Jump to content
SAU Community

What is v spec


Recommended Posts

V Spec stands for Victory Spec.

R33s badged with V-spec have slightly more torque - I don't know how they got it though.

I think the R32s have an LSD system - which is the same as the racing fellows used.

The R34s badged as V-spec have stiffer suspention. Btw are all R34s V-spec?

Correct me if I'm wrong on any of that, guys.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

M-Spec was a seperate spec level in the R32 GTSTs (different bodykit, not sure what else)? All R33 GTS25ts are M-Spec though.

yeh in the r32 range, mines a mspec, twin piston front calipers and sunroof aswell?

not sure on the sun roof but mines got the above..

Link to comment
Share on other sites

there are no practical differences between the vspec I, II and regular models. For the extra you would pay for a vspec you can buy the same or better brakes, they bolt straight on. The other key difference in vspec II is the standard rim size but of course everyone changes them anyway.

Don't bother, buy the regular model and do the mods you want. All the key things are the same, engine, Atessa/4wd, abs, suspension etc etc etc

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The V-Specs received the ATTESA E-TS PRO system rather than the standard ATTESA E-TS. This PRO system allows for driving and braking forces at all four wheels independently rather then just front and rear. Therefore making the V-Spec are more suited to track than standard GTRs.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The V-Specs received the ATTESA E-TS PRO system rather than the standard ATTESA E-TS. This PRO system allows for driving and braking forces at all four wheels independently rather then just front and rear. Therefore making the V-Spec are more suited to track than standard GTRs.

not in the R32 I'm afraid :P Yes the 33 and 34s have different ATESSA systems, the vspec being faster and better calibrated ;)

Re the ABS "independant braking force at all wheels" the 32 has 3 channel ABS (front left, front right and rear) while the 33 and 34 have 4 channel ABS (each wheel independant)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • OK so I just bidded $500 on an R33 GTS4 that no one seems to want. Waiting on a call from the agent to see if I won. 32 GTS4 is for sale. I can't deal with the temptation to mod it.
    • Might be there for work later in the year. Wouldn't mind catching up with you fellas - can't have too many beers, but will consume copious amounts of takoyaki while executing an asian squat on the side of the road while you blokes sort out your hangovers.
    • I know one example is a anecdote not data, but I'm running the same Aeroflow 525 at full voltage through a regular relay, and while I've had other fuel problems including melting the factory fuel hat, the pump itself has been fine for years. Of course, they aren't *that* expensive these days, you could swap in a new one and see if the issue is resolve. I think you had a previous thread about fuel problems, have you been monitoring and logging fuel pressure? Is there anything voltage related (for example does the voltage go up when the pressure goes down)
    • Slap a 460L into the car, send its mum.  
    • So last night pulling away from the lights, I lost power for about 1 second. Bit weird, but I kept driving... 5 minutes later the pump completely dies. When I tried to start the car, the pump won't even prime.  I left the car for about an hour, tried to start it and it all appeared fine. Pump primed, car started, got the fuel pressure I should have.... Start driving home, 5 minutes later it dies again. I'm stuck in a shit spot this time going up hill with a car right behind me, so I just let the car continue to turn over while praying to the fuel pump gods. After about 2 minutes of turning the engine over, the fuel pump came back to life and I got home (only about another 5 min away).  So I've been digging around online, it seems like the 525 fuel pumps really don't like to be run at 100% all the time. I've found quite a few examples online of people killing their Walbro 525 pumps within about a year of usage when they are run without PWM.  So, my pump is an Aeroflow 525 (AF49-1057) and I've been running it at 100% without PWM. I'm thinking the Aeroflow 525 didn't like being run at 100% and has burnt itself up.  I really am sick of dealing with fuel pump issues, my current thoughts are -  1. Use a Walbro 450 and run it without PWM. It seems like these pumps hold up pretty well to being run at 100% all the time. I only make about 350kw and can't see me making any more power any time soon so this is probably a fine option.  2. Get a Walbro 525, run it with PWM. I know doing this will annoy me as I feel like with only 350kw, its extra expense that I don't "need" and I'll be thinking the whole time while setting it up that I should have gone with option 1. I know I'll be happy with this option when its setup and running, its only the initial setup frustration and cost as an issue.  3. Get a Walbro BKS1001 brushless pump. This is the fu*k it I'm already going PWM, might as well go full retard. This option just seems better in every way, with the only downside being cost. But I don't know much about this pump so I could be wrong.  Happy to get everyone's thoughts before I go digging around in the fuel tank again. 
×
×
  • Create New...