Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 182
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

  • 2 weeks later...

Bump.

I just bought a can of that Dupli-colour metalcast paint in the red. Will 1 can be enough? they only had one can left.

I was thinking of using Septone Automotive's Brake Caliper & Drum Paint for the primer as I already have a few cans of the stuff lying around my garage. Anybody know if this would be okay to use with the dupli-colour?

Also, anybody tried just taping up the surrounding area than applying the paint? Or would it be better off in the long run to pry the Calipers off & paint them.

Cheers

Oh & schmiddy, excellent job. If it wasn't for this thread I wouldn't even have considered doing this for myself :)

hahaha no wories mate glad to be an insperation ahahah, man i would ge the proper primer, just incase, for the sake of it, cos it would be a shame to have them on a week and the paint not take proply or something, and yeah i took the whole caliper of, not to hard a job just brake line and 2 bolts, turns out awsome that way, one warning, bleed your barakes once there back on as takin the lines of gets them full of air, and watch reaplying the caliper that brake fluid doesnt get on the newly painted caliped, that shit chews the paint straight off, good luck mate

Awesome Thanks for that Shmiddy I should be getting around to it soon. I'm going to take a few test sprays on some old brake pads I've got lying around to get an idea of the finish with the primer I'm going to use.

Cheers again buddy :(

  • 2 weeks later...

For those guys still looking for Duplicolor Metalcast, the Australian distributor is Hoits/Hoyts (damn forgotten the spelling already) and they are on 1800 021 106.

AutoOne stock Duplicolor (the normal range) but can definitely order Metalcast for you. If the storeman gives you a funny look, get them to ring Nationals or ring Hoits themselves on the 1800 number.

Cheers!

I just taped/masked mine up around the disks and they came up fine. The slight overspray on the discs disappears after about 5 minutes of driving! Taking the discs and brake lines off is a pita.

i havent seen this product(or read the complete thread) but am tipping its just a candy ..would i be right in saying its put over the top of a silver?It will also be an acrylic system which will just wash off with any type of solvent.... Another way of doing it is strip the paint off the calipers then spray etch primer on them then paint them in a silver ground coat and get a product called SEM candy concentrate in what ever colour candy you want....add the concentrate in some 2K clear and thats it....Its certainly a better way of doing it and will last as long as your paint on your car and will have to use paint stripper to get it off....To answer shans question,this system has been used for 20 odd years and we have painted complete cars/motorcycles with it...I am sure that people are aware that this is not anodising...its just an anodise look....cast cannot be anodized properly

Hi Troy

From their website, it is an enamel that you prep the surface with their pressure pack "Adhesion Promoter" for bare metal then paint with just the one type of paint.

And yep, I'm pretty sure everyone understands that it is paint and not anodizing. Still looks a treat for old calipers.

Mark

Hi mark...acrylic/single pack enamels both have the same characteristic's altho enamel will go over anything and not play up where as acrylic over single pack enamel fry's up...so having said that once you paint anything in single pack enamel your stuck with it untill you bare metal it.....both still wash off with solvent tho,which would concern me with using this product as some wheel cleaners may strip it off....

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...