Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi everyone

I'm importing a '94 r33 skyline, which is pretty standard mechanically except exhaust so im interested in what i can do and what would it cost to make it faster?

I'm thinking first thing to put intercooler in and i was quoted $1000 for 600*300 for hybrid, then i was told to put wolf3d computer for 1400 bucks made specially for skyline so tunning would cost like 100 bucks, and buy aftermarket turbo as highflows dont achieve as big power gains, minding i still want as least lag as possible so which one would u recommend?

I was told i dont need to upgrade injectors and pump as its wquite big from factory but i found it hard to believe?

Can u tell me what do you think and give me some quotes of how much would everything cost, how good is this wolf 3d and what turbo is best to get and thingds like, how much for upgraded pump/injectors, clutch etc.

thanks and regards

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/71506-r33-upgrades-quotes/
Share on other sites

well...its all depending on your budget and how much you would like to achive really. but if you want to get things done a bit cheaper..shop around..$1G's for an intercooler is a bit too much i reckon..u can now get them for $6-700 bucks..wolf 3D's are good..again,. depending which version..ii got the version 4 which has the boost setting..cost about 2-300 bucks to tune them on your prefered settings..or u can get the Apexi FC for a little less than the Wolf 3D.

high flowed turbo do achive power gains...but i'd say better off getting one of those HKS or garretts ones.

no need for injectors or fuel pump just yet though..they're good to handle around 200rwkw but to be safe..u might aswell upgrade them if you're aiming for bigger KWs. maybe an 044 pump and 550cc injectors will set u back say..atleast $1500--2nd hand.

and there comes the clutch...u will need to upgrade that one aswell..and you're looking at maybe $700? just shop around and u can probably get them much cheaper.

hey man, for prices on these things try www.nengun.com if you don't mind waiting a little while (a few weeks anyway) for the parts to arrive. It'll be the cheaper way of doing things. I've heard the HKS GT-RS turbo is a good replacement, with not too much lag and good power.

Also check out the Power FC from nengun as they are pretty cheap and arguably better than the wolf (depending on who ya talk to) also theres a fair few people that can tune em now.

Talk to Xclutch about the new clutch, theres a fair few people using them and they're much cheaper than the japanese alternatives.

Dunno about prices to install things some of these things.

Good luck

I have just had major upgrades done to my car from stock and used both an aftermarket turbo and the wolf3d v4.

With the following...

IPS460hp low mount turbo (internal gate)

Garret 300x600 fmic kit

Walbro 500hp pump

Malpassi Fuel Reg

3inch from turb with hi flow cat

apexi pod filter

5 hours of dyno tuning

Just over 240rwkw on 16psi using standard injectors. The tuner said there was definately more power there but the injectors were not going to go any higher.

As for the wolf? The car is amazing! It roars all the way to redline and beyond (accidentally hit the limiter (8k) in 1st because the revs flew up so bloody fast). It's a whole new machine. No complaints from me for any of the parts installed.

My only whinge? Standard clutch lasted 2 hours. If your clutch is a little week, get it upgraded!

yea appreciate the link angry sent an email off earlier today only downer is i havent got a reply yet ;) just asked the general questions piping size is it a hybrid copy or their own one anyways thanks again its a good price if they will ever get back to me.

I was told i dont need to upgrade injectors and pump as its quite big from factory but i found it hard to believe?

Learn how to drive the car first before you worry about modifying it, and stay away from any workshop that has an association with sst as they still think stock r33 injectors can be used for unlimited power.

Have been using the Wolf for the past 2-3 years, absolutely no problem, and has the added feature of pin security.

The Wolf is just as good/realiable as the power fc, it all depends on the knowledge of the tuner. If your mechanic is comfortable with the wolf, use that. If he knows the PFC use that instead.

