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I found a good cheap boost controller for $22!!!

CEF11E

By CEF11E,
in Engines & Forced Induction

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pinoi_boi_r33 Community Regular

pinoi_boi_r33

Posted
Posted

sumo unfortunately i can't forget the textbook "crap" as you say.

Ok think about physics: say for arguments sake.

area of ball bearing=.5cm2

k=8N/cm

instance (1):

Boost = 5N/cm2

and the screw is not screwed in at all. ie. spring has not been pretensioned.

F=kx

F=Press*Area

x=5*.5/8

x=.3125 cm

instance (2)

boost is same = 5N/cm2

k is same 8N/cm

area same .5cm2

but screw has been turned in .1cm

equation is

F=k(x+.1)

x+.1=5*.5/8

x=.2125cm

so even if screw is turned in the spring still has some compression. Hence air can get to the wastegate, this is my confusion and sumo can u explain what you mean?

"So if screw sol wont let boost past till its 13psi, wastgate sees 0 psi." The thing is it does, or should.

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powerpuff Newbie

powerpuff

Posted
Posted

I think you'll find that even though the ball bearing is lifting the flow and hence presure is limited because the ball bearing isn't open far enough.... Of course in this design there will be some creep still. I find it suprising that it can both control creep and boost so well, but hey if it works it works.

simark87 Enthusiast

simark87

Posted
Posted

Hi Guys,

Powerpuff thinks logical which is how I designed this controller plain ordinary logic.

(with some knowhow thrown in) :wassup:

If the wastegate can creep as pressure builds, then so can the controller ball.

But, is it better that the ball creeps or the wastegate?

All say Ball together!!

The ball may creep slightly so what 'does' get through is not sufficient to make the wastegate creep.

The reason you ask? Answer: the pressure from the ball creep is evacuated OUT of the tiny bleed hole that I specifically built in to the design. That means there is NO pressure great enough to budge the wastegate UNTIL the controller slams open and the pressure rushes to the wastegate in one hit (during this time, the bleed valve is overwhelmed and is no match for the burst)

The result: full boost. what you have set is what you get-no more no less

After backing off the ballslams shut. Then any pressure trapped between the wastegate and the controller is evacuated out of the bleed hole (this ELIMINATES SPIKE as there is no pressure left trapped between the wastegate and controller that adds to the next burst of boost- causing the dreaded spike). This process also stops back pressure to the turbo which would try to slow down the turbo buy attempting to spin it in the wrong direction thus causing lag.. Result: Far less lag.

turbotech: less spike, less lag, precise boost, no bullshit!

Mark

Sumo Mentor

Sumo

Posted
Posted
sumo unfortunately i can't forget the textbook "crap" as you say.  

Ok think about physics: say for arguments sake.

area of ball bearing=.5cm2  

k=8N/cm

instance (1):  

Boost = 5N/cm2

and the screw is not screwed in at all. ie. spring has not been pretensioned.

F=kx

F=Press*Area

x=5*.5/8

x=.3125 cm  

instance (2)

boost is same = 5N/cm2

k is same 8N/cm

area same .5cm2

but screw has been turned in .1cm

equation is  

F=k(x+.1)

x+.1=5*.5/8

x=.2125cm

so even if screw is turned in the spring still has some compression. Hence air can get to the wastegate, this is my confusion and sumo can u explain what you mean?

"So if screw sol wont let boost past till its 13psi, wastgate sees 0 psi." The thing is it does, or should.

But, the spring rate is adjustable - its not a constant. What should happen is any pressure that gets passed should be bled off. But if you get enough air flow, the bleeder might only be able to bleed off 1/2 PSI, so the wastegate will see full boost.

I did physics at school, and even though that the ideas of DC motors, magnetism and electricity stay the same, I have not once in my trade had to resort to using the basic equations.

Cheers

Sumo

simark87 Enthusiast

simark87

Posted
Posted

HI Guys,

Message regarding payment of controllers:

A number of skyliners have included the ref number I gave out and as such I have been able to correlate the deposit with the correct name and had their item already sent.

However, so far two guys have not used the ref number. One has just got a BSB number and the other simply wrote 'boost controller'.

In short, I don't know who made the payment so I cant send the item. Please email me at [email protected] if you are one of the guys who did not use the ref number.

