Jump to content
SAU Community

Amp selection?

GFXman

By GFXman,
in Car Audio & Electrical

 Share

Recommended Posts

GFXman Experienced

GFXman

Posted
Posted

I am looking at either the Soundstream - Picasso 4.480 or the Soundstream - Xstream XTA 480.4. Both are the same price so I'm a little confused as to which to get. Any suggestions?

And another question (forgive my noobiness).

Both amps can run at 60Wx4 @ 4ohms

could it be setup to run 2 channels at 4ohms (for my splits) and then bridge the other 2 into a single channel, say for a sub?

I don't know enough about how it all works so please feel free to enlighten me :rofl:

It's for an SW20 MR2 in which I plan to fit some Polk Momo DB6500 splits. These have a RMS of 100W. Would the choice of amp even be suitable or should I look for something with a bit more grunt, like the next model up which handles 80W x 4.

It's all so confusing, so any help would be appreciated :(

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/74069-amp-selection/
Share on other sites
d00dz Grand Master

d00dz

Posted
Posted

Jaycar have their AMPs on sale...

Are they any good...

http://www1.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?...x=&SUBCATID=595

Specifications

- Power/channel @ 4 ohm: 150 W RMS x 2

- Power/channel @ 2 ohm: 230 W RMS x 2

- Power output (Bridged 4ohm): 450 W RMS x 1

- Frequency Response: 20-30Khz ± 1db

- Total harmonic distortion: Less than 0.08% @ 1kHz

- Input sensitivity: 200mV to 3.5V

- S/N ratio: Better than 80db @ 1kHz

- Quiescent current: 0.86A

- Maximum current: 56A. - Damping factor: 136

- Size 402(L) x 266(W) x 57(H)mm

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/74069-amp-selection/#findComment-1361988
Share on other sites
grandmasterb Grand Master

grandmasterb

Posted
Posted
Jaycar have their AMPs on sale...

Are they any good...

http://www1.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?...x=&SUBCATID=595

Specifications

- Power/channel @ 4 ohm: 150 W RMS x 2

- Power/channel @ 2 ohm: 230 W RMS x 2

- Power output (Bridged 4ohm): 450 W RMS x 1

- Frequency Response: 20-30Khz ± 1db

- Total harmonic distortion: Less than 0.08% @ 1kHz

- Input sensitivity: 200mV to 3.5V

- S/N ratio: Better than 80db @ 1kHz

- Quiescent current: 0.86A

- Maximum current: 56A. - Damping factor: 136

- Size 402(L) x 266(W) x 57(H)mm

You get what you pay for like anything these days, but when working to a budget the Jaycar range can be good. I have a 2x100w Jaycar amp that i use for my subs. Wired them up in series on a 2ohm load and i can't complain.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/74069-amp-selection/#findComment-1363407
Share on other sites
DivHunter Grand Master

DivHunter

Posted
Posted

I got a XTA720.4 at MAS for $499 :P it is only running the stock fronts and a Pioneer 305c sub atm but it is incredible the difference it and the DEX P88-R + DEQ9200 make. Can't wait to get the door pods done so the Focal Utopia's can go in and then get a better sub + mono block and run the Focals semi active or fully active adding an XTA 2 channel as well.

The Picasso's are not Aust. dilivered and have no warranty here. If you look closely at the specs the XTAs seem a bit better too but they are so close I would go with the XTA to have the backing of an Aust delivered product.

The XTA amp will not disappoint despite what some audiophiles say about SoundStream's new products (not bad just not as good as they used to be).

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/74069-amp-selection/#findComment-1363450
Share on other sites
GFXman Experienced

GFXman

Posted
  • Author
Posted

yeah i have no doubt that the soundstream amp won't be the best around, but I'm no audiophile. I just want a half decent system that isn't cheap and nasty... im not trying to shake windows, or impress people on the footpath :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/74069-amp-selection/#findComment-1363492
Share on other sites
grandmasterb Grand Master

grandmasterb

Posted
Posted
yeah i have no doubt that the soundstream amp won't be the best around, but I'm no audiophile. I just want a half decent system that isn't cheap and nasty... im not trying to shake windows, or impress people on the footpath :P

At the end of the day, do what you feel is right and what suits your needs. You dont ahve to go and spend thousands on a stereo, think of what mods you can do to the car instead. A basic 4 channel amp thats say around 60-80WX4, a set of components up front and a sub if it interests u to ahve a bit of bass there as well.

