Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have 235/40 17" for front and 255/45 17" for rears.

I have a stock space saver wheel in the boot. Now I was wondering If ever I do have a flat tyre, and I use the spacer saver will it work?

I mean the current tyres are 17" and spacer saver is 16" and its very very thin..

So do I need it?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/74185-space-saver-wheel/
Share on other sites

I have 235/40 17" for front and 255/45 17" for rears.

I have a stock space saver wheel in the boot. Now I was wondering If ever I do have a flat tyre, and I use the spacer saver will it work?

I mean the current tyres are 17" and spacer saver is 16" and its very very thin..

So do I need it?

Width is irrelevant, it is diameter that is important so the diff (and ATTESSA in 4wd's) doesn't overheat due to the rotational speed difference. A 225/50/16 is effectively the same diameters as a 205/60/15, and a 225/45/17, and a 245/40/17, and a 245/35/18, and a 235/30/19 etc

I am hoping that you have 235/45/17 on the front and 255/40/17 on the rear, otherwise you already have a diameter difference that will make it hard to carry one spare that suites both. Not an issue on the front of a 2wd, but certainly an issue all round on a 4wd and on the rear of a 2wd.

Hope that helps:cheers:

Yea I got them mixed up, 235/45/17 on the front and 255/40/17 on the rear.

Not sure what the stock spare tyre is. (Will check later).

But im completating will the spare wheel come in handly? (since the wheels are quite large compared to the space saver) or ill just remove it and put some subs/amps.

Don't believe it's legal, not to carry a spare. I'm not absolutely sure of that, check with RTA ['phone call'.] Even on the rear, it will be OK if you use care to drive s l o w l y, and a minimum distance. If necessary, stop for a bit ,say. every 1/2 to3/4 Kl. Better this than stuck completely in some place and in a Mobile dead spot. Will definately be OK if you use common sense. The diff does no more than it does when cornering, and on a track,the diff works a great deal of the time.

Don't believe it's legal, not to carry a spare. I'm not absolutely sure of that, check with RTA ['phone call'.]  Even on the rear, it will be OK if you use care to drive s l o w l y, and a minimum distance.  If necessary, stop for a bit ,say. every 1/2 to3/4 Kl.   Better this than stuck completely in some place and in a Mobile dead spot.  Will definately be OK if you use common sense.  The diff does no more than it does when cornering, and on a track,the diff works a great deal of the time.

New BMW's don't have a spare, so it's certainly not illegal.:cheers:

hmm cool, means i can take out the spare and maybe get that welding? what is that stuff mmmgtir?

all i can say is if u have this stuff make sure that if it leaks its not going to be able to leak on anything. heat, time, and some loose heavy objects in the boot of my old car managed to make a bit of a mess.

why do you want to take the spare off for? not like you need the extra boot space.

You can put it on any side of the car you want. If its the difference between driving home at ~80kph with a slight lean to one of the corners, as opposed to paying for a flatbed to tow you home. Just leave it where it is and be glad you have a spare and use it when you get a flat. Not like it weighs that much anyway.

just out of curiosity, does anyone spare fot over their front brakes ?????

cause i ain't too keen on having a front flat then having to pull a tyre off the back and put onto the front then put the space saver on the back seems like a lot fo messing around, would a spacer solve my problem ???

People are asking silly questions.

The space-saver is designed for your car. Its designed to fit on front or the back of the car, and on either the left or the right. Yes it clears the calipers, and the rolling diameter of the wheel is unaffected, if you DO have larger back tyres with a larger diameter, its not like you will be driving down the road with one of the wheels not touching the ground because of difference in wheel sizes.

I have used the space saver on my car many times already, front and back, left and right.

For the record,

After completely shredding a 265/35/18 rear ( on my GTSt ) I travelled about 250kms from just north of Nelsons Bay to Sydney on the spacesaver. After being advised not to go above 80km/hr by the local tyre mob ( who couldnt find me a suitable replacement ) I gave the spacesaver about 36psi and headed off at a brisk 100-110km/hr down the freeway. I stopped every hour to check the condition of the tyre and ensure the pressure was holding, but it never missed a beat and got me home in a damn decent time. And honestly, I think the tyre looks better for the run. No issues with treadwear, car handled fine at the higher speeds, and I now have complete confidence that it is more than up to the job.

In short, dont underestimate the quality of the spacesaver, as said above, its designed to be used on your car ( it does look a little rediculous from behind but you get over that when you start overtaking slower cars ).

