Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

Can't really tell if its always done it and I've just had the stereo on but when I trail of the throttle a little at around 90-100 in 5th I can hear a whine from the tailshaft/diff area.

Can't be sure what it is. Full throttle it goes away, just rolling with no throttle it goes away? Strange, is it possible the gear box is low on oil or something?

They should put dip sticks in gearboxes :D

any help appreciated, cheers!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/73894-r32-gtst-driveline-whine/
Share on other sites

Yeah that's typical of RB20 gearbox's. Suggest draining the oil and checking for any out-of-the-ordinary metal and if all is OK, filler up with Redline Shockproof Oil and forget about it.

With these box's the noisy parts are the revers idler gear and moreso the input shaft bearing. If you use the Redline Oil and treat em with some respect they can last a VERY long time ( with the noise ).

Hi, thought I would add to this, and perhaps shift perspective.

I have an r32 GTST auto, and have the same issue. I think its not actually to do with the gearbox but rather the diff. It would suprise me if both the manual and auto had the same issue, I think they are made by different manufaturers anyway. Mine is a Jatco 4 speed.

Other reason is, my father in law is a mechanic and he said it was diff noise, so I trust him.

I'm not too worried at the moment as its not too noisy, but, if it gets much worse I might do something about it.

Yes, tell a lie, I believe Rowdy's and mine are the diff. He got his "serviced", which seemed like an expensive fluid change on hindsight, and which did exactly SFA on the noise front.

I rarely hear mine over my exhaust anyway so it doesn't bother me. :rofl:

Change your diff oil , it only takes 2 litres or less. You will want to use Castrol EPX 80-90. Otherwise I would suggest for all of you that you get some Redline Shockproof. It is pretty much the best you can get but is fudgen expensive so I suggest getting in contact with a rep if you can and see if you can buy it through him/her.

Thanks fellas, is diff/gearbox oil changes part of the 100K service? Mine has the timing belt sticker, all new ancillaries belts and a new o2 sensor. Is it safe to assume the gearbox and diff were done too?

How much are we talking for a gearbox and diff oil change. I can't really say I feel like changing them myself.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Put a fuel pressure gauge on it. Replace the turbos. Probably completely separate issues.
    • What copper washer do you guys use on the bleeder bolts? The existing one I have I had no idea where to find it in a local store, I did buy some online but that are only 1mm thick whereas my old one is 2mm+ thick and when I put the new washer out and squeeze the top radiator hose I can hear a bit of air but not with the old one. Does this matter? The new one doesn't leak, but the inner diameter is a bit loose whereas the old one threads on the bolt.
    • Howdy all, after being out a few weeks ago on a spirited drive in my GTR I have 2 issues that oddly have appeared at the same time. Whilst accelerating quickly through the gears all of a sudden i’ve lost power at the top of third gear (below redline around 6000rpm) for no obvious reason.    From that point onwards the car has been running rich on idle, won’t really rev under load without a ton of black smoke and the odd backfire, and dying as a pull up to a set of lights unless I keep the revs up around 1500rpm. In addition when shutting down the car that same night (I was 10 minutes from home) I noticed one of the turbos was significantly noisy on wind down when shutting off the engine. After letting the car cool down overnight it starts up fine, although once it gets to temp the revs start to creep up and down, the exhaust is darker than it should be and it also sounds like it’s running rich (fat note) I’ve put a new set of plugs in it - no change, the old plugs all seemed OK with two of them being somewhat richer/fueled up than the other 3 with 1 being borderline. I’ve smoked tested the intake system via the front of the Turbos, found a split vacuum hose going to the factory boost gauge sender, which I have since replaced.  Also found another leak on the gasket coming off the rear turbo outlet, have also replaced this. After fixing both of these leaks - still have the running rich issue. I’ve also tried another pair of AFM’s - no change here After pulling off the front turbo intake pipes, there is obvious shaft play in the front turbo, which now hisses loudly on light revvs although I can’t see why this would make the car run funny even under idle. I’m curious to know why it’s running rich before I potentially replace/rebuild turbos. The car is completely stock <50,000kms  other than an exhaust. Oil and coolant are all clear. I haven’t bothered with coil packs as it looks like they won’t be the issue due to condition of the plugs. Any help appreciated as I cry myself to sleep!
    • No probs at all. I used to love trying to dig up obscure info for those in need where possible going back 20+ years on SAU.  I did have another look and couldn't come up with any closer match. I'm leaning towards those skirts in your first pic are custom fitments, cut down/extended or from another car entirely and modded to fit an R34 sedan. I would've thought someone in Japan had them and taken a photo at some stage over the last 2 decades but there's nothing. Someone out there must know surely.
×
×
  • Create New...