is the inner diameter for the speaker to fit through.. but the outer edge is actually 6.5" (165mm).. Like I was saying, one manufacturers '6.5 inch' can be different to another's '6.5 inch', so it may vary.  

You are probably best off to measure the diameter of your speakers (or go off the charts in the manual or box) before you cut out the center piece.

Yeah thats cool, i realise that its internal measurements and that all speakers are different, was just checking what sort of speakers you used and if the were a perfect fit?

The speakers I used were Focal 165V Splits.. 6.5" and yup.. perfect fit, and great sound in the R32

Cool, i have noticed that you said you sued 16mm but would reccomend 12-14mm, what if you dont get enough clearance for the window chanell with 12-14mm. How tight was the 16mm under your skins?

16mm was just just fit.. I had to bend the doorskin over in, and only because the corner toggle was really strong did it lock in.. The main screws along the bottom and along the corner of the door really are what holds it in.

It could possibly damage the door trims long term due to them being slightly stretched over.. but I am not that fussed. I wouldn't use 16mm probably again, but it worked for me. You don't want too thin or the mdf may wobble under vibrations, which is bad for the audio quality.

Interesting Pred. My bro used nearly identically shaped pods, but we could only fit the door trim back on with 6mm MDF. Any larger and it was rubbing against them..

Grandmasterb created a thread in CAA, which may be of some assistance?

http://www.caraudioaustralia.com/forums/sh...ad.php?p=500824

Interesting Pred. My bro used nearly identically shaped pods, but we could only fit the door trim back on with 6mm MDF. Any larger and it was rubbing against them..

Grandmasterb created a thread in CAA, which may be of some assistance?

http://www.caraudioaustralia.com/forums/sh...ad.php?p=500824

Ok are the cars that you and Pred are talking about 2 door or 4 door 32's and did they have power windows or normal windows cause i have been looking at it more and more and i believe the doors could be different depths between the 2 and 4 door models as well as clearance's with the power window's mech and the normal manaul window channel?

We have a 2 door R32 with power windows. Fitted some 6.5" components with a mounting depth of 54.3mm.

4 door HR32 with 6'5" components with power windows with a mounting depth of 55mm and in the end it was 24mm spacer to get the clearance of the window channel from the magnet of the speaker. Not sure whats going on but i'll wait and see when i do mine and what size spacer i can use???

yeah, mine is 2 door.. not sure what is going on there grandmasterb.. maybe 4 doors are different.

As up top, I used 16mm spacer, 66.5mm speaker depth, and "just" clearance to get the door skin back on. But still is another 1cm or back towards the window (when down)

yeah, mine is 2 door.. not sure what is going on there grandmasterb.. maybe 4 doors are different.  

As up top, I used 16mm spacer, 66.5mm speaker depth, and "just" clearance to get the door skin back on. But still is another 1cm or back towards the window (when down)

Yeah im guessin that the doors are different between the 2 i guess??? We will find out when i get around to doing mine, 2 door with power windows so hopefully i can get away with 12MM for my spacers?

Yeah im guessin that the doors are different between the 2 i guess???  We will find out when i get around to doing mine, 2 door with power windows so hopefully i can get away with 12MM for my spacers?

I used 12mm spacers with speaker depth of 70mm. You still need to bevel the top edges of the spacer to make sure the door doesn't bend when you put it back on.

If you're using a 12mm spacer, I found replacing the 4 original bolts with 4 1/4" x 20mm roofing bolts make the job so much easier. The original bolts are *just* a touch too short.

Mark

And great work Gordon!

PS My thumb is double jointed.

I used 12mm spacers with speaker depth of 70mm. You still need to bevel the top edges of the spacer to make sure the door doesn't bend when you put it back on.

If you're using a 12mm spacer, I found replacing the 4 original bolts with 4 1/4" x 20mm roofing bolts make the job so much easier. The original bolts are *just* a touch too short.

Mark

And great work Gordon!

PS My thumb is double jointed.

Yeah im not sure whats going on here, but i guess that the 2 doors being a touch longer than the 4's maybe there is a mounting difference as well? TimmyB's car is what we did the other night and like i said it was 24MM spacer to get there clearance needed (and i mean only just) for the window channel and mech and the skin is only just back on, anymore and it would be popping off the door!!!! We took some pics and get em up asap so everyone can have a look and in the mean time while i wait to get my car i'll keep you posted on how it all goes on my part :rofl:

Dude,

What kind of speakers do you have in the front and back of the GTR ? Also what deck :D

Cheers !

I used 12mm spacers with speaker depth of 70mm. You still need to bevel the top edges of the spacer to make sure the door doesn't bend when you put it back on.

If you're using a 12mm spacer, I found replacing the 4 original bolts with 4 1/4" x 20mm roofing bolts make the job so much easier. The original bolts are *just* a touch too short.

Mark

And great work Gordon!

PS My thumb is double jointed.

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