Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

At what point do I need to upgrage the rods in my RB26?

The plan is for 350rwkw standard crank, forgies and unsure of rods.

how will the standard ones hold up?

How good are the eagle rods and what do they retail for here in Aus?

I can get crower rods from the states for US$1100, and carrillo's for US $1200 - $US 1800 (pro A vs pro H). (plus GST, freight customs etc)

Is it worth the bucks to upgrade the rods.

I've done a forum search and had a read and the big HP guys all use aftermarket rods but where do we draw the line?

Pistons.... Arias seem to be the go from what I've read, but always interested in more opinions.

WTB

GTR R33 standard crank in good condition

rods? maybe

new pistons

if you can afford it go the aftermarket rods

i was after the same sort of figure 350rwkw and was told the originals shotpeened would handle that no probs so i went with that.... But in the future when 350 isnt enough...(always looking 4 more) the "upgraded" rods will handle it!!

my 2 cents.

Im after the same figure. Im using the standard (shotpeaned) rods and Arias pistons. I was told if you keep the same redline, rods arent necessary especially for 350rwkw. Thats what ive been told anyway.

Shaun.

When I built mine, I was aiming for around the same mark. I decided that the wife would divorce me if I spent too much on the rebuild, so the rods stayed standard, but had them cryo treated along with the block, crank and cradle. Made 352rwhp before the exhaust strangled the deal (then I proceeded to write it off 2 hrs later...but that's a completely other story). Be sure to have the engine completed balanced and blueprinted in the rebuilt process.

Cheers

Brendan

From personal experience, shotpeened stock rods are fine for 350rwkw. We pushed my stock shot peened rods to 446rwkw and then when we did my rebuild, I went with Nismo rods which have held 600+ awkw.

For 350rwkw, all you really need are forged pistons for a bit of detenation security.

From personal experience, shotpeened stock rods are fine for 350rwkw.  We pushed my stock shot peened rods to 446rwkw and then when we did my rebuild,  I went with Nismo rods which have held 600+ awkw.

For 350rwkw, all you really need are forged pistons for a bit of detenation security.

i agreed, i have been running my std internals at 397rwkw for 18months know and know of others running more. :(

also concide Wiseco pistons ~$1250 good price for a good piston.

Std GTR rods are good at 400- 450kw@wheels and up to 9000rpm.....above that level we usually replace em with something better, but in saying that, we have never broken one either....they are a short, tough little rod....

:D 400 for the next car show me thinks

  • 1 month later...
Whilst I would agree that GTR rods are tough, I did manage to bend three rods in mine at only 350rwkw, just worth keeping in mind:D

Any other causal factors to contemplate there Paul? Gudgeon binding or oilflow problems?

Eagle don't make a rod for the RB26 unfortunately, only SR20 and VG30. The Wiseco pistons are listed at 8.0-8.4 in the catalogue, the last set we used came out at 8.6 by the time everything was machined and using a 1mm head gasket.

We used a set of REV rods in the last 26 we did. They aren't a bad looking rod, pretty similar to an argo in design. I heard they are made in China, but then so are Eagles and they are a fantastic rod for the price. We had a problem with a binding conrod bolt in one of the REV rods but UAS replaced it straight away. It's a pretty common problem if the bolts arent lubed properly when the rods are assembled at the factory. They use ARP bolts and come finished on bottom size on the big and little end tunnels, we had to finish them to size which is a good thing if you have the machine to do it as you can get the clearances spot on. A lot of conrod manufacturers do the same thing as it saves having to close the rod up to get it back to the size you want. For the dollars ($1500ish)they are a nice rod.

One rod I'm really impressed with is the ones PAR make in Sydney. We've got an EJ25 here at the moment that runs 400ish RWKW and the rods look like brand new, the tunnels are still round and even the small end bush isn't hammered out. I think We'll use them from now on as they're Australian made and as good as anything I've seen. A bit more pricey than the REV rods though.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My guesstimate, with no real numbers to back it up, is it won't effect it greatly at all.its not a huge change in position, and I can't see the air flow changing from in turbulence that much based on distance, and what's in front of it. Johnny and Brad may have some more numbers to share from experience though.
    • Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
    • Pull codes via the self-diagnosis procedure. As far as I can tell this is just a sign of transmission issues but not a code unto itself.
×
×
  • Create New...