Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey people, im just wondering about how much kms people get per tank?

I currently have a 33gtst and can get about 350kms/55L ? give or take...

and i was wondering what other people are doing, because im interested in getting a zilla in the new future and i dont know how much fuel they go through on a easy day of driving... please help, also tell me about your mods and your driving style whether you are rough with gas or drive conservativly.... all skylines please!!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/73912-fuel-consumption/
Share on other sites

ive got a 33 gts-t and i think my car is just badly tuned, but i get about 280-300 with a mixture of normal and boost driving, and bout 350 on normal diving only per tank

-Ruffels

also i would assume a gtr would have worse fuel consumption lol, couldnt tell you how much worse though

noticed u were off boostcruising aswell :rofl: hi mate!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/73912-fuel-consumption/#findComment-1357347
Share on other sites

hehe yer i use boost cruising and sau.... :rofl:

thanks, your fuel sounds about the same as mine..... i dont know if i shoudl get the gtr or just keep the 33... i love my tail out attitude of the gtst but the 32 will just get me so much more power........... saw your car on boost ruffls... very nice, your on your L's if memory serves me right? or P's? i was blown away :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/73912-fuel-consumption/#findComment-1357356
Share on other sites

hey people, im just wondering about how much kms people get per tank?

I currently have a 33gtst and can get about 350kms/55L ? give or take...

and i was wondering what other people are doing, because im interested in getting  a zilla in the new future and i dont know how much fuel they go through on a easy day of driving... please help, also tell me about your mods and your driving style whether you are rough with gas or drive conservativly.... all skylines please!!!

Yeah, i get a similar fuel economy to you. Ive got a FMIC, exhaust, pod & 10psi. I drive fairly easy around town, but give it a bit of a boost on weekends on more open roads. my fuel economy is decided on where i drive, puttering around town it uses heaps, but i get way more out of a tank if i do more freeway driving. i dont really have any acurate figures unfortionately, cos my fuel guage sticks all the time.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/73912-fuel-consumption/#findComment-1357632
Share on other sites

Before mods I was getting around 480ks for 50 lts after EMS, 4" zoorst, pod, FMIC, & more boost I'm getting 420ks to 50lts a new oxygen sensor improved it also in this time.

where would i go to get my O2 sensore checked out? auto elcectircian or mechanical?

and how much to replace?

thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/73912-fuel-consumption/#findComment-1358980
Share on other sites

There is a thread here that convinced me to change my O2 sensor without a check, basically I was using heaps of fuel and my rear was covered in black soot i changed it and no soot and better fuel use, http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=43095 it goes into great detail have a read.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/73912-fuel-consumption/#findComment-1359691
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...