Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 1.8k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Turbotech Electronic Dual Stage Upgrade Kit WITH V2 Manual Boost Controller just ordered. Really looking forward to seeing how this performs compared to my old HDi electronic boost controller. :D

Just had my V2 controller and Electronic Dual Stage Upgrade Kit (missile switch) installed today. For those of you running one, is the missile switch supposed to light up blue when flicked to high boost? It did seem to light up for a few seconds briefly then went dark. I'm not 100% sure as it's not mentioned in the instruction manual at all.

Hey guys,

Just asked this question in another thread but figured this would be a more appropriate place for it, plus might help out people in future who want to know the same thing.

Does anyone know what the quality of TurboTech's boost gauges are like?

I recently ordered a boost controller from TurboTech (after reading how awesome they were) and it came with a mechanical boost gauge.

Haven't hooked it up yet tho, wanted to know if it's even worth installing first.

Now I assume that they are not their own TurboTech branded boost gauges, that they merely on-sell another brands product packaged in with their own.

I also assume that with all the raving reviews of TurboTech's controllers they wouldn't go jeopardising their great reputation by supplying sub-par accessories; but hey, I might be wrong...

Any thoughts/opinions?

I would assume the gauge is accurate "enough" for what you're doing... I've used yumcha vs. jap gauges before and didn't see any real difference between the readings.

Being a mechanical gauge too, it's more simplier to build

I would assume the gauge is accurate "enough" for what you're doing... I've used yumcha vs. jap gauges before and didn't see any real difference between the readings.

Being a mechanical gauge too, it's more simplier to build

Yeah fair point, reason I ask though is because I think (hope) my stock gauge is reading incorrectly. Either that or I'm overboosting.

I did the ol' solder trick to the boost sender unit and it fixed it cutting out randomly, but now that it works all the time the gauge is maxing out when boosting hard.If it does happen to be showing a proper boost pressure, this means its pumping around 14 psi!...

So I want to install the TurboTech to keep it under control but don't want a gauge telling me I'm running a safe 9psi but really I'm on 15 psi and go bang! :down:

Edited by Brad54

on a stock ECU, your motor won't go bang :)

The stock ECU detects knock and drops timing, hence the knock sensor. The only thing that would go bang is your nylon turbo made with fairy floss lol

  • 4 weeks later...

Need to give big props to Turbotech for customer service.

I have had a Turbotech MBC for a good while now and recently I lost the bolt and spring from the controller. Sent Turbotech an email on Ebay to see if I could buy the bits seperately and they straight away just offered to send them to me for free not even charging for postage. Very impressed by them

Need to give big props to Turbotech for customer service.

I have had a Turbotech MBC for a good while now and recently I lost the bolt and spring from the controller. Sent Turbotech an email on Ebay to see if I could buy the bits seperately and they straight away just offered to send them to me for free not even charging for postage. Very impressed by them

lol how did you manage to lose the bolt and spring? Was it installed in your car when you realised? :/

lol how did you manage to lose the bolt and spring? Was it installed in your car when you realised? :/

I had threaded it out real far to make sure it didn't make any more boost than actuator pressure on new turbo. Unfortunately didn't realise it was right on the edge of the thread. I noticed I had lost it the day before tuning the car so unfortunately was only able to tune on actuator pressure

Well, lets just say that this is one awesome bit of kit! Got it in the mail today, and went for a drive, pulled up to adjust it up a bit more, set it to 18psi and it just spools straight up to max boost and friggen sits there. Drops off 1psi at redline but that's it.

I'm am very very impressed. Throttle response is off tap. Cheers guys

  • 4 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
    • So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
×
×
  • Create New...