Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

just bought mine and it was shipped today so i'll see how it goes =]

what are the odd's it would spike? one of my friends told me not to even bother having it too long just to get an electronic because apparently u couldnt really notice when it spikes and these do spike. its probably been covered but 107 pages lol just a quick insight would be good

thanks

  • Replies 1.8k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

just bought mine and it was shipped today so i'll see how it goes =]

what are the odd's it would spike? one of my friends told me not to even bother having it too long just to get an electronic because apparently u couldnt really notice when it spikes and these do spike. its probably been covered but 107 pages lol just a quick insight would be good

thanks

After having a boost leak sometime ago, that was fixed, took the car for a run and have been turning down the boost, gave it a fair few turns yesterday arvo, and the boost controller still seems to be peaking at 1.5 bar occasionally. Going to turn it down again this arvo, but any reason why it may be doing this? The screw is starting to get pretty tight, hopefully it just needs a bit more adjustment.

interesting 1 for ya. i had my car on a mates dyno a while back. Got 179rwkw @11psi using one of these boost controllers. changed it over to a new turbosmart one just to see if any difference was made to output and got 186rwkw at 11psi.....

interesting huh.... can anyone shed some light on why this might have been??

would have been weather related. a boost controller may change the curve if ever so slightly, but will not change the output KW from your car in any way.

I can't beleive this thread is still going! I brought one these ages ago. It worked brilliantly but I only used it for about 2 weeks as I already had a Power FC boost controller on order. So if anyone wants it and they live in the Victoria Park (WA) area they can have it for $25. :)

bought one of these a few months ago... around september 07. I had it professionally installed by a performance workshop and havent touched it until recently. i upgraded my intercooler and found that my car was over boosting so i tried to reduce the boost.

heres where the problem started, i cant seem to change the boost of the car. first i had the turbotech open all the way, then closed all the way, then i tried with the screw completely out and finally open all the way again. each time the boost spikes to about 1.5 bar which is quite scary for a ceramic turbo. am i doing something wrong?

oh whats more, i'm hearing a strange noise from the engine bay now. sort of a "ch ch ch ch ch". think of a chu chu train. sounds like air leaking from somewhere?

bought one of these a few months ago... around september 07. I had it professionally installed by a performance workshop and havent touched it until recently. i upgraded my intercooler and found that my car was over boosting so i tried to reduce the boost.

heres where the problem started, i cant seem to change the boost of the car. first i had the turbotech open all the way, then closed all the way, then i tried with the screw completely out and finally open all the way again. each time the boost spikes to about 1.5 bar which is quite scary for a ceramic turbo. am i doing something wrong?

oh whats more, i'm hearing a strange noise from the engine bay now. sort of a "ch ch ch ch ch". think of a chu chu train. sounds like air leaking from somewhere?

sounds like u got it plumbed backwards..... weve all done it

Wouldnt mind one of these myself - anyone running one in an R33 GTR? Love to see how you have it plumbed up hey.

Will be running full exhaust from the front pipe back, larger FMIC, PFC.

Planning to just run standard boost 23/7, but maybe that one hour of the day, once a week, where i might want to wind it up somewhat.

The seller doesnt have any items listed on ebay at the moment - may be out of stock.

hey people,

thought id post an update to my findings.

after some thorough diagnostics in conjunction with my workshop, we found that the boost controller was at fault. it seems it's missing the spring which holds the ball in place until the desired pressure is reached. this explains why no adjustment to the screw had an effect on the boost level. however, it doesn't explain why the boost is spiking so much, as the lack of a spring would make the ball "open" immediately thus providing the lowest boost possible. nevertheless, upon removal of the controller, the boost was no longer spiking.

turns out this actually explains a lot of my car's mysteries. since fitting the controller (along with a few other mods) ive had a slew of problems ranging from R&R, knocking, overboosting etc etc which i can now relate back to this.

not trying to knock the product (no pun intended), just thought i'd share my experiences with the community. good to see it's worked well for most, but obviously its not for all. luckily theres been no permanent damage to my car, as i was always quick to back off when it overboosted/knocked

the "professionals" probably opened it and lost the spring

nope, because i had previously opened it and nothing fell out.

even so, spring would not have helped reduce boost as without it, it acts the same as having it on the lowest setting.

  • 3 weeks later...

