Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 1.8k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

got my Turbotech, all in under a week.

put it in, no joke only took me 2 adjustments and its now holding at 10psi perfectly.! boost shoots up like a switch and just freezes on 10!

1st gear is a waste now since the revs shoot up so quick im only in 1st for about 1 second!

Best mod for under $50 EASY

He must be busy as. Never spoke to the guy, never replied to my emails. But paid him and the thing was at my door within a couple of days. Cant complain. smooth

Edited by aym23q
so theres now 2 people selling them hey?

which link to ebay is the best one which most people have used to purchase this?

cheers,

chriso

I got mine from Mark...great service...mine was lost in the mail and he sent another no questions asked! I installed it today and dispite not reading which way to turn the screw...heheh 1 bar was a bit much! but once I sused it out it held its boost perfect and 0.7 bar.....works great and seriously took about 5min to install...for $30 have to get 1...its a must have mod!

Installed mine today and have been testing for about 2 hours :thumbsup:

I just can't get the boost down on it, it's currently pushing around 12 psi at about 90% throttle.

I've got the bolt in just enough so that I can see the spring only just move through the little hole.

I'm after about 9 psi.

I thought it could be a leak as the tube connections weren't so great so I used some zip ties and they're tight as now.

Heres some pics, does everything look okay? It's a 34.

Installed mine today and have been testing for about 2 hours :thumbsup:

I just can't get the boost down on it, it's currently pushing around 12 psi at about 90% throttle.

I've got the bolt in just enough so that I can see the spring only just move through the little hole.

I'm after about 9 psi.

I thought it could be a leak as the tube connections weren't so great so I used some zip ties and they're tight as now.

Heres some pics, does everything look okay? It's a 34.

One of the lines going into the solenoid goes to what I think is the BoV line, the other is blocked off with a screw.

The connection on the bottom of the controller goes to the nipple coming out of pipe that leads from the turbo to the intercooler.

The connection on the side of the controller goes to the wastegate actuator.

As far as I can tell it's all setup correctly, it just doesn't let the wastegate see enough pressure.

In the line coming from the turbo there is a brass fitting inside the tube, starting to wonder if this could be dropping pressure.

post-26262-1145253429.jpg

ive "seller a question" to both guys selling them on Ebay - no replies

I dont know which link to go for in this thread for the boost controllers guys!

ive "seller a question" to both guys selling them on Ebay - no replies

I dont know which link to go for in this thread for the boost controllers guys!

will this help you

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/JRD-Boost-Controlle...1QQcmdZViewItem

dude just email him at [email protected] ? think that was it. just say how much for a thing and hell say x, this will be your number . i eamiled him there he replied through another persona "simark" but yeah he got it said 35 delivered and i sent money and email that was it. answered my first email but not the rest, but who cares unless something went wrong, seemed safe enough to me gave me a order number and everything

zappn where does the hose on the top nipple of the boost solenoid go? looks like that could be it to me cant really see but maybe its set up wrong. the hose from the opposite end of the controller to the screw should go straight to the intake after the turbo somewhere..like a cooler pipe or something, the side hose goes to the wastegate. follow the lines and make sure thats whats happenin my rb25 holds at 7psi atm as clutch is cooked, so 12 is a bit much. maybe neo is different the setup looks similar though

Oh dear ... I just lost the spring into my engine bay!! The ball bearing didnt get to far, but I searched everywhere for the spring and I cannot find it :) Any way of getting a replacement spring or am i just going to have to fork out again for another unit?

Wow, im a dumbass :ermm:

^^^ Just try to get a generic spring.

Length: it should be enough to hold the ball in place without too much preload while knob is out most of the way.

Stiffness: Nothing too stiff if you are running standard boost or a little above.

That is my opinion anyway. I am not liable for anything that may go wrong as a result of this.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Just had this happen to me too.  R32 GTR.   Also broke "just before going out onto the track" - someone up there is looking out for us... Very scary since I was about to do a narrow street course with zero run-off and curbs everywhere. Many people on here upgrading to billet uprights and R35 bearings?   Or buying new OEM knuckles?  I am not keen to replace with another s/h 30 year old fatigued part.
    • Top off with distilled water and see what happens. If you keep losing coolant then you know to start looking.
    • Nope.    Grab a varex and turn it down as you get close to home, win win? 
    • So, I've had my V36 for about a month now and have already copped an "excessive exhaust noise" notification from QLD TMR, reported by someone in my local area. It's a twin as per the original, and can have a bit of a throaty note to it when idling cold 😄 and if I do get up it a bit, it can be noisy, but it did pass a roadworthy inspection before sale, so.... ... but in the interest of being a good neighbour, I do want to quieten it down a bit. Is anyone here running a quiet aftermarket cat-back on their V36 or 370Z? And the big, bold question: does an aftermarket cat-back really make much of a performance difference on these cars?
    • The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
×
×
  • Create New...