Jump to content
SAU Community

Found my fuel/petrol leak !

Birnie

By Birnie,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

Birnie Veteran

Birnie

Posted
Posted

I was filling up yesteday and when i removed the nozel, the metal inlet came up a bit with it...hmmmmm, gave it a small pull with my fingers and the whole thing just popped out! There was a black glue like substane that held it in place, didn't look like much there and had deteriated a bit.

So my question, what do i use to glue it back in?

It must be something along the lines of Selly's no more gaps but obviously needs to be petrol resistant. Any ideas?

Thanks... :rolleyes:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/72328-found-my-fuelpetrol-leak/
Share on other sites
superspit Mentor

superspit

Posted
Posted

yep..'gold'....

the no more nails used on my car came apart 6 months ago! what a joke!!

Anyways, the stuff above looks shit hot and shiny bright, use that...or...

Do what I've done, remove the remnents of gluey muck and that's it. Nice big hole now!!!

Oh yeah!!...I had to change my fuel filter as it got clogged from the goop they used to attach the adaptor and car wouldn't go!!

All ace now, but!!

Birnie Veteran

Birnie

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Well i ended up using the Loctite stuff but not the one pictured above....it was a stip of blue/white stuff that you had to knead together..(remineded me of that redlight/green light chewing gum on Mission Impossible..haha) Cost me 9.99 It is super rock solid and for the first time ever, i got the psshhhh vacuum sound when opening the cap for my next fill. Must have worked!

As for not filling it right up...and crayons n easles....get working on Windows Paintbrush...i wanna know damn it !

Thanks peeps :(

sparkmanv11 Enthusiast

sparkmanv11

Posted
Posted

Thought I was the only one in the world that has this problem. Only occurs on track days at Mallala S.A. Thought it was the cap so got a new genuine cap at Nissan. Next track day leaked like a !@#$%. Car is a series II R33 GTR. In desperation did a search of forum " should have done it months ago" and found this thread. I checked the nozzle insert tonite and could not find the movement you all speak about. There is a rubber boot liner that goes around the filler out to the edge of the cover opening. Does it leak from behind this cover where it joins the filler. If so how does this boot come off for repair. No matter what level the tank is at I never get a ssssssh on opening HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!!. Cant keep on affording to pump fuel out almost didnt make it back to Adelaide last track day.

wrxhoon Grand Master

wrxhoon

Posted
Posted

Its the restrictor they put in for compliance , sometimes they fix it with sikaflex , the fuel melts it na then it leaks , common problem with most imports .

You have to take the restrictor out and fix it with a fuel resistent substance .

Birnie Veteran

Birnie

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Thought I was the only one in the world that has this problem. Only occurs on track days at Mallala S.A. Thought it was the cap so got a new genuine cap at Nissan. Next track day leaked like a !@#$%. Car is a series II R33 GTR. In desperation did a search of forum " should have done it months ago" and found this thread. I checked the nozzle insert tonite and could not find the movement you all speak about. There is a rubber boot liner that goes around the filler out to the edge of the cover opening. Does it leak from behind this cover where it joins the filler. If so how does this boot come off for repair. No matter what level the tank is at I never get a ssssssh on opening HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!!. Cant keep on affording to pump fuel out almost didnt make it back to Adelaide last track day.

Same as me dude

Noticed it at Wakefiled park track day doing the hairpin left turn

Only becuase someone saw fuel pouring out when driving behind.

Did the same as, bought the fuel cap...no difference

Anyway, after mine nearly fell out ( a year later of 3/4 tank fills....grrrrrr) i finally did something about it.

There was bugger all gooo stuff holding it in.

I guess when you're a compliancer, you just wack it in and move on to the next car.

So even if yours in in real tight, might have enought goo to hold it tighht but not the full circumfance of the pipe so no complete seal. Mine now has HEAPS !

I fully layered inside the pipe with that stuff, and layered the outside of the restrictor insert......pushed it in REALLY tight ! ..and as i siad, no have the psssshhhh sound when opening. The stuff also says it's fuel/oil proof so hoepfully that's the end of it.

Good luck !

sparkmanv11 Enthusiast

sparkmanv11

Posted
Posted

Thanks, for the replies, I will try to get to Abahn to find the miracle loctite blue/white stuff that will stop the 98 octane rooster tail behind my car and get my psssshhhh back. However if I cant get it before the track day this weekend can the compliancing fuel filler restrictor be taken out and the standard fuel cap screwed in temporarily. I cant let the EVO club thats running the track day not have competition.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      33 GTR Broken front wheel knuckle

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      That's probably OK. That's a face to face compression joint between two surfaces with the clamping load provided by those bolts. So.... it's unlikely that the bolts will end up feeling that load in shear, unless the clamping surfaces are not large enough, bolts not got enough tension on them, etc etc to prevent the two faces from moving wrt each other. Which... I would hope the designers have considered, seeing as it's probably one of the most important things the upright has to do apart from resist collapsing in its own right. But yes, it would definitely be worth asking them what their safety factor on that part of the design was. I tend to think that the casting, being a casting, is not necessarily the strongest bit of material in the world. It's about an inch square, and when you think about the loads that are being put into it, you have to wonder what safety factor the Nissan boys (and every other OEM engineer who has designed all the millions of other uprights that look essentially the same) used to account for defective casting, aging, severe impacts on the wheel, etc etc. 
    • R32 TT
      33 GTR Broken front wheel knuckle

      By R32 TT · Posted

      Those bolts would be orders of magnitude stronger that cast aluminium though.  And its mainly clamping force, not shear they are dealing with?
    • MBS206
      33 GTR Broken front wheel knuckle

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Except all that twisting force that is breaking a cast piece, appears to be going through 4 bolts in the picture Johnny posted of the BryPar one...
    • GTSBoy
      R34 auto to manual conversion help

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      The smart approach is to use the gearbox loom from the manual car. Makes it a lot easier - just plugs into the switches on the box and plugs into the main loom up near the fusebox. Then you only need to deal with bypassing the inhibit switch. The other approach requires you to use the wiring diagram to identify those wires by colour and location, perhaps even indulging in a little multimeter action to trace them end to end to make sure, and then.... you will have the answers you need. The R34 wiring diagram is available on-line (no, I do not have a link to it myself - I would have to do a search if I wasn't able to go to the copy I have at home).
    • Manur33
      R34 auto to manual conversion help

      By Manur33 · Posted

      Hi, i’m converted my r34 4dr auto to manual but need help with gearbox wiring. There are bunch of wires no idea which one for speedo drive, neutral, reverse can anyone help me. IMG_6860.mov
×
×
  • Create New...