Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well just got a quote for my rebuild (RB25DET), was wondering if you could all look through it and give me ideas on what is priced good what not. and altertnatives?

ACL Mahl Forged Pistons with rings(20thou). $1400

Tomie metal Headgasket................................$550

Nissan Gaskets..............................................$200

Bearing Set (Tri-Metal)....................................$300

Welsh Plugs....................................................$80

Machining, close & hone, shot peen ..............$2000

Rod Bolts........................................................$280

Head Bolts......................................................$200

Labour charge

28 hours........... $2150

Totalling... $7290

Also i am only planning on getting 250rwkw out of the motor... so the stock rods should be up to the task?

Is this about right? anything i should change? any ideas where i can get parts for cheaper from... ?

Thanx in advance

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/71572-rebuild-overview/
Share on other sites

you probably don't need to spend that much on a headgasket... imo

and you could probably save a couple of hundred on the pistons by going Arias or Venolia

stock rods will be fine for 250rwkw

other than that it sounds about right, good luck with it

btw what happened to the old engine?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/71572-rebuild-overview/#findComment-1319792
Share on other sites

Don't skimp on the bearings.

 

Either go Nissan or a set of King HP Bi-metal bearings or Clevites.

 

What brand are they?

KING HP rigns a belll, not 100% sure, but will double check...

Also i was thinking, no need to go for metal head gasket as i wont be pushing that much power, to really need one?

Rebuilder told me vernolia pistons are abit thin or sumtin, and doesnt like them?

But alot of people seem to be running Arias with no problems, can anyone give me a price on arias 20thou over?

Turbo seals went, oil went to the intake in the engine detonated...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/71572-rebuild-overview/#findComment-1319959
Share on other sites

$2000 for machining ? a bit on the rich side i thought , then again depends on what they are going to do .

Does that include cil head work and crank regrinding , for that price it should and its still high .

I had arias pistons in my rb26 40 thou oversize no probs , trade price around 1000 - 1100 including rings .

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/71572-rebuild-overview/#findComment-1320014
Share on other sites

$2000 for machining ? a bit on the rich side i thought , then again depends on what they are going to do .

Does that include cil head work and crank regrinding , for that price it should and its still high .

I had arias pistons in my rb26 40 thou oversize no probs , trade price around 1000 - 1100 including rings .

Machining including head work needing to be done... valves need to be reset...

The quote was from MRC

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/71572-rebuild-overview/#findComment-1320031
Share on other sites

$7000, if that includes motor in and out of the car.

Then thats a fair price, i paid a similar figure for mine which is very reasonable.

including

Arias pistons,

GTR Rods - which i reccomend you factor in as they are cheap as, and you'll have a tough bottom end then indeed. With room to go for more power later

and all the other stuff :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/71572-rebuild-overview/#findComment-1320220
Share on other sites

$7000, if that includes motor in and out of the car.

Then thats a fair price, i paid a similar figure for mine which is very reasonable.

including  

Arias pistons,  

GTR Rods - which i reccomend you factor in as they are cheap as, and you'll have a tough bottom end then indeed. With room to go for more power later

and all the other stuff :(

My rebuilder said i require a GTR crank for GTR rods???

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/71572-rebuild-overview/#findComment-1320613
Share on other sites

If thats what he said, its time to go and find another engine rebuilder that actually knows RB motors.

Its to much money to risk IMO

You do not need to use a GTR crank to run GTR Rods.

My RB25 uses GTR Rods with stock 25 crank.

You run the GTR crank it makes it like 2.6 or 2.7 ltr, cant remember which.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/71572-rebuild-overview/#findComment-1321147
Share on other sites

Rb 25 is the same bore as rb26 , the diff is the stroke 71.7 mm for rb 25 ( 2498 cc) and 73.7 for rb 26 (2568 cc ) 20thou over (.5 mm ) will give you extra 30cc aprox .

You have to make sure they know what pistons to use as well to retain your compression ratio of 9 to 1 . Unless you want to change that but make sure you know what you are getting dont relay on them .

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/71572-rebuild-overview/#findComment-1321434
Share on other sites

Rb 25 is the same bore as rb26 , the diff is the stroke 71.7 mm for rb 25 ( 2498 cc) and 73.7 for rb 26 (2568 cc ) 20thou over (.5 mm ) will give you extra 30cc aprox .

You have to make sure they know what pistons to use as well to retain your compression ratio of 9 to 1 . Unless you want to change that but make sure you know what you are getting dont relay on them .

The pistons will retain the compression ratio... and he said i can put gtr rods in, so he is goign to be pricing that up for me now...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/71572-rebuild-overview/#findComment-1321736
Share on other sites

rocketindustries.com.au was where I got my pistons... (great price and service)

cams from nengun.com (great price but delivery was very delayed)

everything else, water pump, bearings, timing belt, gaskets etc was all from Nissan but I can't remeber which one... I think it was Blackburn

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/71572-rebuild-overview/#findComment-1323707
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
    • Actually, I'd say all three are the automatic option. Just the different trim levels. The manual would be RSFS, no? 
×
×
  • Create New...