Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 182
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

  • 2 weeks later...

Bump.

I just bought a can of that Dupli-colour metalcast paint in the red. Will 1 can be enough? they only had one can left.

I was thinking of using Septone Automotive's Brake Caliper & Drum Paint for the primer as I already have a few cans of the stuff lying around my garage. Anybody know if this would be okay to use with the dupli-colour?

Also, anybody tried just taping up the surrounding area than applying the paint? Or would it be better off in the long run to pry the Calipers off & paint them.

Cheers

Oh & schmiddy, excellent job. If it wasn't for this thread I wouldn't even have considered doing this for myself :)

hahaha no wories mate glad to be an insperation ahahah, man i would ge the proper primer, just incase, for the sake of it, cos it would be a shame to have them on a week and the paint not take proply or something, and yeah i took the whole caliper of, not to hard a job just brake line and 2 bolts, turns out awsome that way, one warning, bleed your barakes once there back on as takin the lines of gets them full of air, and watch reaplying the caliper that brake fluid doesnt get on the newly painted caliped, that shit chews the paint straight off, good luck mate

Awesome Thanks for that Shmiddy I should be getting around to it soon. I'm going to take a few test sprays on some old brake pads I've got lying around to get an idea of the finish with the primer I'm going to use.

Cheers again buddy :(

  • 2 weeks later...

For those guys still looking for Duplicolor Metalcast, the Australian distributor is Hoits/Hoyts (damn forgotten the spelling already) and they are on 1800 021 106.

AutoOne stock Duplicolor (the normal range) but can definitely order Metalcast for you. If the storeman gives you a funny look, get them to ring Nationals or ring Hoits themselves on the 1800 number.

Cheers!

I just taped/masked mine up around the disks and they came up fine. The slight overspray on the discs disappears after about 5 minutes of driving! Taking the discs and brake lines off is a pita.

i havent seen this product(or read the complete thread) but am tipping its just a candy ..would i be right in saying its put over the top of a silver?It will also be an acrylic system which will just wash off with any type of solvent.... Another way of doing it is strip the paint off the calipers then spray etch primer on them then paint them in a silver ground coat and get a product called SEM candy concentrate in what ever colour candy you want....add the concentrate in some 2K clear and thats it....Its certainly a better way of doing it and will last as long as your paint on your car and will have to use paint stripper to get it off....To answer shans question,this system has been used for 20 odd years and we have painted complete cars/motorcycles with it...I am sure that people are aware that this is not anodising...its just an anodise look....cast cannot be anodized properly

Hi Troy

From their website, it is an enamel that you prep the surface with their pressure pack "Adhesion Promoter" for bare metal then paint with just the one type of paint.

And yep, I'm pretty sure everyone understands that it is paint and not anodizing. Still looks a treat for old calipers.

Mark

Hi mark...acrylic/single pack enamels both have the same characteristic's altho enamel will go over anything and not play up where as acrylic over single pack enamel fry's up...so having said that once you paint anything in single pack enamel your stuck with it untill you bare metal it.....both still wash off with solvent tho,which would concern me with using this product as some wheel cleaners may strip it off....

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...