Just paid for mine and awaiting delivery - Note: cost to skyliners is now $33 (incl. delivery)

Will install in next few days and report back results when added to stock rb25det with cat back 3'' exhaust.

Hello everyone,

i came across this thread while searching the net for a boost controller and am tempted to buy one, but i want to use it on a smaller engine.....a CA18DET with a Garrett t28.

The car isn't currently fitted with a boost controller, and so runs at standard boost (7psi).

Does anyone know if it would be suitable for me to use this? and if so how i can order one?

Cheers.

Hello everyone,

i came across this thread while searching the net for a boost controller and am tempted to buy one, but i want to use it on a smaller engine.....a CA18DET with a Garrett t28.

The car isn't currently fitted with a boost controller, and so runs at standard boost (7psi).

Does anyone know if it would be suitable for me to use this? and if so how i can order one?

Cheers.

Would be fine to use man - can be used on any turbo application

I recently installed my TURBOTECH after it sitting in the glove box for 3 - 4 months

It's running it on a HKS external gate and I must say I'm pretty impressed

Its holds boost awesome, I have set it to 0.5bar and it doesn't spike at all

Well worth the $35 lol

ok im runnin an atomic boost tap set to 7psi but spikes up to 12psi by the redline...

i want one of those $22 boost controllers but im in nz.. :thumbsup: i tried lookin up on ebay but not much luck

does the guy who makes it still come on here? i want one.

ok im runnin an atomic boost tap set to 7psi but spikes up to 12psi by the redline...

i want one of those $22 boost controllers but im in nz.. :) i tried lookin up on ebay but not much luck

does the guy who makes it still come on here? i want one.

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Turbotech-manual-tu...1QQcmdZViewItem

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • And if you want more power, more reliably, and cheaper, go get the Aussie RB... The 4L Barra and put that in instead.
    • No cats will keep discolouring the rear bar. Sends white paint a weird yellow stain. Cut and polish normally gets it out, but you'll be doing that every fortnight I found.
    • Both heads will be equally reliable or unreliable depending on what you do to them.  Stock the RB26 head will flow more. You have access to the stock intake ITB manifold on the RB26 cheaply which flows really well(1000hp+).   Arguably more aftermarket support for RB26, though in Aus we love our RB30 SOHC heads too.    The only downsides to the RB26 head is if you have a VL commodore and want to keep the SOHC look.  Where you may have an issue is drilling out the rb30 block for the bigger head studs but if you are building a big power motor you'd probably put bigger studs on the SOHC head too.  This is just about finding a good machine shop, sometimes easier said than done.  RB30 head worked can make big power just like a Rb26 head, so really it actually more comes down to what your preference is for your car.  People now even making billet versions of both.
    • 2630s work perfectly well. There is something to be said for just using the 30 head, as it saves all the pain of the conversion, still makes tons of power, still sounds cool, etc etc. 2630 will obviously make more power again, but the differences are not stupidly big. It really depends on whether you're racing for sheep stations or not. If it's dead serious, then it's a 26 head. If it's just for fun, it could go either way. But the 26 head and the effort to get it set up, etc etc, is part of the fun.
    • I've been building a 26/30 for a few years now. I've had the head built with all the good stuff. I had a 32 gtr but blew it up and yes its all going into a vl but im looking for some advice from some RB nuts on pros and cons on putting a 26 head on a 30 bottom end is it worth it Works are as follows Head -Extensive porting 1mm oversized supertech valves Supertech double springs Supertech valve guides Supertech titanium retainers Tomei solid lifters Tomei 270 x 10.25 cams Head drain Bottom end series 2 rb30 block Cp ceramic coated pistons Eagle rods Romac balancer Oil restrictions  O ringed blah blah spent a fortune And will get a girdle because the 30s arent used to handling that much rpm Nitto billet oil pump Hypertune plenum 6boost mani Refurbed astra pump thats the cover for it in the boot I did have a precision 6262 but sold it because drag car life. Currently building the ass end full 4 link floater rear end with a 2 speed  But the dilemma i have is my mate rekens I should just stick with the 30 head for reliability. Has any one had any issues with mounting the 26 head ie compression blowing gaskets etc. Just looking for some advice from people who have gone down this route. Here's some photos. Blew the oil pump in the gtr and decided to rip the motor out at the time and do a full build only to find it had been a repairable write off so went down this path.     
×
×
  • Create New...