I chose my ecu because of my mechanic, i didn't change my trusted mechanic because of my ecu.

im in the same boat as you, just started modify my R33 gtst.

the one thing you didnt mention is how much power your after?.....when i ist got my car i had huge plans for making stupid amounts of power but since ive had it and even in stock form it has impressed me %100.

so far ive only added twin dump pipe and full 3" exhaust/pod filter.... and the thing screams!!

maybee look at minor mods and think about spending the bucks on suspension ect?

as for the ecu, i agree with alan in the sense that its important to get the right computer for the right tuner, what do any of you guys think about some of the other brands on the market like ems/ motec ect? is there a reason there not popular?

also can anyone tell us how there high flowed turbo goes? as im interested in getting it done as i wouldhave thaught the smaller turbo would have some advanteges

Regards Dave

if u r going bigger turbo u will deffo need a bigger fuel pump and an adjustable reg.

i am still running the stock turbo and have had no problem maxxing out the injectors, this usually occurs only in 1st and 2nd when i'm giving it the boot but if u r going to get a bigger turbo u'd be stupid to risk it all by not upgrading the fuel system

seems like a silly risk, if u can't afford it all right now (like me) then go the fuel system first better to be safe then sorry, and a second engine ain't cheap

Only going on what I have learned on these forums and personal experience. Hope this helps

I would drive it standard for a while for a start they are pretty quick in standard form. Do plenty of research and shop around before you do anything.

Depending on how much money you have I would do these mods for a start.

1. Make sure you have an aftermarket exhaust from the turbo back ~$500 for cat and front/dump pipe

2. larger intercooler kit and cai ~$1000

3. wolf 3d, power FC ect. what ever your tuner prefers. but if its the power FC get the boost controller kit with it. ~$1500 fitted and tuned

These mods alone will make a huge improvement around 175 to 200kw @ the wheels (depending on the dyno ect.) From here it gets expensive because a lot of your stock parts will be nearing the limits. If I were you id upgrade the suspention, wheels, and tyres no good having all that power if you cant put it to the ground.

Next you will need

Turbo - aftermarket HKS GTRS ect ~$2500 or highflow standard one ~$1800

Injectors ~$600

Fuel pump ~$400

clutch ~$500 maybe not sure

cams ~$1000 optional but will make a big difference at this stage.

You will also need to add labour to fit parts and tune ECU ect.

You will probably make from 230 to 270rwkw with these mods.

have fun

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You’ll be very upset when you bust that too not to mention the gearing totally sucks. Don’t do it.
    • Is the panel filter one that is oiled? Have you ever cleaned or touched the AFM?
    • So.... the K&N air box thingo was too big, ended up gifting it to a mate, well, by gifting it he actually supplied food and beer at the pub,  which was nice, as it will not sit on a shelf in the garage for the next 10 years I did trim up some of the existing stuff to neaten it all up and gave it some wrinkle paint, unfortunately it currently has a used and abused mish mash of different types of hose clamps, 4 big fat T bolt type (shit), and a few normal clamps of vairing sizes and brands, but..... only until the 6 constant tension black worm clamps that I ordered from EFI solutions turn up next week Currently the current hose clamps are triggering me hard, LOL Is this the final version, probably not, I really want just 2 silicone pieces, a straight bit of silicone from the filter to the MAF is easy and will happen as soon as I head into Just Jap tomorrow, the problematic part is a 30° silicone bend from the MAF to the TB that I can connect the engine breather from the head, I found that there are bulk head fittings for boat bilge pumps that should work, but until I can get a 30° silicone bend the alloy pipe, and the 11ty thousand hose clamps, are there for the foreseeable future 4 hose clamps are golden, 6 are grudgingly acceptable, the 8 currently holding it all together is just taking the piss    I've also ordered 60 more retaining wall blocks for the front yard, I mis-gonculated the height that was required to get above the base of the Photinia's (red robin's) that are the hedge behind the front fence, currently it is 2 blocks high, and about 1/2 a block short, so going 3 blocks high will be above the base of the red robin's, and allow some room for mulch
    • It is the stock air box with the panel filter. Everything else is stock except the exhaust at this point, as I also went back to the cleaned 270cc injectors. I will check the RPM when the IACV is unplugged and report back.
    • As MBS suggested if this is happening when the engine is cold you're going to want to remove the intake air regulator and verify resistance + that the shutter is physically opening and closing. At -20C should be fully open, 20C half open, over 60C fully closed. At 20C should be 70-80 ohms. For AAC valve testing using a Consult cable see if you can raise and lower the idle by commanding more or less AAC duty cycle. Hopefully it's pretty linear as well, shouldn't be like 30% AAC valve is barely idling and 40% is 1500 rpm.
×
×
  • Create New...