Jump to content
SAU Community

I found a good cheap boost controller for $22!!!

CEF11E

By CEF11E,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 1.8k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Posted Images

mike_a31 Contributor

mike_a31

Posted
Posted

It may seem strange but i was having problems with mine havin varied boost levels while driving, i have since then mounted the MBC vertical as b4 it was on its side kinda tucked down the back of the power steering resvoir. Since mounting it vertical i have noticed no more vaired boost levels, smashes straight up to 15psi and holds there strong.

Murry33 Experienced

Murry33

Posted
Posted (edited)

I've got one of these boost controllers for about 3 months now, works excellent i don't notice any spikes either as long as you tightened the bolt at the top properly and make sure it's connected firmly it should be working fine.

i have it mounted vertically too.

Edited by NeesaanGTS
RB32 Collaborator

RB32

Posted
Posted
I've got one of these boost controllers for about 3 months now, works excellent i don't notice any spikes either as long as you tightened the bolt at the top properly and make sure it's connected firmly it should be working fine.

i have it mounted vertically too.

but can you guys lower your boost level to .5 bar if u wish??

jake33 Experienced

jake33

Posted
Posted (edited)
but can you guys lower your boost level to .5 bar if u wish??

yes i can. on the last thread or 2 it holds perfectly at 7psi. :laugh: got a R33

as i screw down more (although very sensitive... screwed down 2 rotations and it went up to 16 :rofl: ) up the boost goes. such an amazing little peice of work :laugh::P:P .

i set mine to 9psi (no fmic yet) and it holds boost between gear changes(i.e when shifting at full boost it will only lower to about 6 or 7 then hit straight back up to 9), feels heaps smoother comming on to boost compared to my old gfb which was set at 10 and seemed very laggy. full credit to the guy who makes them. works perfect. (came with the the hole already drilled)

i documented the install from the GFB to the turbotech over 3 photos. (photos are massive 1600 x 1200, forgot to change the setting)

post-35246-1173234652.jpg

post-35246-1173234719.jpg

post-35246-1173234773.jpg

Edited by jake33
siddr20 Grand Master

siddr20

Posted
Posted (edited)

Jake33- I had exactly the same boost controller as you (GFBs in black)

anyways i found that controller to spike heaps past a certain point. But then again that controller was hard to figure out which way to turn with the alen key..

Im now using this cheap 22 buck one.. Does the jon fine.. Set mine at 0.8bar.. Spikes to nearly 1 bar on cold days in 2nd gear if i push it..

Otherwise its pretty constant..

Have you guys earth the black wire? I heard it will help a bit with the smoothness when you spool up..

Overall im happy with the 22buck controller..

-----------

Quick question...

If you put the controller in the wrong way, it wont boost at all? Or you cant turn up the boost?

What happens?

Cheers

Edited by siddr20
Xander Apprentice

Xander

Posted
Posted
Jake33- I had exactly the same boost controller as you (GFBs in black)

anyways i found that controller to spike heaps past a certain point. But then again that controller was hard to figure out which way to turn with the alen key..

Im now using this cheap 22 buck one.. Does the jon fine.. Set mine at 0.8bar.. Spikes to nearly 1 bar on cold days in 2nd gear if i push it..

Otherwise its pretty constant..

Have you guys earth the black wire? I heard it will help a bit with the smoothness when you spool up..

Overall im happy with the 22buck controller..

-----------

Quick question...

If you put the controller in the wrong way, it wont boost at all? Or you cant turn up the boost?

What happens?

Cheers

If you put this device in the wron way, the wastgate will not open. In other words not a good idea. Just remember pipe from the intercooler goes to the bottom of the device and the pipe from the side goes to the wastgate.

I have one of these boost controllers, it holds boost really well. I run 10 psi on the street and 12 psi for the track. With the piggy back computer I run it works really well.

scooter_r33 Contributor

scooter_r33

Posted
Posted
I have one of these boost controllers, it holds boost really well. I run 10 psi on the street and 12 psi for the track. With the piggy back computer I run it works really well.

Xander, what piggy back computer are you using?

Thunderbolt Rising Star

Thunderbolt

Posted
Posted
Has anyone else noticed some oily residue around the small hole on their turbotech? Whats causing this and is it something to be concerned about?

I am guessing that you probably don't have a catch can?

Does the boost controller line come off the intercooler pipe?

If you answered yes to the above question, then you would probably find that the intercooler pipes have a film of oil on them and that you are getting a fair amount of blow-by.

roy33 Collaborator

roy33

Posted
Posted
I am guessing that you probably don't have a catch can?

Does the boost controller line come off the intercooler pipe?

If you answered yes to the above question, then you would probably find that the intercooler pipes have a film of oil on them and that you are getting a fair amount of blow-by.

yeah i noticed the same thing on mine was wondering if the seal on the turbo was going?

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By Duncan · Posted

      Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • Kapr
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By Kapr · Posted

      So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
    • 04-LOOX
      R34 GTR Vspec Garage Sale - All must go!

      By 04-LOOX · Posted

      Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
×
×
  • Create New...