My system isn't the best getting around and i did it all for under $1500.

HU: Pioneer P5750MP

Fronts: Pioneer TS-C 1655 splits

Subs: 2 MTX Thunder (with custom tube box)

Amps: 2x100W Jaycar response and a Pioneer 4x80W

I also bought all my cabeling and materials to SD my front doors and had change left as well.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/74069-amp-selection/#findComment-1363526
Share on other sites
DivHunter Grand Master

DivHunter

Posted
Posted
yeah i have no doubt that the soundstream amp won't be the best around, but I'm no audiophile. I just want a half decent system that isn't cheap and nasty... im not trying to shake windows, or impress people on the footpath :rofl:

SoundStream do make one of the best amps, just with a $7999rrp :( the Human Reign 4 1600W RMS of pure class A and they look awesome *drool* anyways. Jaycar by all accounts are excellent bang for buck.

You could always have a look around at second hand gear as I have picked up;

DEX-P88-R H/U

DEQ-9200 DSP

Focal Utopia 165W3

for well under just the cost of the Utopias :rofl: everything in great nic and perfect working order. Add the XTA at 1/2 rrp and I am not doing too bad at all.

Have a lok around you never know what you may find :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/74069-amp-selection/#findComment-1363630
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • sinn3r
      R34 Skyline climate control unit transistor

      By sinn3r · Posted

      Hi all,   long time listener, first time caller   i was wondering if anyone can help me identify a transistor on the climate control unit board that decided to fry itself   I've circled it in the attached photo   any help would be appreciated
    • Kinkstaah
      Blue slip

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I mean, I got two VASS engineers to refuse to cert my own coilovers stating those very laws. Appendix B makes it pretty clear what it considers 'Variable Suspension' to be. In my lived experience they can't certify something that isn't actually in the list as something that requires certification. In the VASS engineering checklist they have to complete (LS3/NCOP11) and sign on there is nothing there. All the references inside NCOP11 state that if it's variable by the driver that height needs to maintain 100mm while the car is in motion. It states the car is lowered lowering blocks and other types of things are acceptable. Dialling out a shock is about as 'user adjustable' as changing any other suspension component lol. I wanted to have it signed off to dissuade HWP and RWC testers to state the suspension is legal to avoid having this discussion with them. The real problem is that Police and RWC/Pink/Blue slip people will say it needs engineering, and the engineers will state it doesn't need engineering. It is hugely irritating when aforementioned people get all "i know the rules mate feck off" when they don't, and the actual engineers are pleasant as all hell and do know the rules. Cars failing RWC for things that aren't listed in the RWC requirements is another thing here entirely!
    • GTSBoy
      Best place to order Authetic R32 Parts in Japan

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I don't. I mean, mine's not a GTR, but it is a 32 with a lot of GTR stuff on it. But regardless, I typically buy from local suppliers. Getting stuff from Japan is seldom worth the pain. Buying from RHDJapan usually ends up in the final total of your basket being about double what you thought it would be, after all the bullshit fees and such are added on.
    • GTSBoy
      Ethanol Content Sensor - Always at 11%?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      The hydrocarbon component of E10 can be shittier, and is in fact, shittier, than that used in normal 91RON fuel. That's because the octane boost provided by the ethanol allows them to use stuff that doesn't make the grade without the help. The 1c/L saving typically available on E10 is going to be massively overridden by the increased consumption caused by the ethanol and the crappier HC (ie the HCs will be less dense, meaning that there will definitely be less energy per unit volume than for more dense HCs). That is one of the reasons why P98 will return better fuel consumption than 91 does, even with the ignition timing completely fixed. There is more energy per unit volume because the HCs used in 98 are higher density than in the lawnmower fuel.
    • GTSBoy
      Blue slip

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      No, I'd suggest that that is the checklist for pneumatic/hydraulic adjustable systems. I would say, based on my years of reading and complying with Australian Standards and similar regulations, that the narrow interpretation of Clause 3.2 b would be the preferred/expected/intended one, by the author, and those using the standard. Wishful thinking need not apply.
×
×
  • Create New...