Jump to content
SAU Community

180sx RB26 conversion question

[L]platenewb
 Share

Recommended Posts

[L]platenewb Newbie

[L]platenewb

Posted
Posted

What modifications would needed to be done for a RB26 conversion into an 180sx?

Also, how much money would it cost? I know that an RB26DETT r32 from JustJaps is $6500(give or take a few hundred), is there any other costs i should consider keeping in mind that i can do most of the minor adjustments myself.

Also, added to this engine conversion, is it possible to turn this 180sx RWD into a GTR AWD? Again, what would is needed to be done to make this happen?

thanks in advance.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/73034-180sx-rb26-conversion-question/
Share on other sites
prae Rising Star

prae

Posted
Posted

Engine mounts, R33 GTSt gearbox (identical internally to R33 GT-R gearboxes less the front transfer case for AWD), radiator (stock 180SX radiators won't cope with an RB26), ECU, brake upgrade (to atleast R33 GTSt spec), new intercooler piping, new front pipes for exhaust made up, and getting the whole thing engineered + roadworthied.

No you can't turn the 180SX into AWD, well, not without truckloads of money

It's cheaper to dump an RB20 or RB25 (or some hybrid of those two) into the 180SX.

Also, why ditch the stock CA18 (89-91) and SR20 (91-97) engines anyway? They're great engines with heaps of potential (except the CA18's are getting a bit old now..)

neil_se Experienced

neil_se

Posted
Posted

I assume the halfcut would come with wiring, ecu, intercooler, radiator, but most don't come with brakes.

halfcut ($6500)

r32 crossmember ($150-250)

modified sump ($300-500)

r33 gtst gearbox ($1200-1500)

flywheel and clutch ($500-1000)

machine speedo drive sensor ($?)

custom tailshaft ($500)

brake upgrade ($600-2000)

intercooler piping ($400-800)

exhaust ($400-1000)

fuel pump ($200-400)

mating wiring looms ($350)

Labour ($0-3000)

So you're looking at about 11k bare minimum to 16k for good clutch, s/s exhaust and i/c piping and labour. Zoom did the conversion themselves and it cost them 11.5k.

PRO-L20 Proficient

PRO-L20

Posted
Posted

Umm I've seen an RB25DET NEO for sale on this forum for 3000. Whole package apart from loom, which is like 350 max from wreckers.

I've seen an SR20DET including everything for 1400 on a forum. You could just buy an RB25DET and find someone who knows how to do the job and get mates rates. If not see the quote on RB25DET into 180SX. RB20 is not worth it.

resonance Contributor

resonance

Posted
Posted

<180sx purist>Why do this? The SR20DET is capable of assloads of power if you want, especially with the cost of a RB26 conversion. With some internal mods, you could pull over 500rwkw from it. See Theo's S15 drag car - does 9's with an S13 SR20DET. And I saw 2 180's at Autosalon doing 333rwkw, one with just a HKS 3030something turbo and FMIC (not that it would last every day at that boost). Besides, the added weight of the RB26 will wreck the balance of the car, and overall make it heavier (thus requiring more power). < /180sx purist>

But if you want to do it, do it. It will be interesting! :cheers:

TracidTrax Grand Master

TracidTrax

Posted
Posted
platenewb']What modifications would needed to be done for a RB26 conversion into an 180sx?

Also, how much money would it cost? I know that an RB26DETT r32 from JustJaps is $6500(give or take a few hundred), is there any other costs i should consider keeping in mind that i can do most of the minor adjustments myself.

Also, added to this engine conversion, is it possible to turn this 180sx RWD into a GTR AWD? Again, what would is needed to be done to make this happen?

thanks in advance.

mate done the engine conversion and theres lots involved so prepare to dig deep

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 04-LOOX
      R34 GTR Vspec Garage Sale - All must go!

      By 04-LOOX · Posted

      Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...