Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yes CEF11E is correct. It was difficult to tell by the pics but it appears that the nit is connected corerctly to the actuator but cannont clearly see if you have other barb connected to compressor side of turbo. I believe its in the way it is installed that is the problem, perhaps you have the wrong line at wrong point..

Mark

  • Replies 1.8k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

From the picture i can see the solanoid is still connected. I would advise to disconnect it. As i have never seen under the bonnet of an r34 i cant see where all those connections are going.

if you wanted to test it and isolate the the problem.

1. look at the turbo compressor housing. these should be a hose coming off it connect this to the BOTTOM of the boost controller and leave the other side connected to the actuator as you have it.

ok so controller to wastegate actuator con is ok.

where the T piece is the are 2 hoses con. The top one cons to the bottom of the solenoid.

The bottom T piece con connects to the turbo pipe (pipe beneath air intake pipe bout the same diam).The other pipe not con to the T piece comes from a silver pipe below and cons to the top of the solenoid.

The 3 pipes are all within that black platic sheath secured by plastic tie.

So with this in mind u say:

1. leave con from control to wastegate.

2. Disconect the top T piece con that goes to bottom solenoid con.

3. Connect bottom (thicker) T piece con to the controller directly (the one that goes to turbo pipe)

4. Disconnect the other pipe (from silver pipe below, not con to T piece) that goes to top of solenoid.

So basically take solenoid out of equation. Is this going to cause any problems? Thanks all for your patience just want to verify before I go out and do this. LOL I'll get there one day I hope!

lol mate i can make one for $9. u can get everything u need from a good hardware store...

Finding the components is the easy part making them to precisley control boost is by far something else. A number of people have tried to copy without success and caused damage to engines.

If I give you all the materials to build a house can you build it right???

There is always someone that likes to be a goose.....

Mark

As other guys have said boosts earlier and holds very well and holds it in a stable manner. Basically, even on idle the boost guage does not sit near zero anymore its like 1/5 of the way up. Torque builds quickly making the turbo more usable = better average power. I only have this and K&N Panel and I've noticed a good difference in limited testing.

Working installation on R34 below. Happy to help as others have helped me, as u can see I had some dramas :rofl: But all good now. Mmm perhaps I should plug up that T piece. Next step for me is full CES Racing zorst, should get the silver service taxi moving nicely.

Picture_0121.jpg

even on idle the boost guage does not sit near zero anymore its like 1/5 of the way up

That would indicate you previously had a vacuum leak, idle and light throttle should sit under zero, moderate throttle should be zero plus. :rofl:

Yes could have exagerated that point in retrospect (guess i was excited at finally getting it working). I think that the guage does sit higher on idle than it used to though or am i just imaging this? Certainly easier to get that turbo whistle happening in either case. Think I might have to take it out tonight again, possibly up a few hills. All in the name of testing of course :kewl:

i still say this is THE BEST boost controller i have ever seen i cant get over it

congradulations to simark87 for the design and engineering of the product

this is my hands down the most bang for buck i have bought for the car also 100% reliable and effective and safe

so if i have dialled in 15psi or 20psi thats all im going to get no more no less no spikes no shit

congratulations!!

matt

boostcont0037vy.jpg

boostcont0028cg.jpg

Hi guys,

Glad you all like it.

Special for skyliners remians at $28 expresss delivered in AUS.

Just email me at [email protected] with your oder adn address, I will then send you my details and supply a ref number.

Cheers all,

You lot make me want to trade in my cordia for a skyline...lol

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...