Jump to content
SAU Community

Have I exceeded my Platinum Plugs servicibility?

superspit

By superspit,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

superspit Mentor

superspit

Posted
Posted

Hi Skliner's, how's it all....er, anyways....

1 year ago I had my sparkplugs changed (OEM Platinum $25.00 each).

I remember some massive debates on coppers versus plat, iridium etc...and their comparitive longevity/cheapness/replacement intervals, between the differing types.

I remember sticking with 'long life plugs' (decided platinum over copper), as I am not happy with the idea of having to remove the top section of a turbo 'line every time I wanna do the plugs. (apparantly often with coppers).

I have now done (about) over 20K with these plugs, car still seems ok, but it's hard to tell with these sorts of things over time, and you naturally getting use to something like a slight loss of power.

I do not want to start a debate, but i would like to know, in your opinions, if I've actually exceeded the life of my platinums (I run slightly higher than stock boost ie. 10-11 pissants). ...and if there is a chance that I'm not getting 'sparkling' performance could it be attributed to dying plugs (?). My Car idles beautifully, always has, but but just doesn't "get to the top" in each gear like I thought it did a year ago.

If my car was N/A, would these expensive plugs last longer? Have I exceeded the plug's servicibility?

If I get an answer tonight....guess what I might be doing tomorrow!!? :D

In anticipation.......

Mark Superspit. :wassup:

Sumo Mentor

Sumo

Posted
Posted

The coppers I ran acctually burnt the electrode off 4 of the 6 plugs. Nice hard run - 11 psi everything else stock

So now i use Iridiums, and pulled them out at 10 000kms last week and they look like new.

Cheers

Sumo

Eug Grand Master

Eug

Posted
Posted

i think a rough ball park figure is 100 000km for platinum plugs, but i guess depending

on how much work done has been done to your engine and how hard you drive the car,

i am pretty sure you'd expect to see less than that.

a mate of mine used to do a full service on his gtr every 5000km, and yes he changed all

6 sparkies and all platinum.

blind_elk Grand Master

blind_elk

Posted
Posted

Yes, platinums are supposed to be good for 100k kms. My experience has converted me to the Iridiums. I believe they are cheaper than the platinums (mine cost me $18 each). I run standard (1.1mm) gap, and 10 psi boost, producing 180Awkw from a RB25DET. Now the car starts easier, and doesn't miss at all.

superspit Mentor

superspit

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Yes, platinums are supposed to be good for 100k kms. My experience has converted me to the Iridiums. I believe they are cheaper than the platinums (mine cost me $18 each). I run standard (1.1mm) gap, and 10 psi boost, producing 180Awkw from a RB25DET. Now the car starts easier, and doesn't miss at all.

Woah!! At 1.1 mm gap my car wouldn't start!!!

I use .75-.8.. and all seems well.

I'd like to run a bigger spark though...wish I could! (mmm.....splitfires??)

I guess I know that N/A cars could expect 100k, but a daily driver turbo nana driver?

Thanx guys.

clean_vl Contributor

clean_vl

Posted
Posted

Just found out somthing you guys might be interested to know.

i was doing some work at NGK melbourne, the other week and i was shocked to see that the life of the iridiums and platinum rated at 100,000km (as we all know) but the iridiums IX is only rated for 60,000km. just somthing to take note, as most of us push ours cars on a day to day basis.

superspit Mentor

superspit

Posted
  • Author
Posted

cool, and thanq SUMO & VL .....just with extra boost my car was missing at anything above my .8 gap size (kind people suggested this as a fix when increasing boost, and it worked..thanx SAU!!). Car could start but wouldn't transition into boost without popping.

OK guys....<>60000km or <>100000kms...this is for a N/A car? With turbo cars, what could I reliably expect from even these 'high quality' plugs? 10,15K, 25K?

Surely, no plug could do 100K in a turbo car that is driven anything above granny mode and burning expensomax petrol?

Has anyone ever heard of a good quality plug in a turbo car exceeding 50k, for example??

Please, come back?...and I thank you.

blind_elk Grand Master

blind_elk

Posted
Posted
cool, and thanq SUMO & VL .....just with extra boost my car was missing at anything above my .8 gap size (kind people suggested this as a fix when increasing boost, and it worked..thanx SAU!!). Car could start but wouldn't transition into boost without popping.

OK guys....<>60000km or <>100000kms...this is for a N/A car? With turbo cars, what could I reliably expect from even these 'high quality' plugs? 10,15K, 25K?  

Surely, no plug could do 100K in a turbo car that is driven anything above granny mode and burning expensomax petrol?

Has anyone ever heard of a good quality plug in a turbo car exceeding 50k, for example??

Please, come back?...and I thank you.

NGK specify a particular plug for the turbo versions ie RB20DET, RB25DET, (which may be different to the plugs recommended for N/A versions). So if you get the recommended plug, then they should last the 60k - 100k kms.

Your local spare parts supplier should have a copy of the NGK catalogue - have a browse through that.

superspit Mentor

superspit

Posted
  • Author
Posted
NGK specify a particular plug for the turbo versions ie RB20DET, RB25DET, (which may be different to the plugs recommended for N/A versions). So if you get the recommended plug, then they should last the 60k - 100k kms.  

Your local spare parts supplier should have a copy of the NGK catalogue - have a browse through that.

this makes sense...thankyou. I'll inspect this catalogue!!

But I'll stick to the original OEM model plugs then, and go for another 30k ....at least!!!!

Regards everybody...you guys are sic as.

WLD747 Experienced

WLD747

Posted
Posted

My experience with platinums are they are overpriced but idle smooth. Also they should not be gapped otherwise you destroy a special coating. Also i have found they cause mis-fire problems on my car at standard gapping.

As soon as i changed to coppers the boost felt stronger and no misfire. I also change em every 5000k no problems.

But thats my opinion.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Yeah well per the video it took 15s for the stock unit to start up....even if I give it a few seconds discount for starting that is at least 12 sec before you get a reverse camera if you are trying to leave a park.  The android unit is way faster, but 2016 for the stock unit is a long time ago in consumer electronics
    • CF.Panda
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By CF.Panda · Posted

      Yea that’s why I said ima test them with multimeter and see the reads.
    • CF.Panda
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By CF.Panda · Posted

      Only at idle. Isn’t a problem when rev it seems.
    • Murray_Calavera
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      @Haggerty This seems silly to ask, but are you confident in your ability to tune the Haltech?  
    • hoodedreeper
      Chris' Toyota Mark ii JZX110

      By hoodedreeper · Posted

      Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
×
×
  • Create New...