Z.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Great work! Give it a clean up with some Emery paper, and I'd run a thread die over the threads too to clean them up. It will make reinstall much easier, and also life easier for the next time it needs to come out.
    • I'm not a fan of high humidity, it's one reason I don't mind being further inland out Ipswich, except the last 3 odd years, the drought broke, and it won't stop raining, which is making the humidity nearly unbearable when the rains are in during summer! For me, my body hates the cold, once the cold sets into my body, I'm totally screwed. I end up with severe muscle spasm in my back/shoulder muscles, and it feels like someone is trying to tear the muscles out. I have no issues with it getting stupid hot, so long as the humidity goes away. So the last 3 years as above, have been woeful! Ha ha. However, June 1st, and I'm only just converting from shorts and a tee, to long pants and a t shirt. And that's mainly as it's a bit wet and miserable and I wanted to work on a car.
    • I much prefer colder weather to hot weather, and especially prefer cold to hot and humid, Goulburn does gets pretty warm in the hotter months, but, I've found the humidity there is not as painful as even Sydney, the humidity up north is to oppressing for this old rooster  In saying this, it does get rather "nippy" in Goulburn for early morning, late in the evening walks, but nothing that a layer or two, some thermal gloves, and a beanie doesn't fix to make it an enjoyable experience, which is much more bearable to me than the oppression of heat and humidity,  especially at night when your trying to sleep If I recall correctly, a "wise man" once said that the "Southern Tablelands" was gods country, and I will not argue that point with him for the fear of a "permaban" LOL In car part related news: My intake is currently in Botany getting processed for the last leg of its shipping journey to my door   
    • Had a go at the stuck crush tube this afternoon. Tried things like grips and a chain wrench first but wouldn't just twist straight off. So got to work with a drill. Started small and kept a depth stop on to make sure I didn't drill into the bolt. Made a line of drill holes all the way up and enlarged them. Then a combination of chisel and Dremel to split it all the way up. Levered the split to get oil in there and eventually it gave a bit while levering. Worked it back and forth with loads more oil till it was spinning freely, then with grips I could work it downwards and off. And no significant damage to the bolt (not by me anyway - just the 27 years of rust)
    • Well, I'm tired. I'm tired because about 4PM yesterday, before today's appointment someone immediately bought my bumper. They couldn't get it any other day as they're on the way back to NSW. So I had to do that big GTR conversion I had been planning. Unfortunately, the information on SAU about what you need and how this is done is incomplete. So what should be a simple bolt on affair, yeah, it's not. Did you know if you use all GTR items the bonnet won't close? This little manuever sent me into about 1am the night before trying to dodge a way to get it closed. I will have to revisit this in the next few days  - or maybe not, I may let a body shop figure it out. It all needs to come up and my motivation to pull the bumper off is low. It also seems to hit things in the bay where the GTT bonnet didn't. Yes I used 100% new OEM GTR items. Today, I had the joy of driving to the dyno looking like this: Given I had roughed in the fuel and given sensible but pretty conservative timing, I didn't really bet on having the car drive out any real difference than when it drove in. Sadly due to a miscommunication and laptop fun and games (and almost bricking the dongle, prayers and firmware updates indeed), I ended up using HP Tuner credits to licence the car that was already licenced. So in the end my laptop was used. It turns out my butt dyno is still well calibrated after all this time. The 325kw was on 74% Ethanol, the 313kw line was on 98. The other line is the 'before' line which was 281kw. While the numbers are pretty low, they're pretty in line with what you'd expect. Even if US dynos bump the whole result up about 50KW, gaining 10-15% is similar gains.  The curve of the cam is pretty much spot on with what was discussed as well. All this said, it still feels bad to not see the number you secretly want to see. Even if the car drove great beforehand, and I knew pretty confidently the car would drive out much the same way it drove in due to the nature of a wellish dialled in LS1 not gaining much if anything at all from being tuned from where it was. As expected, the car isn't particularly sensitive to running it at anywhere between 12.0 and 13.0 - And the initial timing at 20deg and 12.0 made 308KW. So 3 degrees of timing, and leaning it out to 12.7 for 5kw, anything above stopped giving any benefit until E85 (which has an additional 2 deg as before). Car itself behaved entirely fine. I found out that 100C = 1.15V! IAT at about 7pm was 19C. I might mess with the bonnet mounting.. but given the REO NEEDS TO BE CHOPPED TO FIT A GTR BAR this is possibly something I may leave gathering (more) dust until it returns to paint jail.
×
×
  • Create New...