Quick R32 GT-R Turbo Removal Question

[lwells]

I am just in the process of removing the stock turbos from my R32 GT-R to replace all the gaskets and studs due to an exhaust leak.

Anyway, I have removed all the air ducting, the coolant and oil lines and heat shield for the front turbo. I have unbolted it from the exh. manifold. According to the workshop manual, it says you should drop the turbo down (and I assume off the exhaust manifold), then undo the exh. manifold, then remove both the manifold and turbo.

Problem is I can't quite get the turbo to completely free itself from the exhaust manifold: the studs are catching and need a good 1cm more to clear. It feels like the front of the turbo is fouling on part of the aircon system.

Any hints/tips? Is there something I have missed? Is it just a question of getting the exh. manifold off and then being able to seperate the two?

Cheers,

Lucien.

[pnblight]

i think you will find it easier to loosen the manifold so you can rock the manifold up to clear the studs of the front turbo and it maybe easier to take the manifold off with the turbo. And isnt it a fun job lol think happy thoughts and hope the rest of the work goes smoothly for you.

pete

[lwells]

Pete,

Yeah, that's what I was thinking. The only problem is getting something on the bottom three nuts for the manifold: with the turbo in the way there is no way to get a socket in there, so I think it will have to be a ring spanner between the inidividal manifold pipes.

Lucien.

[pnblight]

Yeah thats about the only way and my mate richy even ended up buying some cheapish spanners that he then modified to suit. I managed to get away with normal spanners and tools but it's not an easy job and after you figure out the order everything come in and out in it comes easier.

pete

[awurth]

hope it doesn't sound dumb but did you undo the oil drain? I pulled them off my 33 and it wasn't a reall hassle to drop the turbos away from the manifold.

[lwells]

hope it doesn't sound dumb but did you undo the oil drain?  I pulled them off my 33 and it wasn't a reall hassle to drop the turbos away from the manifold.

Are you talking about this hose?:

I have disconnected the oil hose (indicated) from the block (its still connected to the turbo but I am pretty sure its not fouling on anything).

LW.

[GTR032]

Have fun doing this I've done it twice now.. The manifold and turbo and dump pipe comes out all as one. As 'awurth' said don't forget the oil drain. To undo the 2 or 3 manifold nuts under the exh manifold you'll need either a uni joint on a smaller size socket/ratchet or a I did use a ratchet spanner. Get yourself as many different shape 12mm (i think thats what they are) spanners as you can Very tedious but after you crack it, it won't take long. As a tip leave the 2 easy manifold nuts to undo till last, makes it easier to get the hard ones off as there is no weight on them. Also don't be surprised if a couple of the manifold studs undo out of the block with the nut. The oil & coolant lines that go into the turbo are damm annoying as you pull the turbo/manifold out, they catch on everything and you'll need 4 hands..umm thats about all I can think of to help you out at the min. Im about to put turbo's back on mine. My rebuilt stockers fckd up in less than a year so im going a set of GTSS or some N1's. My MINES dump pipes got delivered today

if you need any help im in sydney too

Cheers

jono

[lwells]

Thanks everyone for the reassurance: just needed to know that I wasn't missing something. Hopefully have them out be the week's end

LW.

[Jengi]

Try an extension bar with a uni joint working from under the front of the car, thats normally the easiest with the stubborn nuts. Use lots of crc before attempting it too.

[lwells]

Try an extension bar with a uni joint working from under the front of the car, thats normally the easiest with the stubborn nuts. Use lots of crc before attempting it too.

There is no way to get to the manfold nuts from underneath (at least that I can see). The turbo is in the way. If I could seperate the turbo from the manifold, it would be far easier to get at the bottom row of manifold nuts, but its seems I am not the only person who hasn't been able to seperate the two despite what it says in the manual.

Lucien.

[DAN00H]

if you are finding it difficult to get the uni joint to stop from flopping about and going onto the nuts, then grab your trusty electricial tape and run it around the joint a few tumes. will be tight initially, but works a treat you can also get really handy and use shrink wrap over the joint, then apply heat!

LW - I'm surprised you cant drop the turbo enough to clear, perhaps remove the metal oil drain direct from the turbo?

[Ants]

Forget Uni joints, get yourself a 12mm ratchet spanner or set of racthet spanners (it did cost me 80 bucks). Just like GTR032 I changed my GT-R turbos all by myself and yes it was an absolute pain in the butt at the time (since I have never done before) but is definatively worthwhile now.

I can tell you now that you will not be able to take those bottom nuts out (except for the ones on the rhs you can get to them with the ratchet) as you will not have the angle to undo them. Ratchet spanners will be your best friend in this case trust me. Its really worth it.

[GTR-Ben]

Oh what great fun it is to remove the turbo's on a GTR with the engine in the car.

I think I have done it so many times that I have it down to a fine art. I can get them all off pretty fast now.

As others have stated, get some cheap spanners etc and customize them. bend, weld etc.

A bent spanner with a socket welded on is useful.

Getting to the manifold bolts I drop the turbo enough so I can fit a 1/4 drive extension through the gap and put a 1/4 drive socket on the nut. It's fiddly... but works

[Duncan]

a set of stubby ratchet spanners are your friend. www.transquip.com

and yes, you might need all week to do it

Just wait until you have to put the damn things back on again, I found the bloody water and oil lines with Banjo fittings a real pain to get started without threading them

[lwells]

I managed to loose the washer under the water line. Far out they are thin. Hopefully not too hard to replace :confused:

I think you meant this Transquip: http://www.transquip.com.au/

Edit: Given the extremely small space between the runners, wouldn't a longer/thinner ratchet, not a stubby, be more appropriate?

LW.

[Duncan]

umm the copper washers can be hard to find the right size, from memory we got new ones from Lee brothers in Paramatta.

I think we used stubbys but they can be a pain to put enough torque on as well. We had a set of long ratchet spanners as well but it depends if you want to buy one of everything...