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A little background info.

2001 R34 GTX-T, Bilstein Shocks, Whiteline Springs, Rear Whiteline Camber Kit, Yokohama A539's.

I was changing oil tonight and found the front tyres (the right in particular) are wearing more on the inside edge. The right one appears to be almost worn flat on the inside edge??

I was advised by friends with similar suspension mods and by Fulcrum that a front camber kit wasn't necessary?? If this is the case, why are my fronts wearing down so quickly?

Note, have not been to any track days.

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https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/71857-inner-edge-wearing/
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I had a 2x rear whiteline camber kits fitted by Fulcrum 2 days after I fitted the Bilstein/Whiteline Suspension with a mate.

They also carried out a full 4 wheel alignment and 4 wheel balance.

This was about 2 1/2 months ago.

Abo Bob> I can't find the settings, but Fulcrum have agreed to take a look and fix whatever the problem might be. They said that they may have wrongly adjusted something. Good service if you ask me.

GTR_Legend> I can't remember all of the differences. The ones I can remember are that it has a upgraded stereo system, and also it is a newer model revision, mine being a little rarer as it is a 2001 GTX-T. I believe it also has the Garrett BB turbo, but I am yet to confirm this. Here is a link with all the different skyline models. It is in Russian, but you can use Babel to get a rough translation.

http://www.j-car.ru/catalog/nissan-skyline-139.shtml

:D

did u get the tyre wear sorted out?

i lowered mine ,, and noticed that my front tyres are also worn on the inside,,

was told once by someone that i won't need rear camber kit,, but might need front camber kit,,

so thats different to your setup,,, now i'm confused,

so can anyone confirm what camber kits are needed for r34's when you lower it?

Front ro rear kits????

Front camber kits are generally not required unless you have bent something. You will notice that on the whiteline web page they only ever list the front camber kits for skylines as optional or for club/track use. The front suspension geometry doesn't get as badly effected by lowering as the rear. Suspension for the 33s and 34s is basically the same with only a minor shock mounting change to the rear.

I have always set my GTST and GTR like this:-

Front

camber -1.5deg to -2.0deg

toe in/out 0

caster as much as I can get....

currently 5.5deg on the GTR and about 8.0 on GTST

Rear

camber -1.0 deg

toe in/out slightly in, maybe 1mm to 1.5mm each side

These setting seem to work well, I have never had a problem with uneven tyre wear on the road or track.....

Hope that helps.

P.S. The rear does have some factory camber adjustment, you may find this is enough but it wasn't for me in either the GTR of GTST. The front does not have any camber adjustment but after lowering the GTST sedan its camber was right on -1.5deg each side which was perfect for me and the GTR I fitted a front camber kit as I go overkill on everything with it :wassup:

Fulcrum apparently said that everything was as they left it, so I'm not sure. As JL mentioned it could have been due to bending something, but that hasn't happened as far as I know.

My settings are pretty much what JL mentioned as he is the one who fitted all my suspension bits except for the rear camber kit, Fulcrum did that.

My thoughts are for the couple a hundred I can get the front camber kit and be done with it.

Piece of mind ...... maybe overkill but who cares.

did u get the tyre wear sorted out?

i lowered mine ,, and noticed that my front tyres are also worn on the inside,,

was told once by someone that i won't need rear camber kit,, but might need front camber kit,,    

so thats different to your setup,,,  now i'm confused,

so can anyone confirm what camber kits are needed for r34's when you lower it?

Front ro rear kits????

My 20 cents worth......................

In order for the 1.5 degrees negative camber not to excessively wear tyres on the inside, you have to make use of it. If you do a lot of freeway driving or live in traffic then it is not using the negative camber. Similarly if you don't drive it hard through corners at every opportunity.

Personally I would never have 1.5 degrees negative camber on my driving to work car, it has 0.5 degree and I add 2 degrees for track work while it is jacked up to change the tyres.

:)

Sorry Sydneykid. I may have misinformed with my last post. My rear camber was set by Fulcrum to -1.0deg. The front is stock setting...untouched.

As for driving of the car, I don't think of myself as a "Schumaker" for street driving, but I'm no "Driving Miss Daisy" either. :headspin:

My 20 cents worth......................

In order for the 1.5 degrees negative camber not to excessively wear tyres on the inside, you have to make use of it.  If you do a lot of freeway driving or live in traffic then it is not using the negative camber.   Similarly if you don't drive it hard through corners at every opportunity.

Personally I would never have 1.5 degrees negative camber on my driving to work car, it has 0.5 degree and I add 2 degrees for track work while it is jacked up to change the tyres.

:)

Sorry Sydneykid. I may have misinformed with my last post. My rear camber was set by Fulcrum to -1.0deg. The front is stock setting...untouched.

As for driving of the car, I don't think of myself as a "Schumaker" for street driving, but I'm no "Driving Miss Daisy" either. :headspin:

I don't drive Miss Daisy either, but traffic and freeways beat me every time. The reality is, tyres wear on the inside (only) from excessive negative camber or excessive toe out. That's it, there isn't any other reason. :)

OK. So would upgrading to Whiteline Springs, Bilstein shocks, and Whiteline Rear camber kit cause Excessive negative camber or excessive toe out?

I don't drive Miss Daisy either, but traffic and freeways beat me every time.  The reality is, tyres wear on the inside (only) from excessive negative camber or excessive toe out.  That's it, there isn't any other reason. :)
OK. So would upgrading to Whiteline Springs, Bilstein shocks, and Whiteline Rear camber kit cause Excessive negative camber or excessive toe out?

Maybe a little too much negative camber, shouldn't affect the toe at all. We are guessing, I would get the alignment checked, stick up the numbers and some of us "experts" will be ablet to help.

:)

The car will be out of action for a couple of weeks, but as soon as I get the figures I will post them.

Thanks for the feedback. :thankyou:

Maybe a little too much negative camber, shouldn't affect the toe at all.  We are guessing, I would get the alignment checked, stick up the numbers and some of us "experts" will be ablet to help.

:)

Run your hand across the worn part of the tyre, if feels a bit furry when you run it across at a certain angle it is due to "feathering" which on the inside of the tyre would be due to excessive toe out. Lowering the suspension of the car will give the car more negative camber. Think about it. As the suspension lowers and the tyre moves farther up the guard, the lower control arm pushes in at the base of the wheel and produces more negative camber. The solution: raise your suspension again or buy a camber kit (in order for it to be adjustable)

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