Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have 235/40 17" for front and 255/45 17" for rears.

I have a stock space saver wheel in the boot. Now I was wondering If ever I do have a flat tyre, and I use the spacer saver will it work?

I mean the current tyres are 17" and spacer saver is 16" and its very very thin..

So do I need it?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/74185-space-saver-wheel/
Share on other sites

I have 235/40 17" for front and 255/45 17" for rears.

I have a stock space saver wheel in the boot. Now I was wondering If ever I do have a flat tyre, and I use the spacer saver will it work?

I mean the current tyres are 17" and spacer saver is 16" and its very very thin..

So do I need it?

Width is irrelevant, it is diameter that is important so the diff (and ATTESSA in 4wd's) doesn't overheat due to the rotational speed difference. A 225/50/16 is effectively the same diameters as a 205/60/15, and a 225/45/17, and a 245/40/17, and a 245/35/18, and a 235/30/19 etc

I am hoping that you have 235/45/17 on the front and 255/40/17 on the rear, otherwise you already have a diameter difference that will make it hard to carry one spare that suites both. Not an issue on the front of a 2wd, but certainly an issue all round on a 4wd and on the rear of a 2wd.

Hope that helps:cheers:

Yea I got them mixed up, 235/45/17 on the front and 255/40/17 on the rear.

Not sure what the stock spare tyre is. (Will check later).

But im completating will the spare wheel come in handly? (since the wheels are quite large compared to the space saver) or ill just remove it and put some subs/amps.

Don't believe it's legal, not to carry a spare. I'm not absolutely sure of that, check with RTA ['phone call'.] Even on the rear, it will be OK if you use care to drive s l o w l y, and a minimum distance. If necessary, stop for a bit ,say. every 1/2 to3/4 Kl. Better this than stuck completely in some place and in a Mobile dead spot. Will definately be OK if you use common sense. The diff does no more than it does when cornering, and on a track,the diff works a great deal of the time.

Don't believe it's legal, not to carry a spare. I'm not absolutely sure of that, check with RTA ['phone call'.]  Even on the rear, it will be OK if you use care to drive s l o w l y, and a minimum distance.  If necessary, stop for a bit ,say. every 1/2 to3/4 Kl.   Better this than stuck completely in some place and in a Mobile dead spot.  Will definately be OK if you use common sense.  The diff does no more than it does when cornering, and on a track,the diff works a great deal of the time.

New BMW's don't have a spare, so it's certainly not illegal.:cheers:

hmm cool, means i can take out the spare and maybe get that welding? what is that stuff mmmgtir?

all i can say is if u have this stuff make sure that if it leaks its not going to be able to leak on anything. heat, time, and some loose heavy objects in the boot of my old car managed to make a bit of a mess.

why do you want to take the spare off for? not like you need the extra boot space.

You can put it on any side of the car you want. If its the difference between driving home at ~80kph with a slight lean to one of the corners, as opposed to paying for a flatbed to tow you home. Just leave it where it is and be glad you have a spare and use it when you get a flat. Not like it weighs that much anyway.

just out of curiosity, does anyone spare fot over their front brakes ?????

cause i ain't too keen on having a front flat then having to pull a tyre off the back and put onto the front then put the space saver on the back seems like a lot fo messing around, would a spacer solve my problem ???

People are asking silly questions.

The space-saver is designed for your car. Its designed to fit on front or the back of the car, and on either the left or the right. Yes it clears the calipers, and the rolling diameter of the wheel is unaffected, if you DO have larger back tyres with a larger diameter, its not like you will be driving down the road with one of the wheels not touching the ground because of difference in wheel sizes.

I have used the space saver on my car many times already, front and back, left and right.

For the record,

After completely shredding a 265/35/18 rear ( on my GTSt ) I travelled about 250kms from just north of Nelsons Bay to Sydney on the spacesaver. After being advised not to go above 80km/hr by the local tyre mob ( who couldnt find me a suitable replacement ) I gave the spacesaver about 36psi and headed off at a brisk 100-110km/hr down the freeway. I stopped every hour to check the condition of the tyre and ensure the pressure was holding, but it never missed a beat and got me home in a damn decent time. And honestly, I think the tyre looks better for the run. No issues with treadwear, car handled fine at the higher speeds, and I now have complete confidence that it is more than up to the job.

In short, dont underestimate the quality of the spacesaver, as said above, its designed to be used on your car ( it does look a little rediculous from behind but you get over that when you start overtaking slower cars ).

Z.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Let's be honest, most of the people designing parts like the above, aren't engineers. Sometimes they come from disciplines that gives them more qualitative feel for design than quantitive, however, plenty of them have just picked up a license to Fusion and started making things. And that's the honest part about the majority of these guys making parts like that, they don't have huge R&D teams and heaps of time or experience working out the numbers on it. Shit, most smaller teams that do have real engineers still roll with "yeah, it should be okay, and does the job, let's make them and just see"...   The smaller guys like KiwiCNC, aren't the likes of Bosch etc with proper engineering procedures, and oversights, and sign off. As such, it's why they can produce a product to market a lot quicker, but it always comes back to, question it all.   I'm still not a fan of that bolt on piece. Why not just machine it all in one go? With the right design it's possible. The only reason I can see is if they want different heights/length for the tie rod to bolt to. And if they have the cncs themselves,they can easily offer that exact feature, and just machine it all in one go. 
    • The roof is wrapped
    • This is how I last did this when I had a master cylinder fail and introduce air. Bleed before first stage, go oh shit through first stage, bleed at end of first stage, go oh shit through second stage, bleed at end of second stage, go oh shit through third stage, bleed at end of third stage, go oh shit through fourth stage, bleed at lunch, go oh shit through fifth stage, bleed at end of fifth stage, go oh shit through sixth stage....you get the idea. It did come good in the end. My Topdon scan tool can bleed the HY51 and V37, but it doesn't have a consult connector and I don't have an R34 to check that on. I think finding a tool in an Australian workshop other than Nissan that can bleed an R34 will be like rocking horse poo. No way will a generic ODB tool do it.
    • Hmm. Perhaps not the same engineers. The OE Nissan engineers did not forsee a future with spacers pushing the tie rod force application further away from the steering arm and creating that torque. The failures are happening since the advent of those things, and some 30 years after they designed the uprights. So latent casting deficiencies, 30+ yrs of wear and tear, + unexpected usage could quite easily = unforeseen failure. Meanwhile, the engineers who are designing the billet CNC or fabricated uprights are also designing, for the same parts makers, the correction tie rod ends. And they are designing and building these with motorsport (or, at the very least, the meth addled antics of drifters) in mind. So I would hope (in fact, I would expect) that their design work included the offset of that steering force. Doesn't mean that it is not totally valid to ask the question of them, before committing $$.
    • The downside of this is when you try to track the car, as soon as you hit ABS you get introduced to a unbled system. I want to avoid this. I do not want to bleed/flush/jack up the car twice just to bleed the f**kin car.
×
×
  • Create New...