For all future puchasers, please ensure this ref number is used as it is impossible to work out who it is from.

Cheers,

Mark

Dee 33 Community Regular

Dee 33

Posted
Posted

Someone asked this before but I didn't see the answer.

Can you just switch this device in place of your current aftermarket bleed valve? My stock solenoid is out of the equation as I have extensive mods, and I've had a GFB Bleed valve put in. I am very interested in this item as in 1st-3rd gear I'm not hitting full boost until 4000rpm. 4th and 5th hit it quicker as it seems the turbo has more time to build up boost.

So... will this item directly replace the bleed valve or would I be running both (or remove bleed valve altogether). Thanks for any help guys. I'm very close to buying one of these.

Andi Experienced

Andi

Posted
Posted

Ok so I got mine today Mark, Thanks! A nice dark blue one too - good for keeping the attention away. I've got a question though - I don't have a Skyline but have a GTiR so I'm not sure how to hook it up.

I've attached two images; one of a GFB Bleed Valve already hooked up and one of my boost solenoid breakdown. Just hoping you can answer a few questions Mark, or if anybody else can help.

1. Can I just replace the GFB unit with your one with the same connections?

2. If not, using the boost solenoid sheet can you show me where or how I'm suppose to hook up your unit?

Thanks,

Andy

CEF11E Veteran

CEF11E

Posted
  • Author
Posted

1. Can I just replace the GFB unit with your one with the same connections?

Yes.

1.connect the line coming from the actuator to the SIDE connection of the new controller

2. connect the other hose that was on the GFB to the BOTTOM of the new controller

thats it!

try it out and post your results for us!

note exactly what boost you were running before, how much it spiked and what rpm you got full boost at.

and then test the new controller and note the same things.

the more results we have the better for others to make a decision on wether this controller will be right for them :D

Andi Experienced

Andi

Posted
Posted

Ok, so from the diagram - you want me to connect the unit between the boost solenoid and hose number 5 correct? So the 'side' of the new unit will be plugged into directly hose 5, and I will need another hose to connect the 'bottom' of the new unit back into the solenoid?

EDIT: That diagram with the GFB was from another GTiR owner. ATM my car is runnign stock boost (10.6psi) and has not aftermarket unit control - hence why I'm unsure how to connect this new unit.

Thanks!

Andy

CEF11E Veteran

CEF11E

Posted
  • Author
Posted

ok. from the diagram...

take 5 of the solanoid and connect 5 to the SIDE of the boost controller.

take(to air duct) off the solanoid and connect it to the BOTTOM of the boost controller and you are done :D

so you leave the solanoid completly out of the loop. and you are unpluging both connections from the solanoid and using them both for the new boost controller

Andi Experienced

Andi

Posted
Posted

The way you have described means that the stock solenoid is no longer in use correct? Well can you show me another way to connect it 'with' the stock solenoid? Reason being is that its has been proven that the stock solenoid actually assists spool up times and also has a safetly limp mode which could actually save my engine.

Sorry to be picky, but if you're still willing to help that would be most appreciated. Thanks again!

Andy

FATAZZ Grand Master

FATAZZ

Posted
Posted

ok,the bleed valve i just took out,its not connected to the bov at all, in the instructions simark sent me,says i should connect it back to the bov, when i connected the first bleed valve to the bov, it wouldnt go up or down in boost,just made flutter noises

CEF11E Veteran

CEF11E

Posted
  • Author
Posted
The way you have described means that the stock solenoid is no longer in use correct? Well can you show me another way to connect it 'with' the stock solenoid? Reason being is that its has been proven that the stock solenoid actually assists spool up times and also has a safetly limp mode which could actually save my engine.

Sorry to be picky, but if you're still willing to help that would be most appreciated. Thanks again!

Andy

hey andy you cant leave the solanoid connected its gotta go!!!!

it will think its still incontrol and mess things up. you will need to connect it as i discribed

CEF11E Veteran

CEF11E

Posted
  • Author
Posted
ok,the bleed valve i just took out,its not connected to the bov at all, in the instructions simark sent me,says i should connect it back to the bov, when i connected the first bleed valve to the bov, it wouldnt go up or down in boost,just made flutter noises

hey champ, did you buy that other bleed valve from me? and it didnt do the job?

sorry to hear that.

just follow the instructions on the bit of paper and you will be fine :D

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