Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey everyone,

with at least one of my 34 coil packs kicking the bucket, i thought f*ck it, i'll just go get the good stuff (splitfire) and not have to worry bout it again...

now justjap have em at around $990, and the sole aussie distributor in nSW has them for $990 as well... but Nengun has them for under $600 with shipping???

am i missing something here? if i'm not, i'll just order 'em straight away from nengun.

cheers,

daniel

P.S. Are Splitfire U.S. or Japan company? I don't know where it would be shipped from if i bought them from Nengun... :confused:

yeah, under $600 INCLUDES shipping, estimate of around $54...

that's why i was wondering if i was just completely missing something, considering how much other places were selling them for...

Yep.

Buy it from Nengun.

Australian Distributors have to keep stock, rent a premises, pay wages etc, hence the higher price.

Nengun is just a dude in Japan running a website who get's an order and payment from you and me, places an order with the supplier in Japan then ships them off.

You have to wait for two weeks to get the parts.

I shopped around for a month or 2 in Australia (~$1,000) before eventually buying from Nengun (~$615).

I swear most australian shops would be better off just buying small quantities from Nengun (even with import taxes etc he is still cheaper than aussie shops).

It's just like a local HJC Motorsport shop was trying to sell me a PowerFC + H/C for $2,200 (Nengun wanted ~$1,200 delivered, now about $1,000 delivered). I nearly fell over backwards! He told me his wholesale price (aussie distributor) was about $1,900.

Then I showed him the Nengun/Greenline websites on his PC and he nearly fell over :D

The funny this is, the people that aren't aware of the Japanese shops would happily pay the aussie prices and not think anything of it.

The only problem is there is no stock in Japan at the moment. Nengun had a promotion going that started early April but sold out almost immediately.

And yes, the prices of under $600 included shipping

I shopped around for a month or 2 in Australia (~$1,000) before eventually buying from Nengun (~$615).  

I swear most australian shops would be better off just buying small quantities from Nengun (even with import taxes etc he is still cheaper than aussie shops).

It's just like a local HJC Motorsport shop was trying to sell me a PowerFC + H/C for $2,200 (Nengun wanted ~$1,200 delivered, now about $1,000 delivered). I nearly fell over backwards! He told me his wholesale price (aussie distributor) was about $1,900.  

Then I showed him the Nengun/Greenline websites on his PC and he nearly fell over :D

The funny this is, the people that aren't aware of the Japanese shops would happily pay the aussie prices and not think anything of it.

Nengun does not deal with businesses.

Did anyone mension that they are also cheaper because aussie tax/duty is not include in that price(this is where most if not all of your saving comes from). if you get picked up at customs its about another 25% ontop of nenguns price.

Not to mension costs in retuns if the item shipped is the wrong part or faulty (not likly but possible) also there is sometimes a pretty long wait for parts (weeks to months). yes overseas is cheaper but it does have its risks

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Should be more than fine, especially the overall fuel pressure would never exceed 3.5bar (assuming that thing never gets more than 0.5bar of boost in stock form). According to the chart, it's 11amps.
    • I definitely know the first rule here, look first, ask second. I've seen many people get roasted 😂 I found a few diagrams for the RB, but I'm yet to come across one for the VQ. From what I have read, the pump gets the +12v along with the FPCM, and it's the negative wire that gets passed through the resistor to regulate the voltage. So I assume I can just ground the negative wire at the pump to eliminate the FPCM control. But I really wanted to see the VQ circuit diagram first to make sure I understood it correctly. Once the new pump is in I'll do some testing to see how it behaves, and in the meantime, I'll keep looking for a wiring diagram. Thanks for your help mate, your time is greatly appreciated.    
    • Maybe? I have the Supercheap ToolPro low thingo. It has a somewhat smaller diameter lifting "bowl" than you would expect on a workshop grade trolley jack, and a split rubber pad to suit that diameter. It clears the "N1" style skirts I have. Probably wouldn't if the jack's bowl and a suitably larger rubber block were in use. Having said that though.....you only need the rubber block to exist on the inner side of the pinchweld, so could carve away any rubber that fouled the skirt, leaving some there for "insurance" </simples>
    • I used to do that (sills with rubber jack block).. ... then I got side skirts, and there's no way for the jack to actually work there, the jack pad itself on the jack is too big. Is the answer to use a... smaller (?) jack? Hmmm.
    • I have too much trauma from every skyline I've ever seen having crushed jack points/pinch welds lol.    Yep, works 100%, it's what I use when I'm using the quick jack. Don't know why I can't also bring myself to do the same thing when I'm using a jack. I blame the skyline PTSD. 
×
×
  • Create New...